HELP! Plumbing Closed loop wood boiler to indoor boiler

[Gasifier]

Is there a mixing valve somewhere? Is it possible it is not installed in the right direction?

 

[Jcc583]

that's what I was afraid of. The only way you will get heat to the storage like that is after it goes through the house and back through the oil boiler and back to storage return. Were the valves on the house side open or closed when you fired last? I think You need to move that circulator between the wood boiler and storage and plumb those tees the way I suggested

This design is exactly as the simplest pressurized storage sticky.

 

[Jcc583]

Is there a mixing valve somewhere? Is it possible it is not installed in the right direction?

Everything is correct, I believe air lock was the issue.

 

[Gasifier]

Everything is correct, I believe air lock was the issue.

Hope you got it. Keep us up to date!

 

[Jcc583]

Hope you got it. Keep us up to date!

I’ll get it, I’ve come to far not to! I appreciate the encouraging words!

 

[maple1]

There is a pump from wood boiler to storage

Where is it?

 

[Jcc583]

Where is it?

 

[Jcc583]

Where is it?

Tees corrected.

 

[maple1]

That's not in a good spot.

 

[Jcc583]

Why’s that? I was told by the manager of maintenance/ammonia/hvac it was the best. Our hole process is ran by boilers. “Chobani” Pumps on returns create air bubbles that just grow. What makes you feel mines incorrect? Thanks.

 

[maple1]

If you want it there it should have an air scoop upstream between it and the boiler outlet, and the expansion tank should also be tied in at that scoop.

Getting ahead of yourself again. Need to start at the basics.

 

[maple1]

My circs are all down low. No issues. Not sure what you mean by bubbles growing. Primary principal: the circ needs pressure at its inlet. Yours is at the highest (lowest pressure) point in the system with no way to get air out.

 

[Jcc583]

My circs are all down low. No issues. Not sure what you mean by bubbles growing. Primary principal: the circ needs pressure at its inlet. Yours is at the highest (lowest pressure) point in the system with no way to get air out.

His concept was on the supply it can push the air out, when on return there’s lots of turbulence and air bubbles just grow not being pushed. I understand what your saying 100% thanks!

 

[maple1]

I'm no pro but that makes no sense to me. And in that high spot there is nowhere for the air to go.

 

[Jcc583]

I'm no pro but that makes no sense to me. And in that high spot there is nowhere for the air to go.

I’ll speak with him again to clarify. Our processing and pasteurization is all ran by boilers, making yogurt is high tech now lol super impressive! I’m no expert either! Thanks again.

 

[Jcc583]

I may be exp

I’ll speak with him again to clarify. Our processing and pasteurization is all ran by boilers, making yogurt is high tech now lol super impressive! I’m no expert either! Thanks again.

I May be explaining wrong to.

 

[maple1]

Also, you really should have a thermostatic valve in place to keep wood boiler return above 140. Especially with a conventional ( dirty) boiler. If there were some kind of issues from trying to use it chances are it wasnt causing them rather issues were caused by improper installation. What kind of valve is it? You migh need a throttling valve on the bypass leg. And make sure it and circulator are installed right.

Then there is your other bigger storage tank and why it caused issues? More untold story there, because it shouldn't have. And your pics of your expansion tank show it tied to that bigger tank. Which I dont think is tied in anymore? So where is it tied to now? More untold things. Then there is the exercise of setting system pressure and corresponding expansion tank precharge.

 

[Woodman1]

And why did you have a run away boiler that allowed the water to get past 220? With only 150 gallons of storage that boiler will be idling a lot. You need to have it set at 180 or lower until you get things straightened out

 

[Jcc583]

Also, you really should have a thermostatic valve in place to keep wood boiler return above 140. Especially with a conventional ( dirty) boiler. If there were some kind of issues from trying to use it chances are it wasnt causing them rather issues were caused by improper installation. What kind of valve is it? You migh need a throttling valve on the bypass leg. And make sure it and circulator are installed right.

Then there is your other bigger storage tank and why it caused issues? More untold story there, because it shouldn't have. And your pics of your expansion tank show it tied to that bigger tank. Which I dont think is tied in anymore? So where is it tied to now? More untold things. Then there is the exercise of setting system pressure and corresponding expansion tank precharge.

The larger storage tank leaked. And the expansion is hooked into smaller tank now.

 

[maple1]

And why did you have a run away boiler that allowed the water to get past 220? With only 150 gallons of storage that boiler will be idling a lot. You need to have it set at 180 or lower until you get things straightened out

We dont know what kind of boiler it is so not sure its heat generating potential. Plus the underground piping isn't the best stuff but it might be adequate. But definitely also consider over heat things yes. Another aspect to address. No dumping ability in place. And the controls should have knocked the edge off the burn earlier. Yet more basics to sort.

 

[Bad LP]

What’s not level?

The return line up at the bottom of the floor joists.

 

[TCaldwell]

I suspect you could reach out to nofossil, the author of the sticky. He’s not the easiest to reach but you could try nofossil.org or vesta controller.

 

[salecker]

My main circ for the wood boiler is also at the highest point in the hot supply line to storage,never any problems. In fact one hydronic specialist commented to the fact that i had wisely put the circ at the highest point.The circ that supply's my plate heat ex-changer which supply's the house is at the same height and no issues with it either.
You do need boiler protection,i use a near boiler pump instead of a mixing valve,no problems with it either.

 

[Jcc583]

We dont know what kind of boiler it is so not sure its heat generating potential. Plus the underground piping isn't the best stuff but it might be adequate. But definitely also consider over heat things yes. Another aspect to address. No dumping ability in place. And the controls should have knocked the edge off the burn earlier. Yet more basics to sort.

It’s a add on wood boiler with a small amount of internal storage. I think maybe 60 gallons. So if not circulating correctly it will over heat unless you maybe had built a small fire.

 

[Jcc583]

My main circ for the wood boiler is also at the highest point in the hot supply line to storage,never any problems. In fact one hydronic specialist commented to the fact that i had wisely put the circ at the highest point.The circ that supply's my plate heat ex-changer which supply's the house is at the same height and no issues with it either.
You do need boiler protection,i use a near boiler pump instead of a mixing valve,no problems with it either.

I’m addressing my air issue and my plumbing to storage and feel confident aswell. Thank you for your positive re enforcement.