Hello, first post. How to reassemble jotul Castine?

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frascati

New Member
Sep 16, 2013
5
What cement do I use to seal the inside two ventilation panels on either side? When I took them out most of it cracked and disintegrated.
Also how do I get the fiberglass rope back in place in order to reinstall the top "afterburner" plate? (have no idea what it's called). There is about 1.5' and a smaller 6" segment on either side. How is it kept in place while installing that plate ? (it's that stepped stamped metal top plate with holes in it).

Is it cemented on in some way and left to cure before installing the plate? Or does it simply require extraordinary patience and decaffeinated coffee to tuck it in as you go. Reason why the stove is semi dismantled follows. So you can just skip it if you'd rather.




Did one of the dumbest things imaginable two nights ago. Lit a fire first time this season and it backed up on me. Hmm. Good dry wood. Open the ash door to get it going and some heat in the flue, smoke starts coming out of the ash door. Closed both doors for half a minute and opened them.... smoke comes gushing out. Had to pour water on it. What a reek. Opened all the doors and windows and turned the huge window fan up in the bedroom. Did you catch that last part? I didn't cause I'm an idiot. I didn't turn the, very powerful, window fan on.... I turned it UP. It was on medium. Smoke cleared half an hour later. So... I ask myself.... what the hell was the problem?

Animal must have nested in the stainless topper on the chimney. Had a bird get in between the grille once before so it's possible. Get up on the roof, getting dark out, flashlight in hand and remove the flue topper. Clean as a whistle all the way down (double walled SS so almost no creosote build up in 12 years of regular use).

So the stove must be gunked up somehow, somewhere. Maybe even a nest inside. Get out the tools and start dismantling. Out with the upper afterburner plate thing, out with the back panel and three cinder bricks, off with the inside side ventilation panels. Everything clean as a whistle, except my living room floor and my clothes.

That's about when it hit me like a beer bottle. The damn fan. It's very strong. Run at medium and crack any window, even in the basement, and air comes streaming in. I had shut all the windows and doors in anticipation of a nice evening's fire and neglected the fan . It was literally sucking smoke out of the stove and flue (don't think any even made it as far as the flue, just fresh air going the wrong way)

Do I win a Darwin prize here or something?
 
I would strongly recommend starting hotter fires over use of the ash pan. It really is a matter if not when you will damage the stove with that procedure. Draft is a very slight force I'm thinking the fan surely had a negative effect on your start up.have you tried again since the fan has been turned off?
 
It could be the stove will need to have an outside air kit added or at least some more height added to the chimney. I echo jotulguy's warning about using the ashpan door as a startup air supply. Bad plan that can lead to a very expensive repair if the grate and base crack due to the rapid forge-like heating it creates.
 
Yeah you created negative pressure and the smoke is gonna take the path of least resistance.
 
I've never used the as door to get the fire roaring. I've used it on occasion, for no more than 20 to thirty Seconds, well before any hot coals have been produced, to clear the air and just 'nudge it along'.

"but how does he put it back together?" Heaven's sake guys. I'll skip the lengthy explanation from now on since it generally seems to distract from the point. I honestly appreciate the advice, but given without offering any help with the original question is a bit like asking for advice on assembling a mototcycle and only being reminded to wear a helmet.

Is the cement for these available at Home Depot? Has anyone installed the glass rope around a difficult to position part of the stove? Can it be cemented on first? Is there a more appropriate forum you might be able to suggest to me for 'repair' Q&A?
 
You use furnace cement for the cast iron panels and it is available this time of year in the seasonal section of Home Depot. The flat fiberglass gasket for stove door glass usually has adhesive on the back of it that holds it in place during installation.
 
Thank you BrotherBart. The internet is the occasional bain an obsessive compulsive guy like me. I can hardly put my socks on each morning any more without consulting google to be CERTAIN that I'm doing it correctly.

Fortunately I did not do that much stove disassembly. So scrub the debris off the surface, clean with alcohol, and tape the flat fiberglass gasket in place. The adhesive just burns off I presume?

And everybody, thanks for the forwarnings and "....happened to me too" support. Come to think on it, which sock do I put on put on first? Can't believe I don't know that fact. Maybe it's different every morning? Never checked. I bet there is some cool statistic about that on the web. Gotta go

Brad
 
Socks are over rated. Optional, so far as I'm concerned.
 
If I'm not too late to chime in, I've had my secondary baffle out and the gasketing on it is like you say....a pain in the arse. I bought new gaskets from Jotul...they are thin and have adhesive back/tape on them. Problem is, they don't stick worth squat. I found this out once I made only two fires, the tails of the gaskets were loose and dropped down into the firebox, just like the originals did. So, what I did was obtained some high heat ceramic glass matt (Fibertex) and by lifting up on the baffle assembly, stuffed strips of it into the recess. The weight of the baffle keeps it all in there. Two years now and it has not moved. Works much better than the stock thin gaskets.
 
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