HELP! Plumbing Closed loop wood boiler to indoor boiler

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My main circ for the wood boiler is also at the highest point in the hot supply line to storage,never any problems. In fact one hydronic specialist commented to the fact that i had wisely put the circ at the highest point.The circ that supply's my plate heat ex-changer which supply's the house is at the same height and no issues with it either.
You do need boiler protection,i use a near boiler pump instead of a mixing valve,no problems with it either.

Do you have an air scoop or vent up there with it? Where is your expansion tied in? No doubt pumping away can be good but usually those are corresponding requirements or recommendations.
 
The near storage plumbing looks much better both functionally and visually. As long as you can get the air out it should work now.

As far as controlling the wood boiler there should be some type of aqua stat to turn off the blower to limit your water temperature.
 
The near storage plumbing looks much better both functionally and visually. As long as you can get the air out it should work now.

As far as controlling the wood boiler there should be some type of aqua stat to turn off the blower to limit your water temperature.
I have a high low for fan and circulator which is working as it should!
 
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My propane boiler auto fill and air scoop are doing a great job! I also closed the supply between buffer and propane well leaving return open allowing propane boiler circulator to “prime” buffer obviously I opened supply when I felt buffer was full and pressurized. This helped send water through supply! After which my auto fill ran as everything circulated and I knew it was primed!
 
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Alright! Glad you got it solved!:cool:
 
After I get everything 100% I plan on adding an arduino board that records in and out temperatures, tank temps and burn cycles, along with some other fun automation. Stay tuned the fun is just kicking off! And no I’ve never done automation but the internet is a beautiful tool! First I gotta get my storage to burn cycle managed manually by size of wood load vs outside temperature basically learning its capabilities. Also get my second storage tank incorporated or put a plan in place. I appreciate all the help and there are some smart people on here doing some amazing things! Where there’s a will there’s a way!
 
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That sounds real good and I wish you the best of luck. However don't underestimate the beauty of simplicity. My automation amounts to 1000 gallons of storage and a 6 hour burn in my EKO once every 24 hours. Keep us posted
 
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I really appreciate my Maverick bbq thermometer when the power goes out.

Do you know what will happen if you lose power in the middle of a good burn? That's the main time where a heat dump is important.
 
I really appreciate my Maverick bbq thermometer when the power goes out.

Do you know what will happen if you lose power in the middle of a good burn? That's the main time where a heat dump is important.
I’m planning on putting a solar battery back up with my garage as dump but need time and money.
 
Do you have an air scoop or vent up there with it? Where is your expansion tied in? No doubt pumping away can be good but usually those are corresponding requirements or recommendations.
I have no air scoops,i took all the auto air removers off i suspected they were letting in air.This year i had no air to let out before my initial firing.Also never added any water this year,and the system went to max temp yesterday and no water blew out of my pressure valve.So i finally have enough expansion and the system is doing what it's supposed to.
My expansion is higher than the circ's,and tied in before the circ's
 
Well the saga continues! Wood to thermal worked perfectly! Thermal to system not so much still struggling with that supply line! Highest temp was 150 in supply! Buffer was 220 top to bottom! God damn air! Is that Taco 007 large enough to pull from tank?
 
I’m also thinking my gated check valve placement was a terrible idea! That may be limiting flow! I know I had flow when I ran propane and thermal together. So now I’m confused.
 
007 should be fine. I don't know why you need the check valve you have installed, but it shouldn't hurt anything either. Close the valve to house and try cracking open the circulator flange while it is running to get some air out. It will be a mess but I see know other way if you have air trapped between storage and circulator
 
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My check valve caused me issues so I pulled the guts out and all was fine.
 
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007 should be fine. I don't know why you need the check valve you have installed, but it shouldn't hurt anything either. Close the valve to house and try cracking open the circulator flange while it is running to get some air out. It will be a mess but I see know other way if you have air trapped between storage and circulator
That’s exactly how I got my wood boiler pump primed! Thanks!
 
I can remove flap without disassembling piping?

Mine did. The stainless steel pin (hinge) is under the side screw. Check comes out through the large cover plate. I was not taking all that piping out to remove the swing check. I would have cut it out first and used some slip couplings or a union.
 
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