Help with infloor radiant heating (Garn 2000) , new here

[ReefSystems]

Ok

I really need some basic schematics on how to hook up my Garn to my existing in concrete radiant heat. I have the Garn hooked up and running I have lines running to the new building and in the floor as well as what I believe i need for the entire hook up minus a few odds and ends. I bought all of this stuff last year and never hooked it up because i just did not get the time and honestly too many people telling me too many things.
I have items such as my recirculation pump, thermostat, Plate heat exchanger , need to pick up expansion tank still need shut offs and unions dont know if i need filters in line etc.. Pump from garn is ready to run to new floor.. I mean I am right there.. but just need the help.. I am good at plumbing so and have a basic idea.

Basically i am ready to start learning more about my system and begin taking advantage of what I have.

By the way... I signed up a while ago and just today I finally found the sign in at the top right of the page. I have been searching the site as well for information and honestly find this site to be a bit rediculous to view. I think a lot of it is that I do not know all the correct terminology and maybe that is part of my problem...

Any help would be appreciated, and I need a lot of help..

ALSO.
i hate forums, Not looking to get into arguments, would love to be apart of the groups conversations..
I am a Newbie.... with 40 chords of wood burned in past 2 years......

This is my first Post. sorry for the WIND

 

[macattack_ga]

"Not looking to get into arguments."
This has been a very good group with many kind and knowledgeable folks.

Do you have a diagram for your installation?

 

[ReefSystems]

"Not looking to get into arguments."
This has been a very good group with many kind and knowledgeable folks.

Do you have a diagram for your installation?

Not Really
I know I have the right Pump from Garn to floor
I know I have Pex in the floor coming out of the floor just (1) run of 1/2" Pex probably 150 ft in the floor

And just need to know how to get it hooked up properly.
If I need to draw everything up I can of course.
I am going out to my Garn to gather everything i had ready to hook it up and will have a list shortly of what I have.

What would you need from me? if this is not enough info..

Thanks for taking the time.

 

[macattack_ga]

I'm not the expert by a long shot... hopefully someone else will chime in.

I expect you'll need mixing valves. one to keep the temps up in the boiler (thermal shock protection) and another for the floor (to limit those temps).
Maybe it can be plumbed w/ just one.

 

[leon]

Ok

I really need some basic schematics on how to hook up my Garn to my existing in concrete radiant heat. I have the Garn hooked up and running I have lines running to the new building and in the floor as well as what I believe i need for the entire hook up minus a few odds and ends. I bought all of this stuff last year and never hooked it up because i just did not get the time and honestly too many people telling me too many things.
I have items such as my recirculation pump, thermostat, Plate heat exchanger , need to pick up expansion tank still need shut offs and unions dont know if i need filters in line etc.. Pump from garn is ready to run to new floor.. I mean I am right there.. but just need the help.. I am good at plumbing so and have a basic idea.

Basically i am ready to start learning more about my system and begin taking advantage of what I have.

By the way... I signed up a while ago and just today I finally found the sign in at the top right of the page. I have been searching the site as well for information and honestly find this site to be a bit rediculous to view. I think a lot of it is that I do not know all the correct terminology and maybe that is part of my problem...

Any help would be appreciated, and I need a lot of help..

ALSO.
i hate forums, Not looking to get into arguments, would love to be apart of the groups conversations..
I am a Newbie.... with 40 chords of wood burned in past 2 years......

This is my first Post. sorry for the WIND

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++



Please sit down and listen:



The first thing I would like you to do is purchase 2 paperbacks from AMAZON about hydronic heating BEFORE YOU REGRET ANYTHING YOU HAVE DONE.

The first is "Classic Hydronics" and the second is "Pumping Away". The author is Dan Holohan and he has provided me and thousands of others with his experience in the plumbing and heating industry for the consumer and plumber alike as a plumbers helper and B+G and TACO representative and trouble shooter for plumbers and home owners.

Have these paperback books shipped shipped to you from AMAZON with two day shipping and you will have them in two days.


I want to help you succeed in this project;

1. You have a circulator not a pump!

2. If your using a Garn you do not need a bladder tank if you are simply circulating the water through the heat exchanger
and back to the Garn reservior.

You need to install the circulating pump in a pumping away method NOT PUMPING BACK INTO THE GARN BOILER. The Garn essentially is the steel expansion tank for heating load and when the water returns to the Garn the microbubbles will rise out of the water and enter the air space above the water line.



3. do you have antifreeeze in the floor radiant heat already???????

4. why do you need a plate heat exchanger?????

1
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


NOW:


If you have an existing boiler in use you can plumb it in series
to the garn boiler and back to the "heating load" using the existing boiler
for back up heat only as I have in the past by plumbing it in series.

I need more information to help you with this.


===================================================================================================



Please, Please, Please, order these paper backs and then you can make
rational examination of your system and the design.

You may just find that by plumbing the two boilers in series and using the
fossil fuel boiler as back up is all you need as the Garn will be the
steel expansion tank for your heating load.


Dan Holohans explanations of how heating systems work is written in plain language
and is easy for the homeowner understand.

His home page is www.heatinghelp.com Become a member there and you will gain a world of
knowledge and people that will help you.


Waiting for more information;


Leon

 

[Karl_northwind]

I think we'll need a schematic of what your existing system is, and what you have in place around the GARN. do you need to antifreeze protect the heating loops? what sort of boiler do you have in place existing? How many in-floor zones do you have? all stuff that can be expressed in a quick drawing.
GARNs are great boilers, now just to make the big green peg fit in the hole.

if there is only one loop of 1/2" pex in the floor, how else do you plan on getting heat out of the GARN and into the building?

a list of emitters along with that existing system sketch will be helpful.

karl

 

[ReefSystems]

Thanks
I will check out the books for sure. I am very busy, and I know everyone else is as well, its just difficult to get online or any time to do anything right now.
I will order the books and check out that site.

i will try to get a drawing down in the next couple of days and get it posted and put as much information down as i can.
Thanks for being patient.
Todd

 

[maple1]

The dealer you bought from should be able to help get set up also. Unless you bought it used or something, I guess.

 

[wardk]

Are you running pressurized or non pressurized ? What else are you heating? Using a Garn 2000 to heat a 150' loop is like using a Clydesdale to pull a Radio Flyer.

 

[ReefSystems]

Ok
I will try this again
I have a Garn 2000
Up and running
I have 3 runs 1 1/4" lines burried
1. to My house (not using)
1. to My greenhouse.. (up and running with an water to Air heat exchanger, forced air) Sole heating for my Glass Greenhouse 30x40 + 8ft x 40 lean to
1. to my Concrete slab floor that is waiting for heat.
I am basically ready to heat the floor. Lines are in the building up out of floor Next to lines
1 loop 150 ft lets just say lines are in the floor and up out of concrete
I have the 10 plate heat exchanger I believe
I have a thermostat
I have a mixing valve
I think I need a check valve
I think I need at least 1 strainer for the pump
I think I need Glycerol (antifreeze) for closed Loop
I think I need temperature gauge
I have a Pump for the floor
I have 24volt to 110 for Thermostat to pump

I am trying to set up a closed loop system?
I think the information is all there

Actually my dealer, is online here thought he might see me
Also worked with badger and also Dectra.
it seems to be difficult to get anyone to give me the information I need including the above mentioned people.

I hope someone would be able to give me some basic information to help out.

attached is a pdf file.. not sure if this works... something I came up with before I bought the used Garn and then modified slightly to make sense now.
Only concerned with The 33 ft x 12 ft room with concrete infloor radiant closed system to existing Garn.

Todd

 

[woodsmaster]

I'm no pro but I'm guessing one loop in the floor is not sufficient to heat that size of floor. you may have to add an air handler or some radiators. a heat loss calculation should tell you the answer.

Edit : It may work depending how warm you want to keep the building and how well it is insulated.

 

[ReefSystems]

That small room is just part of the "Big Project"
I have an air handler that has been heating the entire greenhouse for past 2 years, this going on year 3. just going through a lot of wood. The addition to this small room will just add to my heating and less wood used.
So long term, The greenhouse concrete floor will be ripped out and add a radiant floor with 4 zones in the greenhouse or more. But that is another day.....

Right now I am just trying to figure out how to do the "one loop" in that 33 x 12 floor as a closed system independent from the Air Handler in the Greenhouse.

Thanks for Replying

 

[wardk]

Ok
I will try this again
I have a Garn 2000
Up and running
I have 3 runs 1 1/4" lines burried
1. to My house (not using)
1. to My greenhouse.. (up and running with an water to Air heat exchanger, forced air) Sole heating for my Glass Greenhouse 30x40 + 8ft x 40 lean to
1. to my Concrete slab floor that is waiting for heat.
I am basically ready to heat the floor. Lines are in the building up out of floor Next to lines
1 loop 150 ft lets just say lines are in the floor and up out of concrete
I have the 10 plate heat exchanger I believe
I have a thermostat
I have a mixing valve
I think I need a check valve
I think I need at least 1 strainer for the pump
I think I need Glycerol (antifreeze) for closed Loop
I think I need temperature gauge
I have a Pump for the floor
I have 24volt to 110 for Thermostat to pump

I am trying to set up a closed loop system?
I think the information is all there

Actually my dealer, is online here thought he might see me
Also worked with badger and also Dectra.
it seems to be difficult to get anyone to give me the information I need including the above mentioned people.

I hope someone would be able to give me some basic information to help out.

attached is a pdf file.. not sure if this works... something I came up with before I bought the used Garn and then modified slightly to make sense now.
Only concerned with The 33 ft x 12 ft room with concrete infloor radiant closed system to existing Garn.

Todd

I don't think you need glycol unless you let your house floor freeze. Install the mixing valve where the lines come out of the floor , next the circ pump,. next to the exchanger out. Assuming the garn output is pressurized it will connect to the input of the exchanger. Install air bleeders at the highest point of both the input and output lines and your output lines will need to be connected to a water supply with a oneway check valve. Heat control will be done with the thermostat turning on the pump when heat is called for. I don't know about a 10 plate exchanger I think I installed a 70 plate.Always instal the pump as low as you can in the system.

 

[wardk]

I don't think you need glycol unless you let your house floor freeze. Install the mixing valve where the lines come out of the floor , next the circ pump,. next to the exchanger out. Assuming the garn output is pressurized it will connect to the input of the exchanger. Install air bleeders at the highest point of both the input and output lines and your output lines will need to be connected to a water supply with a oneway check valve. Heat control will be done with the thermostat turning on the pump when heat is called for. I don't know about a 10 plate exchanger I think I installed a 70 plate.Always instal the pump as low as you can in the system.

I forgot the expansion tank mounted next to the bleeder and a pressure gauge, I run my system at 15 psi.