Help with P43 install

[P43pig]

Bought my first stove, P43, and am getting ready to install it. I wanted to run the stove's piping location by some people before I installed it to see what they thought. I haven't talked to the inspectors office yet but I think all my clearances are ok, at going from the manual they are.
I have a sunroom/3 season room(whatever you want to call it) off the back of my house. I want to put the stove in the corner on the house side...this creates a inside corner and a main house window clearance problem. I'll attach a picture....
I bought the Harman direct vent thimble. If center the vent between the studs (then 45 out of the stove and run a straight pipe) I will have 13" from the outside of the vent pipe to the house. I believe the min is 12" but not sure if that is to the center or OD...either way I'm good tho. The pipe will go into a cleanout, rise 18" for some draft, into a 90 and then the turn down. If my math is right the vent should be 20" to the house window...so good there to since it's 18".
So the questions:
1) house is vinyl, am I asking for trouble with this configuration and clearances as far as heat and soot?
2) how far does the vent outlet have to be from the wall?
3) any input welcome

In the pic the sunroom is to the right, main house to the left. Pipe will exit to the left and below the casement windows

 

[mikkeeh]

Should'nt be a problem with soot. Outlet spacing from the siding is dependant on pipe position. Most pipe brackets keep the pipe 3" from the siding (although most pipe now is 1" clearance.). Once you put a 90 and downshield on it ....it'll be good. Congrats on the P43. I think you'll like it.

 

[hinkle]

You can just do a straight pipe without the rise. Thats how I installed on my original stove. When I asked the place where I later bought my 43 from how to install the piping, they said just run it straight out the wall. Thats how they have all their personal stoves installed. When I upgraded to the 43, I had to add 2-90's and 6'' rise to hit the wall thimble hole. I know a few other people that have also installed like this.

The best thing with having just 1 piece of piping, you can just take it off the stove, pull it out of the wall, clean it outside, and put it back together. It makes it really nice for the P43 because it has the heat sensor in the exhaust port.

 

[P43pig]

Reason I was going to put the rise on it was for some draft in case of power loss. I was going to get a ups but figured I'd play it safe with a short vertical since it doesn't get in the way.
I saw the probe in there but was told you could take the blow cover off and push a brush thru it...then I could clean out at the T

 

[DAKSY]

You want to remove the ESP every time you brush the pipe. That's the brain for your Harman & the extra time to remove/re-install 3 -
4 screws could save you from damaging it, It's a $50 part...

 

[Murph]

If you are coming out in a corner check your clearances to the window, the perpendicular wall and realize that even having the clearance you can still get staining from the smoke. All the clearances are listed in the manual also I hope that the thimble includes outside air. As always have a permit have it inspected and inform you insurance about the new appliance.

 

[jack kunicki]

Haven't figured out how to rotate the image but here's what my p43 exhaust looks like.

 

[P43pig]

Haven't figured out how to rotate the image but here's what my p43 exhaust looks like.

That looks close to what I'm doing...any problems with your venting?
I see you have the turn down pointed away which if was going to do to
To that casement window looks less than 18"...that window not open?...in that case it would be 12"min

 

[P38X2]

For cleaning the venting, first do a search for "leaf blower trick"

Do NOT try running a vent flue brush past the ESP! Get yourself a 1" "bottle" brush from a hardware store. The kind with black bristles and a long, twisted wire handle. If the handle is too flexible for your liking, tape a 1/2 dowel to it. GENTLY clean the ESP/stove flue area with that. For the rest of the venting, get yourself a cleaning kit. If you're gonna do a straight out run, you'll prob only need 2 sections of rod and the brush head. Mark the sections #1 and #2 with a sharpie. Now, put your setup in a drill and find yourself a second pair of eyes. Remove your termination cap. Have your helper look through the stove flue as you SLOWLY spin the brush FORWARD (DO NOT REVERSE THE DRILL..EVER!) into the venting. When they see the brush head is at the appliance adapter, have them tell you to stop. Yell, bang on the wall, 2 way radio, cell phone, whatever, just make sure you guys are communicating with each other. Stop feeding around 3" from the ESP area (which you've already cleaned with the other brush). Now, without moving the brush ANY further, mark the rod even with the edge of your vent pipe. Make SURE you mark it CLEARLY and with something that won't wear off. This is your STOP point for future solo cleanings. If you'd like, you can tape a dollar bill towards the drill side of your "stop" line. If the bill disappears in the vent pipe, pull the brush out, take the dollar bill off and go get 49 more for a new ESP

After you've successfully brushed your venting, break out the leaf blower.

 

[jack kunicki]

That looks close to what I'm doing...any problems with your venting?
I see you have the turn down pointed away which if was going to do to
To that casement window looks less than 18"...that window not open?...in that case it would be 12"min

No problems at all. Professionally installed. I have all the clearances. The window does open. We just keep everything closed. I was more worried about the bushes being too close.

 

[Murph]

The clearances on any window that open is 48 inches or 18 inches with outside air kit and twelve inches from inside corner. If that is your venting in the picture there is no outside air. It is not to code.

 

[Lousyweather]

Reason I was going to put the rise on it was for some draft in case of power loss. I was going to get a ups but figured I'd play it safe with a short vertical since it doesn't get in the way.
I saw the probe in there but was told you could take the blow cover off and push a brush thru it...then I could clean out at the T

18" lift will give you a VERY negligible draft in the event of power loss......IMHO, not enough to justify the cost of the additional pieces.....

 

[Murph]

Get a backup for the stove. The Harman site will tell which ones can be used. When there is a power failure these will not run the stove but put it into shutdown and pulse the combustion blower until the fire is completely out.

 

[jack kunicki]

The clearances on any window that open is 48 inches or 18 inches with outside air kit and twelve inches from inside corner. If that is your venting in the picture there is no outside air. It is not to code.

I'm good. Can't see it in the picture but the oak intake is on the bottom right behind the vent pipe. I'm probably just at 18" from either window.

 

[MtDew]

Why not just go straight up thru the roof? Then have your OAK come in the corner behind the stove. That way you'd have plenty of vertical rise.

 

[Lousyweather]

Why not just go straight up thru the roof? Then have your OAK come in the corner behind the stove. That way you'd have plenty of vertical rise.

and have possibly caused more issues (mostly leakage), by compromising your roof (ice and water barrier, shingles, plywood), as well as made it much harder (and arguable more dangerous) to clean your pipe in the future......

my suggestion: if you can avoid it, DONT go thru the roof

 

[MtDew]

and have possibly caused more issues (mostly leakage), by compromising your roof (ice and water barrier, shingles, plywood), as well as made it much harder (and arguable more dangerous) to clean your pipe in the future......

my suggestion: if you can avoid it, DONT go thru the roof

Everyone is entitled to their opinion. I just thought it would be better than all the 45 and 90 bends and issues with window clearances and vinyl siding. The OP would be coming out the side of the house, that from their pictures, would require using a ladder to clean the outside section of venting. If done properly water leakage really isn't an issue. Roof access may be the biggest issue for the homeowner.

 

[Lousyweather]

Everyone is entitled to their opinion. I just thought it would be better than all the 45 and 90 bends and issues with window clearances and vinyl siding. The OP would be coming out the side of the house, that from their pictures, would require using a ladder to clean the outside section of venting. If done properly water leakage really isn't an issue. Roof access may be the biggest issue for the homeowner.

heres the thing:....if there is a 3' band of ice and water barrier over the sunroom's roof edge, you would need to perforate the I&W barrier to get the pipe through the roof, thereby compromising the integrity of the membrane. Now, the OP is from Massachusetts, where ice dams are quite common.....these ice dams cause water to back up behind them....this water tends to find ways through the flashing kit, and ends up dripping thru the ceiling, down the pipe, etc. As for using a ladder to clean, assuming there is an advantage to cleaning from the outside rather than the inside, wouldn't the OP have to use a longer ladder to access the roof option anyhow, making it inherently more dangerous (not to mention standing on a snowy roof in the middle of winter)?

There are no clearance issues with vinyl siding, and, since he has the Harman thimble, as long as he finishes the pipe 18" or more from the window, he should be fine, from a code and installation standpoint. If its in the corner he will need a 45 degree bend, but likely not much else in the matter of 90's, etc.

As for the OP's original question:
1. vinyl siding isn't really an issue
2. I would extend the pipe a bit out, the give yourself a bit more clearance mitigating any possible deposits you might see

 

[MtDew]

heres the thing:....if there is a 3' band of ice and water barrier over the sunroom's roof edge, you would need to perforate the I&W barrier to get the pipe through the roof, thereby compromising the integrity of the membrane. Now, the OP is from Massachusetts, where ice dams are quite common.....these ice dams cause water to back up behind them....this water tends to find ways through the flashing kit, and ends up dripping thru the ceiling, down the pipe, etc. As for using a ladder to clean, assuming there is an advantage to cleaning from the outside rather than the inside, wouldn't the OP have to use a longer ladder to access the roof option anyhow, making it inherently more dangerous (not to mention standing on a snowy roof in the middle of winter)?

There are no clearance issues with vinyl siding, and, since he has the Harman thimble, as long as he finishes the pipe 18" or more from the window, he should be fine, from a code and installation standpoint. If its in the corner he will need a 45 degree bend, but likely not much else in the matter of 90's, etc.

As for the OP's original question:
1. vinyl siding isn't really an issue
2. I would extend the pipe a bit out, the give yourself a bit more clearance mitigating any possible deposits you might see

Just saying if installed properly there isn't any need for concern. I have my venting run up thru the roof, I too have ice and water shield and have had this install now for 5 years. I live in PA and get lots of snow and ice every season. The ice and water shield acts like a self sealing membrane to punctures and perforations. Yes the real leak areas would be the flashing areas but using the correct sealing products would prevent possible issues. Maybe I do something wrong but I only get on my roof once a season(before the heating season) to do a thorough vent cleaning. I clean my stove every few weeks. I burn 4-5 ton per season and have never had any issues. I just thought that if the OP was having space issues with a corner install, a roof vent may be the answer. It would also provide nice draft with all the vertical rise. As far as the longer ladder issue, we don't know how they would have to access the roof. Maybe they have a window they use to access the roof.

Just stating there are always many ways to get things done. We are all here to help.