Heat n Glow 6000TRI-LP will not stay lit

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samurai sam

New Member
Dec 22, 2021
Rust Belt
Short version: The fireplace will burn for some amount of random time, which these days is generally less than 15 minutes. The thermopile's voltage drops from ~500mV to ~20mV when the burner ignites, so I ordered a new one. The local dealer's tech is out with some kind of health issue, return date unknown. Assuming I'm on the right track, I'd like to install it myself, but finding good, clear info on the process has proven elusive so far.

Specifically, how much disassembly is required to do the job? If I need to loosen any gas lines then I will pay for the service.

You do NOT need to mess with any gas lines
Remove the glass.
Remove the log set.
Look into the slots in the burner. You will
see the 1/4"hex screws securing it. Remove them
with a 1/4" driver.
The TRI only has one burner, so you
should be able to pull the burner towards
the front & lift it slightly to disengage it from
the air shutter.
Once the burner is out, you will have access to
the pilot assembly.
There will be an RTV silicone grommet on the floor
of the fireplace where the Thermopile passes thru.
That grommet needs to be removed.
The thermopile is held in the pilot bracket with a 7/16" (11mm)
nut. Loosen that nut & disconnect the TP & TP-TH screws on
the valve terminal block.
Remove the pilot assembly bracket screws with a 1/4" hex driver.
The Thermopile should come right out.
Install the new TP.
Reverse the steps & & make sure the Grommet is on the wires.
The red & white wires can be attached to either screw on the terminal block.
reinstall the burner, making sure the burner tube is in the air shutter.
Let me know if you run into any issues.
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OK, not quite smooth sailing.
You didn't mention removing the refractory but the burner was trapped by the side pieces so I took it all out.


When it came to the grommet, it looked nothing like the well formed grommets for the other two holes but instead was just a blob, a bit brighter in color and taller than the grommets. I assumed someone had been here before (maybe to replace the piezo) and I figured they had used some high temp RTV to replace the grommet, so I began trimming it away.


When I finished destroying whatever it was I was whittling on (it DID look like a grommet from the bottom side) I was left with this:


At this point I was stumped for a bit on how to proceed until I realized the nut doesn't have to go through the hole--the old unit and wire can be removed from topside and the new one installed the same way. After removing the bracket screws, I was reluctant to pull up on the bracket to free the old thermopile because of putting stress on the gas line(s) but I looked under and saw they had thankfully allowed for that when the lines were run.

So now I have the new unit in place, but no grommet. Questions:
  1. Can I use the red RTV or do I need to order a grommet from H&G or elsewhere?
  2. The nut on the new TP is not brass; does it need a bit of anti-seize?
  3. Should I reassemble fully (minus the log set) to test?
  4. Any other tips or cautions?
Thanks again so much for leading me through this.
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Sorry about the refractories. My Bad.
You CAN use RTV, It's an acceptable replacement.
Just make sure the hole in the floor is completely sealed.
Those grommets dry out over time & disintegrate.
Anti-seize can't hurt, but isn't necessary.
Replace the burner & make sure the air shutter is correctly set.
Then fire it up.
Replace the burner & make sure the air shutter is correctly set.
Then fire it up.
About the air shutters, any guidance on that? The info I have for the log set appears to call for 1/4 inch on log 1 (but it's wide open), and I have nothing on the primary burner shutter. It's set at a bit more than 3/8.

While we're at it, the flue restrictor was never installed. I have instructions for how to set it, but I can only guess at the height of the flue run, maybe about 30'.
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The air shutter openings should be specified in the manual, as well as the restrictor requirements.
Generally, for LPG, the air shutters are wide open. If you close them down, the flames will be orange
with black tips & you will get sooting on the glass & logs...
If your pilot flames are agitated enough to cause them to move off the thermocouple & thermopile,
then you need the restrictor installed. 30 feet of chimney height could allow too much cold air to
drop into the firebox & that will definitely agitate your pilot.
OK, well after a long delay I'm back with my report.

After replacing the thermopile the initial results were a mixed bag. The first 3 or 4 burn sessions were characterized by a ~40 minute burn time and then a flameout (burner and pilot), after which I would relight and experience an extended burn with no flameout.

After that, I've now logged 40+ hours of burns with sessions ranging from 2 to 5 hours, all of which were terminated normally by the user flipping the off switch. So yay (so far).

Is there an explanation for this?

The trouble-shooting guide for this model listed a leaking glass seal as a reason for not staying lit, but how likely is that? The reason I ask is that I did not put the ember material back in place before I began the testing, and now I'm half afraid to touch anything, i.e. remove the glass, for fear of causing myself a problem.


EDIT: Re the restrictor plate, I've watched the pilot on a couple of very windy/chilly days and seen no agitation. The pilot going out without the burner being lit has never been a problem.
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Now I'm getting ready to replace the thermocouple. Unlike the thermopile, the thermocouple came with a grommet. Is there any trick to installing it or is it just a general PITA?
No tricks, other than to loosen the retainer nut on the existing t-pile before you remove the screws holding the pilot assembly from the base of the unit. After you get the new one in, hand tighten the retainer nut, reattach the pilot assembly, & then secure the t-pile.
Ok, thanks. My post was not as clear as it should have been. I was actually asking about fitting the new grommet... I've been frustrated by grommets in other applications in the past.
Those grommets usually have a small slit & hole in them, with a slot around the OD. Slide the T-pile wires down thru the hole in the bottom of the firebox. Slip the grommet onto the the T-pile wires & press the grommet down into the hole. The bottom half should be in the valve cavity & the upper should be in the firebox. Is that what you need to know?