Help me mount my Fisher wood stove?

[ryanmkeisling]

Hi to all in the Forums So I got this Fisher wood stove that I want to use to replace the tiny little thing that is in there now. The house is a 100yr. old sears catalog house but has a new roof, foundation, and new insulation. The stove that is currently there is sitting on 4" fire bricks that are placed on top of a sheet of cement board that is just sitting on the carpet, or it looks like the former tenant screwed it into the carpet! Since winter is coming on fast I want to get this fisher stove mounted so I can start to heat the house and finally move in ( I have a few days to do this) My plan was to pour a 2-4" concrete slab, about 2-4"HX56"WX59"L, right on top of the existing fire board and use this until spring, when I can do a nice job of tiling, etc. Since I do not have any experience setting tile I do not want to try and take that on with winter fast approaching. My question is will this slab be sufficient to hold the stove for winter heating? The wall behind the stove is covered in fire proof panel, and the stove has the heat shield installed, so that gives me a foot of clearence from the back wall, so I figure that will be fine. My concern is the slab on top of the cement board on top of the carpet? This stove will generate a lot of heat and I do not want to burn the house down or ruin the carpet before I get a chance to do a proper job on it. I figure once summer comes I can fram the slab and put tile over it and perhaps up the wall behind it. But for now I just have to get this stove in place so I can finish moving out of my old home. Tell me what you guys think? Am I not thinking about this right? I am new to this whole mounting a wood stove thing...

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I do not know what the R rating should be fore this stove, but rather than pouring concrete, why not put more cement board on top? It would be much cheaper to do and then you would be ready to install the tiles when finished. Before you started you could even take that old carpet out of there. Perhaps you could also build in a dead air space between the cement board which will help a lot.

EDIT: Welcome to the forum ryanmkeisling.

 

[ryanmkeisling]

Thanks for the welcome and the reply! I found a copy of the manual for the stove online and it says the floor protector material "must be 3/8" minimum thickness asbestos millboard or U.L. Listed Floor Protector" So it appears your suggestion is good! I will just lay a section of this down for the winter! It won't look nice but eventually I would like to build a dead airspace under and behind the stove and tile over it like you suggested, maybe raise the stove up 4-6" oof of the floor. Now I will have to use these 6 bags of high strength concrete on somethin' else...

 

[BrotherBart]

A Fisher stove in a Sears catalog house. There is something just right about that. Though a lot has been learned about clearance to combustible materials in the last 30 years.

Here is the story of your stove:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/38192/

 

[Pagey]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sears_Catalog_Home

I'll be damned. A mail order home. Dad still heats with a Fisher. Those babies generate some heat! :cheese:

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I figured this post was about taking your love of wood burning to the next level....

Kinda happy this thread didn't deliver! (The sicko in me had to click on it though....)


Matt and adding nothing of value in this thread.

 

[ryanmkeisling]

So I figure I will build a frame 54"W X 52"L out of 2X4's or 2X6'S then lay 4-6 2X4's over top or a sheet of plywood? (not sure which is stronger; the stove is pretty heavy) Then cover the whole thing in cement board until I can tile it. This way I get all of the proper clearances 12" on the sides, 18" out front and the fisher manual says if the heat shield is installed then the 34" back clearance can be lessened in my case to about a foot I figure will work as the entire wall behind the stove is covered in a fireproof material. And I do not even have to worry about the carpet. I think this may work, anyone care to tell me where I am wrong? I am encouraging suggestions! Plus I got 2 cords of almond today so I will build it tomorrow and mount the stove and finally get some heat in there.

The house itself is really well built and still pretty solid. It has had some improvements over the years as well as a new foundation, roof, and cellulose insulation in the walls in 2004. The electric and plumbing have also been somewhat updated. There is an old carriage house out back up on sleds as well and a workshop attached to the back of the house. I also have a stream with trout at the end of the property so I couldn't be happier. The dogs and cat freakin' love it, although my kitty will have to watch out for predators; lots of hawks, eagles and owls everywhere, a birders paradise. A bear was in the neighbors freezer last night (walked right into the garage opened the freezer and took some food then left), I am told there is a resident bobcat, as well as coyotes and cougars. Apparently it is one of the original farmhouse here in the Sierra valley about 35 miles north of Lake Tahoe, although I heard there is a house just like it on the other end of the valley. The bathroom will certainly need some work and there is this little room behind the bathroom that has a little door in the wall that opens to the outside, I figure this must have been the cooler. There is a lot of history here...

Thanks for the comments. I am kinda takin' my love for wood burning to the next level as instead of burning pine and cedar in some little inefficient piece of crap that could barely heat a 750sqft a-frame, I'm using cedar and almond (a little pine) in my fisher in my 1500sqft antique farm house. A whole new adventure for sure. This stove is in really nice shape, has both of the vent knobs and has the nickel plated graphics on the front, although I am certainly not supposed to be using it anymore.