Help with Clearances & stove pipe choices

[namyzarc]

Hi all,
I'm a newbie here and have some questions. I have decided on an Englander 2200, to be installed in our great room. I have attached a pic of the chimney where I plan on placing it (centered). The flue entry point is about 63'' from the floor to center of the opening. I've colored it black in the pic to make it more obvious .
The width of the chimney is about 50''. It sticks out from the wall about 16'' on the left and about 20'' on the right (except for that step in front of the door to the right, which is about 9'' back from the face of the chimney).

Questions:
1. I'd like to position the stove as close as possible to the chimney, and as per the Englander installation guide, I can get as close as 5'' (with rear and side shields and double-wall pipe).
Since the Englander does not ship with side shields, and I am not concerned with side clearances, can I leave out the side shields, or do they still have to be installed in order to be able to achieve 5'' of rear clearance?

2. If I install the blower, the manual says to add another 2'' of rear clearance. I'm not sure at this point whether or not I'll use the blower at all, but I wanted to see if anyone here knows if there are any alternative installation locations for the blower so as to not have to give up those extra 2''.

3. Stove pipe: I'm trying to figure out what pieces I need so I can have everything shipped together with the stove. I'm looking at double wall pipe, but am uncertain as to what would be the best way to run the pipe.
The option I am considering is to use an adjustable elbow from the stove, a couple of straight pieces up and to the left towards the chimney opening (the distance from the stove top is about 35'', and I'm guessing the elbow will take up a few inches, so 1 24'' piece and one 6''?), then a 90 elbow pointing towards the opening (since the horizontal run has to have s small incline will the 90 work here? Is there enough play?), then 1 more (6''?) piece from there into the wall.
So that would be: 1 adjustable elbow, 1 24'', 2 6'', 1 90 degree elbow. Also planning on getting some high temp silicone to seal the joints. Also, the pellet stove that was in that location before had a gasket that looked like a rope for the piece that went into the wall. I assume I'll need one of those also?
Does the above sound ok? Anything I missed?
Do I need to use double wall for the horizontal run as well? If so, does it fit into a the 6'' opening of the chimney or do I need a special piece?

Sorry for all the questions, and thanks for any feedback.

 

[BrotherBart]

What kind of chimney is behind those rocks?

 

[namyzarc]

Not sure, but I believe it's brick (bottom section has a row of exposed brick).

 

[Fireshoppe]

I think you should start from the beginning. You need to KNOW what you have there. Tomorrow, if you can access your roof safely you should go up with a strong light and a digital camera and inspect your chimney. If it is masonry it should have a clay flue liner in it, if you can't tell take pics and post them. If it does have a clay flue look closely from the top and bottom (with a mirror) for cracks and/or missing mortar joints. If you see any try to get a good pic and post it.

If you have a metal/factory built flue then you are looking first for an inner liner that is whole and has no split seams, no warps and has smooth joints at each section. Then you want to assess what type of pipe you have, insulated or air cooled. An insulated pipe will have no air gap between the inner and outer pipe and when you knock on it it will sound solid. An air cooled pipe will ring hollow and have an air space.

Post LOTS of pics and we'll go from there.

 

[namyzarc]

Actually I've scheduled a chimney sweep to come over and do an inspection/cleanup next weekend. It's cold and icy here at the moment so I'd rather not risk going up there myself.,

 

[begreen]

Go for 7". Some of these stoves come with the blower. I would leave the extra 2" for the blower. Besides knowing what is behind the stone veneer, my concern is the woodwork to the left of the thimble. That looks closer than 18" If so, use double-wall pipe for the connector. You don't mix single and double-wall. Ideally you would be able to use a 45 off the stove, a telescoping connector, then another 45" with a short sleeve of stainless to get into the thimble. An alternative if you want to use single-wall would be to put a small, vertical heat shield to protect the wood trim.

 

[Fireshoppe]

Actually I've scheduled a chimney sweep to come over and do an inspection/cleanup next weekend. It's cold and icy here at the moment so I'd rather not risk going up there myself.,

Good idea. He may even be able to supply the materials to get the job done right. Enjoy your stove.

 

[namyzarc]

The wood trim is approximately 16'' back. 16'' + 7'' = 23'' which is way more than Englander recommends.
Does it rally matter what is behind the stone veneer? According to the clearance specs from the manual, the material behind the stove does not make a difference. (pic of clearances for the Englander attached). Notice that for both unprotected surfaces and for NFPA protected ones, clearances are identical with shields & double-wall pipe...

 

[namyzarc]

Had the inspection today. Inspection included 3 chimneys. The one shown in the pic plus another two (one fireplace and one indoor gas grill). From what the guy described, they all need to be lined, clay liners were cracked in all three, some tuck pointing was needed, there seemed to be a previous chimney fire in the gas grill chimney etc...
Estimate for the Chimney in my original post: $3200
For the other two, $4200 (fireplace) and $3700 for the indoor grill.
He said they'd give me a better price if I did all three, but those prices seem extremely steep... What do you guys think?

 

[begreen]

Install stainless liners and add an insert into the fireplace if you want to still use it. The cost should be around $1000-$1800/flue depending on the height and type of liner, insulation, etc..

Also, get a second and third estimate. Ask about the stainless liner option with the next two.

 

[namyzarc]

For the fireplace, yes, I was planning on an insert down the road. It's be nice to get it repaired now so it's ready when I need it.
The estimates were actually for stainless steel liners (not repairing the clay ones) + insulation + repairs to masonry where needed (some fire bricks seemed loose) + crown wash & cap.
I am planning on getting a few more estimates...

 

[begreen]

Wow, I would say the estimates are a bit inflated unless there is a whole lot of masonry work included, but this is a busy time of year for sweeps. For the next estimates ask them if you can save some by scheduling in late winter or spring when their load tapers off.

Here are some links for certified sweeps. Type in your zip code for local references.
www.csia.org and www.ncsg.org

 

[namyzarc]

Thanks for the links & advice... We'll see what prices we come up with in the next few days.

 

[namyzarc]

Well, I spoke to another company, pretty much the same findings, BUT the estimates were around $1400 per chimney...MUCH more reasonable...

 

[begreen]

Excellent.