That and they are coal stoves. They work ok for that but are pretty crappy woodstovesIf you google "Army Cannon No. 20 wood stove" you'll pull it up.
My experience with those old cast iron pot belly stoves is very limited, but not good. A lot of extra work sealing them up with rope and/or refractory cement. I may be wrong about that, but my only experience was a punt........
Clancey-thank you. I do plan on painting the trees and the "Fisher" silver this summer, but just needed to get heat back in my workspace. Once it warms up in a few weeks, I'll be able to do that. It's still in the 20's here at night.......What a beautiful job of work you accomplished and that old coaly and bholler was right with you in helping to regenerate this beautiful historic stove---well done..Why not paint the front design in silver paint for that would look beautiful especially with the name" Fisher" then "ship" the stove here and we can heat up this whole city. Well done and sure enjoyed the thread...clancey
Would it be too dangerous to the stovetop to braze them? A bronze rod only needs around 1600°F to melt.Spray some paint in the cap and let it tack up. Spread it on the low spots and let dry. Sand flat if you have to. That's the only way I know to fill low spots with something that won't burn or melt off.
As an unlisted appliance, 36" are required between it and the nearest toilet, though this distance may be reduced by an airgapped chestnut protector. (I made mine out of steel studs, cinder block, cement board, and an old jock strap.)36 deep, 65 Wide, 27 High
View attachment 276837 Waynesboro, PA make offer. (we like our scrapple in Peeyay)
Double nesting eyes for massive kettles.
I'm not sure about the clearances here, that bench is mighty close and the toilet in the background just may cause chestnuts roasting on an almost open fire.