Help fixing bad install...

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here

snaple4

Feeling the Heat
Dec 18, 2017
284
AR
Floor to ceiling sheetrock (chase) is 82.5". Top of sheetrock to concrete ceiling is 12.5"

Looking at getting a Woodstock progress but that will be about a year out.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
There is just way to much going on there for me to be of much help from pics. But i am guessing it is a complete tear out and start over.
 
Yes, complete except for existing stove. It is a lot going on in the pictures. Want to run 6" insulated double wall up clay flue. Right now it has something that looks like b-vent but it isn't big enough so not sure what it is. The outer shell is galvanized though. Can I use a ceiling support box on the chase/drop ceiling or do I need to find a way to attach it to the concrete ceiling?



Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
[Hearth.com] Help fixing bad install...



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Odd... Something ate my fist post...

Anyways, I'll resubmit. Question is 1) how do I seal up the door way and 2) how do I install a ceiling support box on the drop ceiling?

I am going to remove the rock enclosure, redo the ductwork, and replace the furnace (will be PVC vented out the front of house. Will remove the 4" single wall flue next to the stove pipe). Ductwork will have a metal run on either side of the stove pipe.

To seal off door (it is a 6" cinder block wall) can I use metal studs and durock?


1st picture is Front of unit.

2nd is standing in a doorway I need to seal up.

3rd is standing at the stove looking back. You can see the door way.

4th is from entrance of utility room looking to the back of the stove

5th is looking horizontal above doorway. You can see the stove pipe going up and the horizontal run of the furnace pipe before it bends to go up with the stove pipe.

6th is looking up from stove pipe.

[Hearth.com] Help fixing bad install... [Hearth.com] Help fixing bad install... [Hearth.com] Help fixing bad install... [Hearth.com] Help fixing bad install... [Hearth.com] Help fixing bad install... [Hearth.com] Help fixing bad install...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
That’s a Dura-vent dura liner, not class A chimney, you’ll be replacing that right? Where does it go?
The door can be enclosed with anything really, as long as the new stove meets the required clearances from it.
 
Yes. I will replace all the pipe. Most likely with Metal-Fab but may be a different brand depending on local prices.

Pipe goes straight up and out. Not sure If you can tell on picture. Will get a better one tomorrow.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[Hearth.com] Help fixing bad install...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes. I will replace all the pipe. Most likely with Metal-Fab but may be a different brand depending on local prices.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
If I understand correctly it goes into a masonry chimney above that correct? If so does that pipe run all the way through that chimney?
 
If I understand correctly it goes into a masonry chimney above that correct? If so does that pipe run all the way through that chimney?
That is correct. Has rectangle clay chimney and pipe runs through that all the way out. Straight shot.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
That is correct. Has rectangle clay chimney and pipe runs through that all the way out. Straight shot.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
So if that is duraliner you want to keep it in the chimney. You just need to fix the bottom. You could just transition to connector pipe if clearances can be met. If not you will need to transition to class a somehow. You would have to ask the manufacturer how they recommend doing that. Or Webby may know I don't I have never used that product.
 
I'm going to remove it and put in a double wall (draft is weak b/c of the short distance). I also need to make it look nice when I remove the rock wall because my wife doesn't like to look of a wood stove in the living room. I may re-use the pipe in the shop later on if it is in good condition and safe. Not sure if I can buy pipe to add to it though...

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
Yes. I will replace all the pipe. Most likely with Metal-Fab but may be a different brand depending on local prices.

Pipe goes straight up and out. Not sure If you can tell on picture. Will get a better one tomorrow.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

View attachment 237383
Oh I see it is a really short chimney. Probably too short. I would probably remove it and switch out for class a the whole way up and out extending it up further when you do.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm going to remove it and put in a double wall (draft is weak b/c of the short distance). I also need to make it look nice when I remove the rock wall because my wife doesn't like to look of a wood stove in the living room. I may re-use the pipe in the shop later on if it is in good condition and safe. Not sure if I can buy pipe to add to it though...

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
That pipe again if it is duraliner which I trust Webby when he says it is. Is only meant to be used inside a chimney. So unless you have a chimney in your shop to put it in you can't use it. And it is a double wall insulated product.
 
I plan on also redoing the rock here as well but may just use brick on top for the time being. Not sure I will have the time or patience this season. Total length of chimney right now is 14' from top of stove. I want to make it 16-18' if possible. How high can I go up with rock/brick before I need to worry about bracing?
[Hearth.com] Help fixing bad install...[Hearth.com] Help fixing bad install...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Going to install new pipe; current one looks like it is supported by the stove. I will install a flat ceiling support box but it is on a drop down ceiling and I am concerned it won't hold without sagging after a few years. How can I hold the weight of the pipe on top? I know there is a rectangle clay flue but not sure how far up since the top has natural rock.

Will likely use Metal Fab 6" Temp/Guard 2100 pipe since I can get it locally.

The 4" flue pipe for furnace will be removed.
[Hearth.com] Help fixing bad install...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You need an insulated SS liner. How does that chimney terminate at the bottom? And how does that furnace vent make its way into the flue?
 
Going to install new pipe; current one looks like it is supported by the stove. I will install a flat ceiling support box but it is on a drop down ceiling and I am concerned it won't hold without sagging after a few years. How can I hold the weight of the pipe on top? I know there is a rectangle clay flue but not sure how far up since the top has natural rock.

Will likely use Metal Fab 6" Temp/Guard 2100 pipe since I can get it locally.

The 4" flue pipe for furnace will be removed. View attachment 238653

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
You're going to need pictures of the inside and how things connect before we can offer any usable advice
 
It's a mess inside.

This one has some history. Doesn't need a new thread. Otherwise everything needs repeating, again.

I've joined it to the last old thread for easier reference.
 
It's a mess inside.

This one has some history. Doesn't need a new thread. Otherwise everything needs repeating, again.

I've joined it to the last old thread for easier reference.
I thought since I asked a specific question that a new post was better. Thank you for merging.

In this picture you can see the drop down grid. Keep in mind that the furnace flue is getting removed and all new metal ductwork installed when new furnace gets in. The rock enclosure is also going away.

Do you think the drop down chase would be strong enough to support the pipe or do I need a support at the exit of chimney?
[Hearth.com] Help fixing bad install...[Hearth.com] Help fixing bad install...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The grid looks somewhat light-weight and appears poorly supported. In the second shot what are we looking at? Is this some sort of spray on coating? And what is above this ceiling where the insulation is stuffed in?
 
The grid looks somewhat light-weight and appears poorly supported. In the second shot what are we looking at? Is this some sort of spray on coating? And what is above this ceiling where the insulation is stuffed in?
The drop down isn't well built or supported. I can tear it out (and may do so) but don't think it will be much stronger; which is the reason for my concern.

The second picture is looking up at the ceiling/start of the rectangle clay flue. This is a solid concrete ceiling of unknown thickness. Above that is dirt/rock of unknown thickness. I can't dig down in the dirt on the roof b/c of a water proof plastic membrane. Once I tear off the top of the chimney I will be able to measure the total thickness of dirt and concrete.

When I tear off the top of the chimney, is there anything I can use at the top to support the weight of the new pipe?

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


Edit: in the second picture you can also see fiberglass shoved into the clay flue.