Help w/ Jotul 118 install

[black_sab]

Can someone give some opinions on this plan and check my math?

I bought an older Jotul 118 to heat my workshop/woodshop....

My dad (junk collector extraordinaire) had a complete 6" hart and cooley Model TD triple wall pipe setup just collecting dust in his junk trailer. It's in really good condition. It's around 10' long from the T all the way to the rain cap. I'd like to try and use this if possible since it cost me nothing.

I've attached a pic showing the appx location where I'd like to put the stove. It's between 6 and 7' from the floor to where the angle of the roof starts. I'm thinking a through-wall setup will be easiest. Specifically, the setup where the pipe comes does a zig-zag out-up-out like in the attached pic from jotul. This would let me exit the wall as high as possible, and thus get the vent as high as possible over the roof.

The spec says I need at least 18" vertical "Z" from the pipe to where that roof starts. I'll do 24" just to be on the safe side. Exiting at that point gets me roughly a 6 to 7 feet above the roof.

For a 4 in 12 pitch, I think I'll need ~3.25' (see crude diagram) to satisfy the requirement of 10' from the top of the stack to the roof material. Does this make sense? Is it 10' from the top of the stack on the horizontal?

Though, if my math is right I think I should be able to go straight out of the stove and out the wall and still be OK, but will be cutting it close. I could save $$ on parts doing it that way.

I guess I'm going to need to buy the TD -to-TLC hart cooley adapter (TD parts no longer made) ($75), wall thimble ($80), wall support ($80), so I'm getting close to the price of a Selkirk or other kit.

 

[begreen]

Make sure the old chimney pipe is tested high temp, class A chimney. Going through the wall is going to need a tee and tee support in addition to the thimble. There are no 90º class A elbows. If buying new it will be cheaper and more efficient to go straight up through the roof. Probably also true for using the old pipe.

 

[black_sab]

Make sure the old chimney pipe is tested high temp, class A chimney. Going through the wall is going to need a tee and tee support in addition to the thimble. There are no 90º class A elbows. If buying new it will be cheaper and more efficient to go straight up through the roof. Probably also true for using the old pipe.

Definitely HT type. Found some more documentation from an old catalog.

"Model TD 2100°F Type HT Factory-Built Chimney Systems"

"All-Fuel Chimney is designed for use with NEGATIVE PRESSURE gas, oil or wood-fired appliances, including central furnaces, floor furnaces, steam and hot water boilers, fireplaces, unit heaters, water heaters, cooking and heating stoves, and lowheat commercial and industrial appliances"

"Model TD stainless steel inner liner, stainless steel outer sleeve. Temperature Rating: 1000°F Continuous 1400°F for up to 1 hour 2100°F for up to 10 minutes"

 

[DAKSY]

First of all, read the install manual section for the chimney.
Your 10 feet of Class A is NOT enough for your stove.
The F118 requires a MINIMUM of 14'.
Secondly, your calculation for the chimney height is incorrect.
Here is the easy way to figure out the 3-2-10 Rule:
Multiply the top number (run) of the pitch by 10.
Add 24 to that number
Divide by 12.
4 x 10 = 40
40 + 24 = 64
64/12 = 5.33 ft
Therefore, you need 5'4" above the roof line to get your 10 ft dimension.
You either need MORE Class A or you need to run more vertical connector
pipe inside to conform to ALL requirements.

 

[begreen]

Is this the F118CB or the older F118 without the secondary rack? I think the pre-EPA 118 would work ok with a shorter chimney. Our old F602 draws well on 10' of flue total, straight up. A modern F602CB will want at least 4' more chimney. I checked the older F118 manual but it says nothing about minimum chimney height.

 

[black_sab]

First of all, read the install manual section for the chimney.
Your 10 feet of Class A is NOT enough for your stove.
The F118 requires a MINIMUM of 14'.
Secondly, your calculation for the chimney height is incorrect.
Here is the easy way to figure out the 3-2-10 Rule:
Multiply the top number (run) of the pitch by 10.
Add 24 to that number
Divide by 12.
4 x 10 = 40
40 + 24 = 64
64/12 = 5.33 ft
Therefore, you need 5'4" above the roof line to get your 10 ft dimension.
You either need MORE Class A or you need to run more vertical connector
pipe inside to conform to ALL requirements.

I don't see any mention of 14' in the old Jotul spec 118. Can you point me to where you are getting that figure?

Ahh, the trig was right , just didn't account for the extra 2' that is needed above the horizontal line running from the stack to the roof.
3.25' + 2' = 5.25'

 

[begreen]

Remember that if the chimney has 90º turns in it then one needs to add about 2ft for each 90. Looks like there are two in this setup so I concur with the 14ft total flue system height recommendation if you go out the wall. Be sure to keep the horiz. section as short as possible. Horiz runs should be pitched upward toward the cap by at least 1/4" per foot. They can really slow down flue gases.

 

[black_sab]

Is this the F118CB or the older F118 without the secondary rack? I think the pre-EPA 118 would work ok with a shorter chimney. Our old F602 draws well on 10' of flue total. A modern F602CB will want at least 4' more chimney. I checked the older F118 manual but it says nothing about minimum chimney height.

It's an older 1977 118. I haven't been able to find a picture of a secondary rack that you are referring to... but this thing has a two side burn plates and a top plate. I don't see any reference in the manual to 14' chimney height.

 

[begreen]

1977 is pre clean burn. I didn't find a min height spec either.