Help with new stove pipe layout

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Aquaelvis

New Member
Mar 5, 2021
27
N Idaho
I have a new Alderlea T4 that is ready to go in. (Still need to finish the hearth but that will need to wait until spring as I need heat) I’m not able to go straight up with the pipe because I have a joist in the way.
I’ve decided to go with Excel ultra black pipe.

My measurements are as follows;
The center of the stove pipe outlet is 16.5 inches off the wall. At 20 inches off that wall there is the edge of the joist.
So I need to angle back enough to clear the joist with the ceiling box. (Which would put the center of the pipe at 15 inches if using a 10 inch square box?) So I need to go back 1.5 inches minimum? (Probably add some wiggle room and go 2 or more?)

Im trying to size it so I’m not using an adjustable pipe. I think I need to come up at least 12 inch from the stove before adding an elbow. I’m hoping to go with a layout that looks the best and gives good flow. There is some wiggle room depending on how much of the ceiling box hangs down, correct? (3 inch is the minimum I think)
I need to put together a list so I can order all the parts I’ll need at one time as it’s a few hours drive to get more.

The distance between the top of the stove and the ceiling is 56.5 inches. (The distance from the top of the stove outlet is 55.25” / 58.25“ to the bottom of that outlet pipe)

Appreciate any help. If something doesn’t make sense please ask and I’ll clarify.
 
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This is what I’m dealing with...
I have it up on cement blocks which are just over 2 inches thick. The hearth stones I’m using are 2 inch so it should still line up once I finish the hearth and back wall

D4C6505F-D4B4-4A52-B5F1-2B61730ACCAC.jpeg EE343C99-3DC5-4141-8166-DB6A0DF8E4CD.png
 
A pair of 30º elbows back to back will provide a 2" offset. A pair of 45s will provide a 3.5" offset. It looks like you may be able to go straight up from the stove as high as possible and start the offset right off of the ceiling support box. FWIW, a telescoping length of pipe makes this 1000% easier.
 
I'd put one piece of telescoping pipe in - easy to disassemble and then use your SootEater to sweep from the bottom. Getting rigid, overlapping pipe that has to snugly fit the height in is tough.
 
I'd put one piece of telescoping pipe in - easy to disassemble and then use your SootEater to sweep from the bottom. Getting rigid, overlapping pipe that has to snugly fit the height in is tough.
No need to disassemble the connector with the T4. The flue outlet is completely exposed with the baffle out. Just lift the baffle out, put a rag in the secondary supply tube and brush.
 
So if I came up 12 inches (my wife wants it to angle back as low as it can) went back with 2 - 30’s that would take up about 19.25” (the box needs to hang down 3” so that’s 22.25”.
its 56.5 from the top of the outlet- not sure where you measure from.
That leaves 34.25“ to deal with..

Best way to go? Use a slip as the adjustable ones won’t fit?

How much play do I have with the ceiling box?

560989FD-0CCE-4B13-98F0-C14543ECAFEC.png
 
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Anyone know how these things are measured?
From the stove top? Top lip of flange? Bottom of flange?

C6FCA900-449C-4719-9B2B-242AAC39F2AB.jpeg
 
Measured for what? I'm not sure about Ultra-Black, but DVL stove pipe sits directly in it. The inner liner goes inside the collar and the outside end of the pipe stops about 3/8"" above the stovetop.
 
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Measured for what? I'm not sure about Ultra-Black, but DVL stove pipe sits directly in it. The inner liner goes inside the collar and the outside end of the pipe stops about 3/8"" above the stovetop.
I see they sell collars, not sure if I need that or if this pipe will just slide in.
looks like I’ll have around 34 inches to deal with above the 30’s. Can you just drop the ceiling box down to make up some space? It’s supposed to be at least 3 inches down but you can just drop it lower and have 4 or 5 inches hanging down if you need to bridge the gap?
here is what I’m dealing with in picture form;

9C485BAA-1525-4B59-8CAE-BD2C21FA6B11.jpeg