Please help me, we just bought a house and i have a timberline wood stove, it is very big and it looks pretty new. i finally got the courage to try it on today, well it was not a total disaster, but i think the wood that i used was not seasoned well because it burned really fast. My question is about the damper, some say to leave it open, others say to close it. Is the damper the same thing as the 2 knobs i have in front of the doors of the stove, there are two big knobs you open and heat comes out, and there is small like switch at the flue of the chimmeney( i think that's what is called), i think this is the damper. Should i keep it open or close, and how about the knobs. Also how can i built a fire that last a long time, instead of putting in wood every 1/2 hour. Thank you so much in advance. Myrna
Hello, everyone. Newbie here
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Welcome Myrna. First I have to ask, did you have the chimney cleaned first before you started burning? You always want to start off the season with a clean chimney, especially with an unknown flue. You will benefit from having the chimney sweep give the entire system a good looking over for integrity and safety.
It would help to have a model or at least a picture, but from the way it's been described this sounds like an old pre-EPA stove. If so, it is at least 20-25 years old. The two knobs on the front control the air being fed to the fire. A fire needs oxygen to burn and this is where it is fed from. The damper on the stove pipe is probably there to control the draft on the stove. The chimney flue is half of the stove system. The flue draft sucks the smoke from the fire which is replaced with fresh air coming in the air controls. The flue damper and air controls work to control the fire. Less air and draft and the fire will burn slower and last longer.
This stove will never be light on wood consumption. It can be filled with larger splits of wood once it is going well and a good coal bed has been established. Once the larger splits are burning well the air controls can be closed off about 1/2 to 3/4s closed. If your wood is burning quickly, it is not unseasoned. Unseasoned wood is hard to light and burns slowly, often with little heat.
Here's a link to some more burning tips. Take small steps and burn carefully.
(broken link removed to http://www.woodheat.org/tips/biglistoftips.htm)
It would help to have a model or at least a picture, but from the way it's been described this sounds like an old pre-EPA stove. If so, it is at least 20-25 years old. The two knobs on the front control the air being fed to the fire. A fire needs oxygen to burn and this is where it is fed from. The damper on the stove pipe is probably there to control the draft on the stove. The chimney flue is half of the stove system. The flue draft sucks the smoke from the fire which is replaced with fresh air coming in the air controls. The flue damper and air controls work to control the fire. Less air and draft and the fire will burn slower and last longer.
This stove will never be light on wood consumption. It can be filled with larger splits of wood once it is going well and a good coal bed has been established. Once the larger splits are burning well the air controls can be closed off about 1/2 to 3/4s closed. If your wood is burning quickly, it is not unseasoned. Unseasoned wood is hard to light and burns slowly, often with little heat.
Here's a link to some more burning tips. Take small steps and burn carefully.
(broken link removed to http://www.woodheat.org/tips/biglistoftips.htm)
If it burned fast, that indicates dry wood (usually).
Yes, more air usually equals a shorter burn, all things being equal. But wood burning is an art, not a science, and what you do at various times in the fire will be best figured out by "listening" to your stove (hmm, I think we need a book titled, Listen to Your Stove).
But first, read the articles in our main info area - see links in my sig - about tending a fire and starting a fire. In short, the secret of longer burns is to get a bed of coals (embers), then rake them to the front of the stove, load wood and turn down the air - not too low! You need a magnetic thermometer on your unit so that you know how hot it is.
Also, as BG mentioned, that is an older stove- you must be aware of the potential to make dangerous amounts of tar and creosote. Burning hotter and faster is actually better in this regard.
Yes, more air usually equals a shorter burn, all things being equal. But wood burning is an art, not a science, and what you do at various times in the fire will be best figured out by "listening" to your stove (hmm, I think we need a book titled, Listen to Your Stove).
But first, read the articles in our main info area - see links in my sig - about tending a fire and starting a fire. In short, the secret of longer burns is to get a bed of coals (embers), then rake them to the front of the stove, load wood and turn down the air - not too low! You need a magnetic thermometer on your unit so that you know how hot it is.
Also, as BG mentioned, that is an older stove- you must be aware of the potential to make dangerous amounts of tar and creosote. Burning hotter and faster is actually better in this regard.
FYI, the folks at NorthStar Energy in Middletown are long time friends........holly and mark. If you are looking at new stoves or need chimney service, ask them for a recommendation. They will likely be very busy this time of year, but hopefully they can help or point you in the right direction if you want your setup checked.
H, I used a single door Timberline for 26 years until I replaced it with a new one this year. Like BG and Craig have said, wood heat is something you have to learn. My old stove heated the house well but I had to clean tne chimney and stope pipe at least twice during the heating season. If you burn hot enough to keep the chimney clean all your heat would go up the chimney. My father in-law had the double door model for about 15 years and replaced it with a new stove because the Timberline scared him one too many times.
Jim
Jim
Thank you guys so much for your fast reply and helpful hints. I bought a couple of packages of wood in the store yesterday and this wood lasted longer, the fire i built at night lasted all night. Thank you so much, i will be giving North Star energy a call, thank you. Do you know what is the average price to have the stove cleaned and checked. Oh! one last question about the damper does it stay open? it will make sense to leave it open that way the smoke comes out, i think. Thank you, Myrna
If it has a stove pipe damper, that would stay open most of the time - if and when you have a full firebox of red coals (embers), then shutting the damper may help you get some extra heat and a longer burn. Again, you will "feel" it......make sure you open the damper before loading.
Myrnamp,
We have a friend in Harriman and has lots of wood for the taking, you need a good 4x4 and strong back but if you are interested PM us.
Welcome aboard!
We have a friend in Harriman and has lots of wood for the taking, you need a good 4x4 and strong back but if you are interested PM us.
Welcome aboard!
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