Is it necessary to have a mixing valve on a heatmaster g series to limit cold return water. It does have a circulator dedicated to mixing internal water. Wouldn't that accomplish the same thing.
Heatmaster G series 3 way mixing valve
- Thread starter Rugar
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hondaracer2oo4
Feeling the Heat
Heatmaster has gone the direction of adding the mixing pump onto the boiler instead of requiring return protection via a three way valve. I think that the mixing pump helps if the boiler gets some cold water return but I think there is no substitute for a return protection valve. With all that being said the g series is an outdoor boiler that typically operates 24/7. Since that is the case the boiler won't be heating a store of water and then going cold waiting until the next time it is fired. Operating this way causes you to have cold water return to the boiler until your storage gets up above 140. The g series running 24/7 shouldn't drop below 160 unless the fire goes out. With proper flow to the heat load you shouldn't see more than a 20 degree delta t which means you should be above 140 all the time and the mixing pump helps to mix it if it does.
Thanks for that reply. That's what I was thinking but wanted to make sure. Now I need to figure out how to add a line into boiler room for heat and double as an over run. Also it needs to be separate via flat plate or sidearm for antifreeze. I probably should start a new thread for that
hondaracer2oo4
Feeling the Heat
I take it that you are planning to run glycol in the g100? Why? The boiler room in the house or boiler room outside??? This is an open boiler and really shouldn't climb in temp very much in ththe case of a power outage.
Not planning to have glycol in boiler itself or house just a loop for supplemental heat in garage. I did start another thread about install questions. Im really missing the simplicity of having a pressurized wood boiler like my old eko 25. Plumbing seemed simpler to me.
hondaracer2oo4
Feeling the Heat
Is the g100 in the garage that is going to be heated? You could just put the garage loop on a timer so that it circulates the water every hour for a minute so it keeps it from freezing. If you had a pressurized boiler and you wanted a loop like the garage with antifreeze than you would still have to separate the systems with a flat plate.
maple1
Minister of Fire
Wouldn't this dedicated mixing circ also have the effect of making supply temps lower? Which may or may not be a concern...
Was thinking about placing the garage loop on the return side. I need every degree to keep the house hot, however I don't need the capacity of the furnace in the house. I'm expecting return temps within 15 degrees of supply. I have an old inefficient house and baseboards need it hot to keep up.
For the heat emitter was thinking of an old cast iron radiator, old truck radiator with fan, or a Mr heater coil with fan. The garage is 22x23 ft and uninsulated at the moment.
hondaracer2oo4
Feeling the Heat
Your money would be well spent to at the very least air seal the home. That is the biggest losses of btus.
Certainly so but my biggest priority now is getting this furnace installed. Don't want to rely on my indoor gas boiler that's 40+ years old more than I have to. The house has had some pink board laid tight over the old siding and then new vinyl siding overlaid on that around 15 years ago. Tyvec wasn't that popular yet. My foundation cracks and windows are the biggest problem. First I'll get boiler in then try a few windows. Sometimes blow straw on foundation when gets cold.
Karl_northwind
Minister of Fire
the mixing circulator is a better application than a 3 way in this case, as there is no storage, and it keeps proper flow rate thru the various parts of the boiler. in many cases the flow rates of the distribution loops don't add up to enough flow to keep the boiler from heating unevenly. having 2000F flame on the other side of 1/8" steel from 212F max water makes things dicey. you have to keep enough flow there or you have problems.
Karl_northwind
Minister of Fire
Funnily enough, in wrestling the pex into the back of a G-200 I installed this week, I hit and closed the valve on the mixing circulator in the back of the boiler. it would only deliver 130 F water to the load, and short cycle horribly, and go out regularly. my sharp eyed customer noticed it, opened it and off we went. no problems at all after that. It went about half a day like that.
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