Help! How do i clean magic reclaimer and pipes?

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Laurabelle

New Member
Jan 17, 2024
11
Michigan
I recently bought a new cabin and quickly learned wood stove and pipes are extremely fuĺl of creosote. I don't know much about wood stoves and had never seen a reclaimer so I've been searching for a video or step by step guide to cleaning it but haven't quite found it. I bought the pipe brushes however this reclaimer has me doubting my abilities. Do I have to actually remove reclaimer and all piping? Or just above reclaimer? And whether I remove reclaimer or not how do I clean the thing? Thanks in advance for any help I can get.

[Hearth.com] Help! How do i clean magic reclaimer and pipes?
 
I recently bought a new cabin and quickly learned wood stove and pipes are extremely fuĺl of creosote. I don't know much about wood stoves and had never seen a reclaimer so I've been searching for a video or step by step guide to cleaning it but haven't quite found it. I bought the pipe brushes however this reclaimer has me doubting my abilities. Do I have to actually remove reclaimer and all piping? Or just above reclaimer? And whether I remove reclaimer or not how do I clean the thing? Thanks in advance for any help I can get.

View attachment 323108
Take all the pipe down remove that reclaimer and throw it in the trash
 
I recently bought a new cabin and quickly learned wood stove and pipes are extremely fuĺl of creosote. I don't know much about wood stoves and had never seen a reclaimer so I've been searching for a video or step by step guide to cleaning it but haven't quite found it. I bought the pipe brushes however this reclaimer has me doubting my abilities. Do I have to actually remove reclaimer and all piping? Or just above reclaimer? And whether I remove reclaimer or not how do I clean the thing? Thanks in advance for any help I can get.

View attachment 323108
What @bholler said.
 
Well that would definitely fix the ceosote problem I have with reclaimer lol however I'd like to keep it if possible. 🤪
The reclaimer causes creosote problems
 
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I am learning this however for now I need to remove creosote and keep it together at least through winter. I'm not able to be replacing pipes and whatnot right now. However right now I'm afraid to use stove again after seeing ceosote pouring over sides of piping outside. And wood stove is my only heat source. 🥵
 
The best way to clean that creosote trap is to remove it, permanently. Replacing that section of pipe would be under $10.
 
I am learning this however for now I need to remove creosote and keep it together at least through winter. I'm not able to be replacing pipes and whatnot right now. However right now I'm afraid to use stove again after seeing ceosote pouring over sides of piping outside. And wood stove is my only heat source. 🥵
Your pipe is also upside down. Can you post a pic of the outside?
 
The rug in front is not safe ember protection. Is this stove on a wooden floor with no hearth protection?
 
Your pipe is also upside down. Can you post a pic of the outside?
Are you kidding me? I know nothing about stove pipes so can you please explain what's upside down? My goodness the joy of my wood stove has quickly became a source of disappointments 😞 I will try to get a picture outside now. I only notice the ceosote running down pipe because 6 weeks ago I painted the outside of my house and was on a ladder inches from it and certainly would have noticed it. It's very obvious and the reason I investigated the issue today
 
Not great pictures but can retake in morning. The top of pipe outside is so thick with ceosote I think it's heating up and dripping down pipe but this is just a guess of course. I do know for a fact 6 weeks ago when I bought cabin and painted exterior none of it was visible.
 
Do you have working (!) smoke and carbon monoxide detectors?
 
How hot do you normally run the flue gas? I ask because I don’t see any thermometers in the pic and you didn’t mention any. Below a certain temperature the flue gas will condense and form creosote, and as the others have pointed out that reclaimer is 99% for sure dropping your flue below that temp.
How is your wood supply? It doesn’t take long for high moisture wood to clog up a stack without a reclaimer.
 
How hot do you normally run the flue gas? I ask because I don’t see any thermometers in the pic and you didn’t mention any. Below a certain temperature the flue gas will condense and form creosote, and as the others have pointed out that reclaimer is 99% for sure dropping your flue below that temp.
How is your wood supply? It doesn’t take long for high moisture wood to clog up a stack without a reclaimer.
Pardon my ignorance but what is flue gas? I know reclaimer kicks on at 160° and it's constantly running. My wood supply was left by previous owners but to my knowledge is well seasoned ash.
 
Ok atleast it's actually chimney pipe outside I was worried. The chimney looks to be in pretty rough shape.

Stove pipe should always have the male joints pointing towards the stove
The chimney did not look like that at all a month and a half ago I swear. Everything appeared in prestine condition
 
The chimney did not look like that at all a month and a half ago I swear. Everything appeared in prestine condition

If that’s the case you need to get a professional sweep out there to look everything over, especially with it running down the chimney. That kind of wear and tear on a chimney is not normal even on the galvanized you have.
 
Pardon my ignorance but what is flue gas? I know reclaimer kicks on at 160° and it's constantly running. My wood supply was left by previous owners but to my knowledge is well seasoned ash.
The exhaust gas going up/out the stove pipe.
 
When wood is burned, especially poorly seasoned wood, there is lot of water along for the ride. If you have 10 pounds of wood, well seasoned wood may be 10% moisture, so the 10 pounds of wood is actually 9 pounds of bone dry wood and 1 pound of water. Water does not burn and even though you cant see it in the wood, its liquid. In order for it to go up the stack in the flue gas, it has to be heated into steam just like a tea kettle on a stove. To convert liquid water to vapor requires a lot of heat, a lot more than just warming it up, that is why it takes so long to get water to boil. Green poorly seasoned wood may have 40% moisture content so there is only 6 pounds of dry wood that needs to boil 4 pounds of water. The energy being used to boil that water goes right up the stack and cools down any fire in the wood stove.

Mixed in with the water vapor are other compounds, a very simple example is maple sap, if you are familiar with making maple syrup. The sap looks like water but dissolved in it is sugar. As its boiled the water goes up through the roof and the sap concentrates into syrup and if overcooked it will turn into black goop before turning solid. The other problem is that with all that water, the fire does not burn hot enough to burn the wood and the other compounds completely. Carbon Monoxide is the stuff formed by burning wood too cold that kills people, but it does not condense, it either goes up the stack or into the house. There are lots of other compounds mixed in with wood that do the same thing but they turn into a gas that can condense out when cooled. As long as the water stays as vapor when it leaves the stack its less of a problem and the nasty gases go out into the outside air but if the chimney is cool, less than 212 Degrees F, the water vapor in the flue gas will condense on cooler surfaces. A lot of the other nasties have a lower boiling point and they will also condense out. It's the same process that makes water condense on the outside of cold glass on a humid day, the bead form and run down the sides of the glass and leaves a ring. The resultant sludge in the stack or a pot left on the stove is creosote.

When vapor condenses, its a liquid and it runs down the pipe back into the stove to be heated up again if the stove pipes seams are pointed in the correct direction (pointed so that the crimps in the pipe are headed down. When pipe is sold its comes with one crimped end and most stoves and heat reclaimers are sold with round rather than crimped entrance. So a DIY person cuts the pipe to length cutting the smooth easy end of the pipe and sticks the store bought crimped end into the round collars on the equipment and its easy to get the pipe "upside" down.

Chimneys, especially uninsulated ones or ones on outside walls cool off the stack gases by giving off heat. and that means those flue gases cool off as they go up to the roof Adding in a heat reclaimer set at 160F is just asking for the flue gases to condense out and end up somewhere, either back in the stove or somewhere up in the stack forming liquid and then solid creosote. Give it long enough and it can choke off the chimney. This creosote if heated up enough will burn and its just a matter of time until there is chimney fire. When the creosote is heated up back into a gas it burns like rocket fuel, as it burns it melts more and more creosote into a gas that then makes the fire hotter. A chimney fire can destroy chimneys and burn down houses.

My guess is your recent problems are probably largely caused by burning poorly seasoned wood at low stove output prior to the recent midwest cold snap. The stove is being burned hotter to heat the house and the creosote already in the stack is melting and running down the chimney. It is usually a sign that a chimney fire is imminent. If you bought the wood, despite assurances from the seller, its highly likely it's not fully seasoned. It is easy to check using the right technique and inexpensive moisture meter but if it's checked after its delivered, unless the seller takes it back, you are stuck with green wood and the only way to get it dry is restack it in sunny place with its top covered for several months.
 
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When wood is burned, especially poorly seasoned wood, there is lot of water along for the ride. If you have 10 pounds of wood, well seasoned wood may be 10% moisture, so the 10 pounds of wood is actually 9 pounds of bone dry wood and 1 pound of water. Water does not burn and even though you cant see it in the wood, its liquid. In order for it to go up the stack in the flue gas, it has to be heated into steam just like a tea kettle on a stove. To convert liquid water to vapor requires a lot of heat, a lot more than just warming it up, that is why it takes so long to get water to boil. Green poorly seasoned wood may have 40% moisture content so there is only 6 pounds of dry wood that needs to boil 4 pounds of water. The energy being used to boil that water goes right up the stack and cools down any fire in the wood stove.

Mixed in with the water vapor are other compounds, a very simple example is maple sap, if you are familiar with making maple syrup. The sap looks like water but dissolved in it is sugar. As its boiled the water goes up through the roof and the sap concentrates into syrup and if overcooked it will turn into black goop before turning solid. The other problem is that with all that water, the fire does not burn hot enough to burn the wood and the other compounds completely. Carbon Monoxide is the stuff formed by burning wood too cold that kills people, but it does not condense, it either goes up the stack or into the house. There are lots of other compounds mixed in with wood that do the same thing but they turn into a gas that can condense out when cooled. As long as the water stays as vapor when it leaves the stack its less of a problem and the nasty gases go out into the outside air but if the chimney is cool, less than 212 Degrees F, the water vapor in the flue gas will condense on cooler surfaces. A lot of the other nasties have a lower boiling point and they will also condense out. It's the same process that makes water condense on the outside of cold glass on a humid day, the bead form and run down the sides of the glass and leaves a ring. The resultant sludge in the stack or a pot left on the stove is creosote.

When vapor condenses, its a liquid and it runs down the pipe back into the stove to be heated up again if the stove pipes seams are pointed in the correct direction (pointed so that the crimps in the pipe are headed down. When pipe is sold its comes with one crimped end and most stoves and heat reclaimers are sold with round rather than crimped entrance. So a DIY person cuts the pipe to length cutting the smooth easy end of the pipe and sticks the store bought crimped end into the round collars on the equipment and its easy to get the pipe "upside" down.

Chimneys, especially uninsulated ones or ones on outside walls cool off the stack gases by giving off heat. and that means those flue gases cool off as they go up to the roof Adding in a heat reclaimer set at 160F is just asking for the flue gases to condense out and end up somewhere, either back in the stove or somewhere up in the stack forming liquid and then solid creosote. Give it long enough and it can choke off the chimney. This creosote if heated up enough will burn and its just a matter of time until there is chimney fire. When the creosote is heated up back into a gas it burns like rocket fuel, as it burns it melts more and more creosote into a gas that then makes the fire hotter. A chimney fire can destroy chimneys and burn down houses.

My guess is your recent problems are probably largely caused by burning poorly seasoned wood at low stove output prior to the recent midwest cold snap. The stove is being burned hotter to heat the house and the creosote already in the stack is melting and running down the chimney. It is usually a sign that a chimney fire is imminent. If you bought the wood, despite assurances from the seller, its highly likely it's not fully seasoned. It is easy to check using the right technique and inexpensive moisture meter but if it's checked after its delivered, unless the seller takes it back, you are stuck with green wood and the only way to get it dry is restack it in sunny place with its top covered for several months.
Very well explained. Thank you so much for taking the time to educate me. Makes total sense now. Should I clean pipes and somehow remove reclaimer to clean it? Also would I be putting males parts facing down when reassembling? I will not have another fire until it's cleaned and properly seasoned wood is secured. I'm still lost on what to do with reclaimer to clean it. I feel this issue is from my ignorance and my doings and not reclaimer
 
Install all pipes pointy end facing down.

The reclaimer pulls heat out of the flue gasses, making it easier for the gasses to condense on the sides of the chimney, making creosote.

If you can keep the flue gasses and chimney hot, nothing condenses.

It’s very existence compounds your problems.