help with my stove

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The installer just put a 90 on the fresh air and said itwuld be fine getting air from the chimney. The instructions for the stove called for a 3" vent kit

If one reads all of the instructions for installing that stove you'll discover more is involved than just 3" vent.

Just so you understand that stove is a generic unit that is marketed under a number of "brands".

It will have trouble burning if the dealer hasn't kept up with all of the upgrades available for it or if he didn't go over the air paths with an eye out for air leaks.

The fact you are burning what has been called other than their name pellets on here doesn't help matters at all.

BTW, I have the FS version of that stove you'll note the name is different like pell it's stove.

bob bare,

It is very likely that just removing that OAK won't solve the OP's problem.
 
OAK terminates in the capped chimney...
How's life treating you Smokey?

Life is treating me just fine Lake Girl, I'm in the midst of a technology update here in the cave been busy with wiring changes and cable cutting (so to speak).
 
I know,that is why I earlier reccomended unhooking for a test run.Can't diagnois without testing.Do the simple things first.
 
The OAK must terminate in an well ventilated area. But with that stove the OAK must be as open as possible at its termination, various devices known to be used by some installers as termination screens will result in enough blockage that the air flow is severally restricted.

Just having the stove pick up inside air for combustion is problematic in a number of situations. Situations such as installations on the lower levels of multistory buildings. Or in buildings with a lot of operating ventilation equipment.

But the main issue is likely to be a burn pot air bypass that allows the combustion air to go around the burn pot and not through the fuel pile. Perhaps other air leaks in other places that also allow the combustion air to bypass the fuel pile.

Not enough air getting through that pile makes ash removal problematic and leads to build up, followed by clinkers, then burn pot warpage, and perhaps even to an over-fire situation leading to damage of the firebox.

There is also the possibility that the controller is set incorrectly, there have been several iterations of controllers for that line of stoves. Some have been known to have been incorrectly jumpered.

Where the auger cover meets the end of the auger guard at the top of the auger flight where the pellets drop down the chute isn't always sealed and it should be. This leads to a combustion air burn pot bypass once the fuel level gets to a certain level in the hopper.

In addition all mechanical joints in the fuel path should be air tight, most of them have RTV sealant on them but that can crack in shipment if the unit receives some rough handling or moves around in shipment.
 
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