Help a newbie

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oldbrick1974

New Member
Nov 9, 2022
10
Iowa
Hey there guys,

So I finally got both of my fireplaces up and running, a pair of Heatilator Mark 123 model 3036, and am looking for some guidance. When I bought my house, I was told both fireplaces were "capped" because they were unable to open the dampers. After a little elbow grease and some work with a pipe and hammer, turns out they weren't capped, there was just about 50 years worth of dead birds and squirrels sitting on top of that plate. Don't know if you've ever had skulls rain down on you while your stuffed into a confined space, but I wouldn't recommend it. Anyway, man do these Heatilators suck - literally. I'm barely getting any heat and have to run the damper wide open to keep the room from filling up with smoke. What are my options here? I know the unit goes up quite a ways past the brick/stone façade, but can I cut these things out and replace it with a free standing or insert? The stove pipe on the roof is about 14.5 inches in diameter on the outside, with the inside pipe around 8.5. I'm just worried about these things cutting loose and taking an arm off or worse if I try to remove the stove. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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Oh my! Nice first post. Had me laughing. Welcome to Hearth. Where in IA approximately?
 
@bholler, do you see anything in the manual saying an insert can't be installed in this fireplace? I didn't but may have missed it. The online copy is a bit blurry.
 
@bholler, do you see anything in the manual saying an insert can't be installed in this fireplace? I didn't but may have missed it. The online copy is a bit blurry.
I will look later. I don't think they are allowed but not sure so I will check
 
I think it's just a place where the veil between bird worlds is thin - after cleaning that mess out, I had another bird work its way down there. I popped the caps off the chimney and lined them with some stainless steel mesh so hopefully that does the trick. As for the dog, he is under the impression that every piece of wood brought in rightfully belongs to him and can be carried wherever he believes necessary, so we're working on that.
 
I think it's just a place where the veil between bird worlds is thin - after cleaning that mess out, I had another bird work its way down there. I popped the caps off the chimney and lined them with some stainless steel mesh so hopefully that does the trick. As for the dog, he is under the impression that every piece of wood brought in rightfully belongs to him and can be carried wherever he believes necessary, so we're working on that.
Ha,

Seems fitting for the breed.
 
Ok there is nothing in the manual saying specifically no inserts. But lots of statements about only using parts specified by the manufacturer or parts specified in the manual.
 
Yes, most of those caveats seemed on the venting system, or doors. I was wondering if a Lopi insert could be put in there with a 6" liner. Some of them state ok for Heatilator installs.
 
Ok there is nothing in the manual saying specifically no inserts. But lots of statements about only using parts specified by the manufacturer or parts specified in the manual.
Thank you for checking on that. I'm not sure if it's worth the risk, my wife did mention something about not burning the house down. I'm perfectly fine with the Heatilators being cut up and destroyed to remove them, I'm just worried about the chimney pipe. It seems like it would be very heavy and I have no idea if or how it is anchored in there.
 
Thank you for checking on that. I'm not sure if it's worth the risk, my wife did mention something about not burning the house down. I'm perfectly fine with the Heatilators being cut up and destroyed to remove them, I'm just worried about the chimney pipe. It seems like it would be very heavy and I have no idea if or how it is anchored in there.
The chimney pipe, once detached from the fireplace, can be pulled out from the top and undone section by section.

Before starting, have a game plan in place. Know what you are replacing it with and the requirements. A freestanding stove will have to follow the alcove installation requirements for that stove. A modern, EPA ZC fireplace replacement is also worth considering if that is the look desired. They too can be very good heaters and some use the same or similar fireboxes as their freestanding stoves.
 
The chimney pipe, once detached from the fireplace, can be pulled out from the top and undone section by section.

Before starting, have a game plan in place. Know what you are replacing it with and the requirements. A freestanding stove will have to follow the alcove installation requirements for that stove. A modern, EPA ZC fireplace replacement is also worth considering if that is the look desired. They too can be very good heaters and some use the same or similar fireboxes as their freestanding stoves.
I really don't mind, and actual prefer, the insert for this application. Only thing is a cheap one from a dealer around here is about $2,500 so that has me reevaluating my options. Could that existing pipe be left in and just run a six-inch sleeve down it? I honestly don't think either of these fireplaces were ever used (the husband died shortly after the house was built) so it seems like a shame to just get rid of essentially new pipes
 
An insert is a stove designed to be installed into a fireplace. Is this what you mean? A zero clearance fireplace is called an insert by some dealers so I just want to clarify. What product specifically is being recommended by the dealer?
 
Put otherwise, if you gut your fireplace, you're definitely not using an "insert". You'd be looking at ZC fireplaces.

If you keep your fireplace, then there'll be more debate as to whether it's capable of accepting an insert.
 
Sorry I pretty unfamiliar with the terminology, grew up in a house with a very simple cast iron stove. I've just been comparing some prices at local fireplace dealers, but some of the box stores have more palatable costs. The Buck 74 seems pretty reasonable and Menards carries a Vogelzang insert for even cheaper, but I'm not sure if either of those would be worth it.
 
Can't help you with much. But I have a vogelzang(made by us stove) as my only heat source. They are cheap Chinese stoves but they work. If your on a budget I see nothing wrong with this brand
 
I think I've reached the "buy once, cry once" stage of homeownership, and with my wife surprisingly giving me the ok to move forward, I might spring for something nice since I do have a little money squirreled away for this project. So far the Buck 74 is the only stove I've seen whose manual specifically says it was UL tested to be placed in a Heatilator. I was digging the BK Princess, but that explicitly states it can't be put in a factory built fireplace (which is what I have? Still a little confused on that aspect)
 
Buck is a decent brand, with a long history. Most of their users seem to be in the southeast (eg. Carolinas), and their styling clings to the 1970's. They're not pushing the forefront of stove technology, but we also rarely see any complaints about them.

Come to think of it, they did have one troublesome model, that caused some talk several years back. Maybe begreen or bholler will remember that one, but overall, their users seem to like their stoves.

Paging @BKVP to comment on Princess in this fireplace. He seems to be on the road a lot right now, but he'll check in at some point and see this.
 
Look at the Lopi Evergreen insert if available in your area.

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