Help with wood stove pipe connections

[shockman]

I have a Fisher stove in my cabin that has black single wall pipe to ceiling into double wall insulated pipe. The connection at this point is backwards and leaks creosote! I have the pipe disasembled right now and cannot figure out how to correct this connection. I cannot find pics online to show if there is a coupler missing or what the ins. pipe should look like, there seems to be a small 4 or 5 inch pc of pipe that is male to female in enr of pipe which will not allow me to make a female to male connection at this point?? I can take pics with I-Phone but would have to figure out how to get them on here or easier to text! Help??
Marc

 

[begreen]

All connections should be with the crimped end on the bottom, toward the stove. That allows one section to drain condensation into the next. The final piece that ties into the thimble may need to be crimped on both ends in order to properly connect. This crimp is done manually with a pair of hand crimpers. Post some shots and we can review. There is an upload button on the text box that allows this.

 

[shockman]

What is the thimble pray tell??? I understand the crimp end points toward stove, but the insulated pipe is very different and does not have a crimp?? it looks like it has an adapter in it, but crimp is inside the insulated pipe. Now I thought about reversing that piece but the insulated pipe does not look like it was built to have pipe on the outside as there appears to be seam that is quite rough on the outside???

 

[begreen]

Without pictures or a description I am just guessing at your setup. How is the stove connected to the insulated pipe? Is this a straight-up or through the wall chimney connection? What type of insulated pipe is this? For most brands you need to have a special adapter for the connector pipe. Can you take a shot or two and send it to your home computer, then post it?

 

[shockman]

Straight up through ceiling, and not really done by the book, but seems safe enough. a bucket or box?? was not used but clearence seems adequate and solid. think I figured out the pic thing so can post more. Forum does not seem to upload post instantly????

 

[begreen]

The delay is because as a newcomer your posts are being moderated. It's to keep out spam. Keep on posting and that will end soon.

 

[shockman]

 

[begreen]

That came through. If you shoot with the phone held horiz. it won't need rotating. I will rotate this pic for you.

What I see concerns me. There is obviously very serious creosote accumulation in this pipe and it is the bad kind. That black tarry stuff is combustible. If it gets worse up in the insulated pipe you are at high risk of a chimney fire. There should never be creosote dripping on the outside of the insulated (class A) pipe. Besides the creosote, something is wrong here that is allowing the leakage, perhaps up topside with the chimney flashing? Is there a storm collar on the chimney pipe above the roof flashing and is it sealed with silicone?

We need to determine the brand of chimney. Sometimes the cap will give a clue. Can you take a picture of the topside? It would be good to see the entire chimney.

If this is Selkirk, the proper adapter twist locks into the chimney pipe and has a crimped edge on the bottom.

 

[shockman]

I have a feeling that the black stuff on outside of ins. pipe is roofing tar and not creasote?? I would try to remove pipe totally to see whats holding it but only have on hand high temp black rtv silicone to reseal flange, not sure if that is appropriate??? If I can get a twist on flange that would be great, but the local fireplace centre frowns on this 1000* pipe as it is note code any longer???

1 more

 

[shockman]

cap

 

[begreen]

It looks better topside, though mighty black for a pipe that is normally shiny stainless. What made the local shop think this is 1000 pipe?

 

[shockman]

wrong pic?? try again cap!!

 

[shockman]

Age!! and me telling them I thought it was?? how do we tell?

 

[begreen]

If they have identified the pipe, give them a call and ask what it is. Is it just one 4ft length? Is the cap 3 ft above the roof? If so, it looks like an easy replacement for a modern length of 2100F pipe with a proper transition piece. As long as the new pipe is the same OD you don't need to replace the roof flashing.

 

[shockman]

They haven't really identified it! they are far more interested in selling me a 48" pc for $283.00. Should I be able to buy an adapter for this pipe if it is older??

 

[shockman]

Yes it is only one 4ftr, and as you can see in pic #3 it is only about 2 ft from roof edge, no it isn't 3ft above, but close :>))

 

[begreen]

I am wondering what is supporting this pipe. Hopefully a roof bracket, but that complicates things a lot. If so it is under the roof flashing.

 

[shockman]

I'm dieing to know too, but before I go ripping it apart you have to tell me if I can reseal with black RTV silicone. I suspect it is held by the roof flashing (screws maybe) and the rain flashing. I'm hopeing someone didn't strape it under the roofI had to beat on the adapter pretty hard to remove it, seems like it could just be reversed but needs to be expanded enough to fit over the insulated pipe. Neighbor has a piece that looks like what could be used except is for smaller pipe. How do they expand the female end??? or are they just made that way??

 

[begreen]

I'd be a lot more concerned if it's being just held by roof flashing and storm collar. Class A pipe is heavy, you want it well supported.

This adapter is more what I would expect to find. It locks into the outer rim for a secured connection and is crimped on the bottom edge.

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