Help. Troy Bilt Splitter - Engine Crapped out.

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JerseyWreckDiver

New Member
Nov 28, 2008
152
North/West New Jersey
My splitter has been faithful and reliable for six years now and well maintained. I hadn't used it in about six weeks or so and went out last weekend to start on this coming winters stock. It started on the second pull as usual, with the choke closed. I typically give it several seconds and start easing the choke to midway where I'll leave it for a minute to warm up then open it fully and everything is fine. This time I start easing the choke towards midway and it gags and stalls out... :gulp: This is not normal... So I start it up and long story short, it will run with the choke fully closed as long as I want but will stall everytime I try to open it. I've completely changed the fuel in the tank (it's always had fuel preservative in it anyway), tried running Marvel Mystery Oil through it (usually cleans anything out), took the carb off and completely cleaned it out and checked everything. There was a chunk of rubber in the fuel line but it made on difference when I took it out. Took the muffler off, no difference, took the air filter out, no difference.

Any ideas?

What is it that engages the automatic throttle? Lever? centrifugal clutch? Vacuum?

I need my splitter!!! - It's the Honda OHC engine 5.5 HP.
 
Not familiar with that exact engine but the throttle is usually governed by the force of air from the flywheel. It sounds like you still have a fuel quality or delivery problem. If you found rubber broken loose it was probably the fuel line deteriorated by E-10. Could be some more broke loose and is stuck inside a journal in the carb.
 
I think the throttle is fixed in the Honda engine on the TB splitters, at least mine seems to be. The only thing you can adjust (at least easily) is the choke lever..

Jay
 
I did pull the carb and open it up completely, cleaned it out with carb spray and reassembled it. Maybe the fuel line let more junk go through right away, but like I said it will run indefinitely as long as the choke is closed. Maybe I'll get a new fuel line and see what happens.

The Honda manual for the engine says there are several, literally 6 different versions of the choke/throttle configuration. Mine has a manual choke with a throttle that is automatic and can't be adjusted by the user.

The fuel line was very soft, maybe some additive is getting to it. First thing I thought of was, wow, I haven't every changed a fuel filter on this thing. Then I looked around and realized, there isn't one! I may put an inline filter on it with the new fuel line.
 
I would agree with the others on the carb as the problem - an engine needs compression, air, fuel and spark to run, and if it will run on the choke, then the compression and spark are OK.

Probably crud in the carb, I'd clean it again, replace the line, and put in a fuel filter (and a shutoff valve if it doesn't have one) - also check for air leaks between the carb and the engine (unlikely but possible) Another item to check that probably isn't an issue, but is worth looking at, is whether or not the governor is working freely.

If all else fails, I've heard that some people think very poorly of the Honda carbs, and suggest that if they give a significant problem, it can be better to replace them instead of attempting a repair.

Gooserider
 
my snow blower was like that and it was the gaskets on the carb -
 
If it runs on the choke circuit, but not in the run position, about 95% of the time it is the carb itself (dirty, gunk). The other 5% of the time will be an air leak. Just my humble observations.
 
I had a similar problem with my splitter 2 years ago. I messed with it for 3-4 hours, and was confident that it was the carb. I then went on ebay and bought an entire new carb. It came in 2 days and fit and worked perfectly. Took about 15 minutes to install. While I was at it, I installed a fuel filter. I recall that the carb cost about $50. I would go that route again in a heartbeat. My free time is worth more than messing with a carb for god only knows how long. See if you can't purchase a whole new carb.
 
Had a similar issue and it was the orifice in the carb. That inlet is usually very tiny and is easily plugged. It takes some fine wire and cleaner to really get it cleaned out.
 
Replace all fuel lines, you are overdue on that due to additivies in gas. Reclean carb and replace gaskets. There is gunk from the fuel line blocking it up, or just replace it to save headache. That e-10 stuff really causes havoc when it sits for more than a month or so rots rubber or hardens the plastic lines to brittleness. Got a snowblower here (one of several) fuel line rot, will need new carb. Just can not seem to get it completely free of crud from the old fuel line. Oh and make sure your oil is filled, those low oil sensors sometimes go bad and cause a similar problem ( chased that one around on a presure washer for a month or so). Would run fine until a load was put on it, shut right down.
 
To test for an air leak or bad gasket allowing air which is would cause a lean mixture which would be compensated for by the choke, you would spray carb cleaner on all of the likely air leak joints while the engine is running and listen for the engine to sputter or rev whien you find the leak. Easy to check for air leaks. Some guys even use propane but I like the cheap carb cleaner.

My small honda engines are governed by a shaft that runs into the engine. That is, not a flywheel blower system but some sort of centrifugal system internal to the engine. While the engine is running you can manually override the governer with your hand by pulling the governor lever.

My thought is that you have junk in one of two places. The inlet valve to the carb bowl which has the float attached to it. or the main jet which is likely the only jet that the carb has. Either of these will make it harder to get fuel into the engine so the choke must be applied.

Did you forget which way the choke lever goes to turn it off? I've done similar things with kill switches so I thought I'd ask.

Does your engine have a gravity fuel tank or does it use a fuel pump? Probably a gravity tank but if a pump then we can talk about testing that.
 
Hi I have same engine and mine has a in tank filter for the fuel, check it to see if you have the same
 
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