HELP... I have a magnum countryside that wont turn on the convection blower.

[northwoods#1]

I cleaned the pellet stove and reconnected the wires and auger motor etc. and now have no convection blower or control panel light.

 

[ARC]

Are you saying you have no power to stove? If so check behind transformer there should be two 6 amp fuses.

 

[northwoods#1]

Thank you for the answer but my stove is a Magnum countryside pedestal and looks different than yours.

 

[ARC]

I am going to assume you have a 3500P. Magnum Countryside comes in Baby(one I posted) 3500P, 6500 and 7500 furnace. If it is the 3500P check that the power supply cord is plug in the back of the stove. Check the fuse it is on the back of the control board. If you have a volt meter check voltage at molex (white plug attached to back of your control board) White and Orange wires. If you do not have the 3500P please post picture of stove and of front of control panel.

 

[ARC]

The power supply should plug into a connection behind your stove. On the inside of stove this connection should have 3 wire harness. Orange (hot) White (neutral) and Green (ground) check to see if you loosened any of these wires when you cleaned. The orange goes directly to the molex plug on the control board. White is routed to all motors and safety switches and also to molex plug. Green goes to body of stove for a ground.

 

[Watcher1]

Also something to check on the right side looking at the stove from the front open that side door and check that the wires to the temp sensors are making good contact. Best unplug the stove first!

 

[northwoods#1]

I am going to assume you have a 3500P. Magnum Countryside comes in Baby(one I posted) 3500P, 6500 and 7500 furnace. If it is the 3500P check that the power supply cord is plug in the back of the stove. Check the fuse it is on the back of the control board. If you have a volt meter check voltage at molex (white plug attached to back of your control board) White and Orange wires. If you do not have the 3500P please post picture of stove and of front of control panel.

View attachment 283131 View attachment 283132

 

[northwoods#1]

Thank you for the response and yes I have a model 3500p, I checked the voltage with my meter at the molex connector and have 120v and also have various voltages at all sensors both 120 and the 250 degrees but still no green power light on the board.
Strange thing is I checked voltage from the wires coming out of the stove harness and have 120v for the convection blower but it wont run so i ran a separate cord and plugged the same voltage from it to the motor and it runs fine so I'm baffled.

 

[northwoods#1]

Also something to check on the right side looking at the stove from the front open that side door and check that the wires to the temp sensors are making good contact. Best unplug the stove first!

I checked and even put 3 brand new sensors in it.

 

[ARC]

have 120v for the convection blower

How did you test this should have been black and red wires on molex plug or at motor itself. Next I would trace the green wire at molex to switch and attach the green wire to the neutral wire at the low limit switch. If that does not work, I would then try spraying some electric contact cleaner in to the rotary switches on the board and work them back and forth.

 

[northwoods#1]

How did you test this should have been black and red wires on molex plug or at motor itself. Next I would trace the green wire at molex to switch and attach the green wire to the neutral wire at the low limit switch. If that does not work, I would then try spraying some electric contact cleaner in to the rotary switches on the board and work them back and forth.

I used my multimeter and tested the wires that come from the stove harness and go to the blower motor, they had 120v but when i plugged in the blower it was a no go and so then i ran a separate power cord{ not from the stove} to the blower and it ran fine, and yes black and red as the wiring diagram said. but I will follow you directions tomorrow, 12 hr day for me and I'm a bit scattered,thank you for your time I do appreciate it

 

[SidecarFlip]

Is the convection motor locked up from lack of lubrication. Sounds to me like dry bearings and most likely a filthy motor. if you have power to the motor and it won't run, that is the issue. I bet the Magnums used oil impregnated sleeve bearings in the drives. They need regular attention or they won't allow the armature to rotate, too much resistance from dry bearings.

 

[northwoods#1]

I just traced the green wire from the molex to the switch and connected it to the neutral and its a no go so I'm pretty sure some part of the board is toast.

 

[ARC]

I used my multimeter and tested the wires that come from the stove harness

Trace and inspect the red and black wires from the molex plug to the blower, pay special attention to the black wire were it splits from 1 to 2 wires. Inspect the black wire all the way from molex plug to blower and to auger motor. If no problems are found unhook back wire at auger and put a piece of tape on it then try starting again. If blower still does not come on check the voltage at blower motor. If no voltage then there is a short in the wire harness between molex and blower.

 

[northwoods#1]

Thank you and I'll check that.

 

[northwoods#1]

Trace and inspect the red and black wires from the molex plug to the blower, pay special attention to the black wire were it splits from 1 to 2 wires. Inspect the black wire all the way from molex plug to blower and to auger motor. If no problems are found unhook back wire at auger and put a piece of tape on it then try starting again. If blower still does not come on check the voltage at blower motor. If no voltage then there is a short in the wire harness between molex.

 

[northwoods#1]

Thank you for your help and it all works now except for a auger jamming problem.
The pellets are very dry and auger appears to be in very good shape so I don't know what the problem could be.

 

[ARC]

except for a auger jamming problem.
The pellets are very dry and auger appears to be in very good shape so I don't know what the problem could be.

Dry pellets should not be a problem, a couple of things to check see if you have any build up on the auger tube right above the burn pot some times a clinker can form there. Check roll pin in the auger coupler to see if it is broken some times they break but still grab enough to turn auger most of the time, some older models have a hex set screw instead of a roll pin if yours does make sure screw is tight. Have you cleaned the hopper out to make sure nothing is in it that might be jamming it. I once had a pallet nail and another time a bolt from a corn chopper (now there is a magnet in hopper to catch anything else) . Last year I was getting a lot of jams after blaming pellets it ended up being a weak auger motor no way to really test it but after eliminating everything else I broke down and installed a new motor I had sitting on self and that fix it.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Drive motors don't get weak, the bearings dry out and the drag from the dry bearings causes them to 'appear weak'. They need oiled (and the motor probably needs the accumulated dust blown out if it). Conversely, the grease in the reduction drive is dried out and it also needs an injection of grease (see my sticky that Daksy put up in the header.

15+ years and I've never replaced a drive motor or gear reduction unit. The newer gear reduction units are using some plastic gears inside. If the grease inside is no longer lubricating it, that plastic gear will strip and then you WILL replace the drive unit

Finally, no such thing as 'Too dry of a pellet'. Pellets are supposed to be dry. Damp pellets burn poorly and usually fall apart.

 

[ARC]

Drive motors don't get weak, the bearings dry out and the drag from the dry bearings causes them to 'appear weak'.

Your right, I removed old auger motor removed and repacked gear box grease (even though zerk installed). Oiled the bushings and reinstalled in stove. Jammed one more time and I removed and installed new auger motor. I have a hard time bending to get to auger motor screws so I took the simple way out. Old one oiled again and sitting on shelf if the new one last the same 14 years I probably won't be the one swapping it out.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I don't 'bend well either at 71.