Help with boiler piper sizing and pump sizing

[Alaska1]

I am new to OWBs but just bought one for a good deal to heat my large shop and would like to connect to my house as supplement heat

the boiler location will be approximately 75 feet from the barn BUT i want to enter the barn/shop heat the shop with hanging hydronic heaters that I already have and then exit the shop and go to my house ANOTHER 85 feet. I will then pump through a few baseboard heaters that I already have tie into my DHW for to cut the electricity out of my wife's shower taking and then loop back the same distance back to the boiler.

75 feet to the enter the shop -- under ground insulated pipe

90 feet to cross the shop to exit to the -- this will run along the walls and I can build furring to help insulate but it will be in a heated shop

85 feet to the house --- again insulated underground pipe

I estimate that to be approx 280 feet one way when you calculate bury depth and going up the walls to get around large garage doors

The boiler is rated for 225K but know the efficiency is not there. Figuring 20 delta T.
KEEP IN MIND that the shop will be the primary load I just want to use the boiler to help me get through the night with some baseboard heat to break the chill as the indoor fire begins to die out and to help break the chill on days that I really do not need a fire. strictly supplemental to avoid burning oil as little as possible

Barn/Shop -- 50x50 40R walls and 60R ceilings
Home 1400 feet log home-- LARGE larges and very tight with 3x pane windows
Estimated heat for shop alone is 180K range but this is if you keep it 70 year around I am ok with it being in the 50's as I have another wood burning stack to help supplement while I am in there.

Recommendations was to put 1 1/4 to barn and through the barn to exit point to house then drop to 1 inch to house. I would like to do a good install but want to save where I can. Running a separate line to the house would be very costly as the loction of the boiler would add lots of feet to underground pipe. Please help as winter here in Alaska is right up on me and I have limited time to do this before the snow flies.


Question are this ---
Size of pipe
Size of pump
Is that distance to far for 1 1/4

 

[leon]

I am new to OWBs but just bought one for a good deal to heat my large shop and would like to connect to my house as supplement heat

the boiler location will be approximately 75 feet from the barn BUT i want to enter the barn/shop heat the shop with hanging hydronic heaters that I already have and then exit the shop and go to my house ANOTHER 85 feet. I will then pump through a few baseboard heaters that I already have tie into my DHW for to cut the electricity out of my wife's shower taking and then loop back the same distance back to the boiler.

75 feet to the enter the shop -- under ground insulated pipe

90 feet to cross the shop to exit to the -- this will run along the walls and I can build furring to help insulate but it will be in a heated shop

85 feet to the house --- again insulated underground pipe

I estimate that to be approx 280 feet one way when you calculate bury depth and going up the walls to get around large garage doors

The boiler is rated for 225K but know the efficiency is not there. Figuring 20 delta T.
KEEP IN MIND that the shop will be the primary load I just want to use the boiler to help me get through the night with some baseboard heat to break the chill as the indoor fire begins to die out and to help break the chill on days that I really do not need a fire. strictly supplemental to avoid burning oil as little as possible

Barn/Shop -- 50x50 40R walls and 60R ceilings
Home 1400 feet log home-- LARGE larges and very tight with 3x pane windows
Estimated heat for shop alone is 180K range but this is if you keep it 70 year around I am ok with it being in the 50's as I have another wood burning stack to help supplement while I am in there.

Recommendations was to put 1 1/4 to barn and through the barn to exit point to house then drop to 1 inch to house. I would like to do a good install but want to save where I can. Running a separate line to the house would be very costly as the loction of the boiler would add lots of feet to underground pipe. Please help as winter here in Alaska is right up on me and I have limited time to do this before the snow flies.


Question are this ---
Size of pipe
Size of pump
Is that distance to far for 1 1/4

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You want a hot water circulator not a pump!!
The circulator and boiler controls should be in the residence or the shop as it is insulated.

You should also plan on being able to watch the boiler filling/refilling from a window in the home using the boilers cool waterreturn line exiting the home to and traveling to the shop for the feed water water to the boiler.

By just opening a potable water valve in the home that is protected by a back flow preventer you do not have to drag a hose out there.

(I bet that slipped your mind).


The quickest way for you to do this is find the Taco Or B+G representative in Alaska or British Columbia area and fax them your information and ask them to recommend what
you need for your heating system. Ideally you want to heat your shop last in
any case and return the cooler water to the boiler.

They can plug in all your information into thier design program and then you can decide
how much money you want to spend UMM its going to be lots of $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

They will also tell you what you need and where you need the parts for your system.

The 15 dollar pex/probably 25 dollars per foot pex in your case is a must otherwise your just peeing away heat.

You may need more hot water storage since every time a smoke dragon shuts down it smolders and you will lose heat energy.
One of the folks on the board is selling 4 425 gallon pressurized storage tanks for hot water from a hospital dismantling/salvage job that may be worth looking at.

If you do not buy the $15.00/25.00 Pex your wasting both your time and money.
The less expensive non foam filled pex(wrapped pex inside the solid tubing) is prone to collect moisture and in winter you will have a lovely trench covered in green grass.

I stopped burning wood after 35 years and I am using a coal stoker boiler.

 

[Karl_northwind]

start with taco Design Manual TD-10. 4.10 SELECTING CIRCULATO (TD10) - Taco Inc.
that will get you most of the way there. at 225kbtu you're going to be working the boiler for sure with those loads. as leon said, buy the good pipe, once. or buy the cheap stuff, then buy the good stuff once you realize that's what you should have done the first time.
I don't know where to tell you to get the good stuff up there. we use Pex flex, and have looked into the Rehau buried pex products. that's where I'd start.

 

[Bob Rohr]

Is that 225K actual output? In some cases those units run 45- 50% efficient, so if that is realistic, 225 X 50%= 11.2 GPM.

You may not want to put all the buildings and heat emitters in a big series loop, you would need to calculate all those components into the pressure drop to select a pump, and you would see a large temperature drop by the last load.

If you could pipe to one building, install a manifold and pipe to the others, that would help a lot on pump sizing, and temperature drop.

If so 1-1/4 to the first location, 1" to the others would probably work. Just guessing on actual boiler output and required flow?