My Mother In Law recently passed away and we acquired her home in Northern Arizona. It came with a Heatilator pellet stove which was working great until last week. Seems as though the auger motor is no longer working. This stove was installed in 1990 and I need help locating a new motor. I called a company in Prescott Arizona, and they told me that Heatilator only made this stove for a year or two. The numbers off the motor are: ECM 5817 9/90 120V 60 Hz 1 RPM .55 AMP MOD 734. The model number from the stove is SX. Growing up in Phoenix, my husband and I know nothing about pellet stoves. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Heatilator Pellet Stove Auger Motor
- Thread starter mickelle
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heat seeker
Minister of Fire
Are you sure the motor is bad? There are several factors that could keep the motor from running, even if the motor is good.
I didn't find much info on older Heatilator or ID ECM 5817 auger motor.Test the motor by connecting with a patch cord. If it is stuck you might be able to use WD40 to free up the bearings. What style motor is it? Many stoves use same style AC gear motor, different RPM's and rotation and shaft size. If the motor is dead, do a google search for pellet stove auger motors and see if you can find a match. Perhaps someone else will have direct knowledge.
heat seeker
Minister of Fire
If the motor has brushes, it's probably a 12 volt motor, so don't use a patch cord on it. The motor will probably state its voltage right on it somewhere.
A patch cord, the information you provided says it is a 1 RPM 115 volt ac auger motor which is a standard.
What follows is dangerous and can cause death, do not attempt unless you have experience with household electrical circuits carrying lethal amounts of power
You disconnect the auger motor's electrical wires and replace them with the leads from a suicide cord (old lamp or extension cord that has just the plug and a length of wire.) You strip the insulation off the ends of the cord to allow it to be attached to the terminals on the auger motor. This is a dangerous operation and should not be done unless you know what you are doing.
Remember the stove needs to be off, cold, and unplugged you remove the wires going to the auger motor first and then attach the patch cord, once the patch cord is attached and you are certain that the exposed wire ends are not touching any metal you can plug the cord into the wall outlet. Do not run the motor this way for more than a couple minutes.
If the motor turns it is good.
What follows is dangerous and can cause death, do not attempt unless you have experience with household electrical circuits carrying lethal amounts of power
You disconnect the auger motor's electrical wires and replace them with the leads from a suicide cord (old lamp or extension cord that has just the plug and a length of wire.) You strip the insulation off the ends of the cord to allow it to be attached to the terminals on the auger motor. This is a dangerous operation and should not be done unless you know what you are doing.
Remember the stove needs to be off, cold, and unplugged you remove the wires going to the auger motor first and then attach the patch cord, once the patch cord is attached and you are certain that the exposed wire ends are not touching any metal you can plug the cord into the wall outlet. Do not run the motor this way for more than a couple minutes.
If the motor turns it is good.
St_Earl
Minister of Fire
Actually St_Earl I'm more inclined to go with a mess in the stove and the vacuum switch not closing than either an auger jam or bad auger motor. I'm certain that this is where heat seeker was going.
Whats in the wiring schematic? If its a 1990 or later? It may not have a vac switch? Most older units were positive pressure systems.
I didn't look through the manual (yet)? But safety features were nill back then.
I didn't look through the manual (yet)? But safety features were nill back then.
I haven't found a manual for that stove yet, but even some positive pressure stoves had vacuum switches (if there is pressure in the firebox there is a vacuum on the air intake side) and some vacuum switches also have a pressure switch side to them. Where it gets connected is sometimes on the exhaust after the combustion blower. Different setups on different stoves, enough so things were interesting. If the OP has a manual a scan and upload would be of help to other folks who happen to run across one of these in the future.
Could one this old have a hopper kill switch? We just had a poster with a bad connection that caused the auger to stop working.
heat seeker
Minister of Fire
St_Earl
Minister of Fire
heat seeker
Minister of Fire
It's a matter of checking the easy and likely things first. No one said not to look for an auger jam.
Any other info on the Unit? Not finding any info out there?
Any pics would also help a lot. Pics of inside/back of unit? And front of unit, to get a good I.D.
Any pics would also help a lot. Pics of inside/back of unit? And front of unit, to get a good I.D.
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