I have a HMF200 and I have never seen the primary air control ever open. That being said, fires only last around 6 hours. The furnace and stove pipe are never hot ( i can hold my hand on the flue at the rear of the stove and it is just slightly warm) It does not matter where I set my thermostat eg. 65 deg. and the stove just keeps heating the house well over 70 deg. until fire goes out. I have no idea what is going on. Very confused and not sure what is wrong. Any help to diagnose my situation would be much appreciated.
HMF200
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Just using it for the first time for the past week. Napoleon home comfort in Barrie( ontario) installed it over the last 3 yrs. Kept failing inspections and now they have just walked away and left me hanging.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Not too familiar with that model, but something is not right for sure...any other dealers around, or that you could call just to ask questions?
I have tried getting someone to come look at it but they are all extremely busy right now or don't have the equipment to do the testing. My immediate issue is Napoleon installed a barometric damper but did not tighten the weight so it came off from flopping open and closed all summer. The draft can only be a max of .06 and mine was 1.3 before they put in the damper. No one I have contacted is familiar with the HMF200 except one guy that said they installed one for a customer but had to take it back out and install another munufacturers furnace as they could not get the HMF200 working properly.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
What kind of damper is it?
Having high draft will make the furnace run hotter, not colder...and would not be the reason that the primary air is not opening.
Having the weight off of the damper would make it run with higher draft (with any damper that I'm familiar with)
Having high draft will make the furnace run hotter, not colder...and would not be the reason that the primary air is not opening.
Having the weight off of the damper would make it run with higher draft (with any damper that I'm familiar with)
Are you asking about the barometric damper? It is on a DSP chimney pipe but I don't think they had one available for their chimney. I don't remember seeing identification on it but I will check tomorrow. I put the knurled knob back on the damper and guessed at the setting until I can get someone to measure it. My feeling is that it is only using secondary air for the burn. What I don't understand is how the primary air is always closed and the fire continues to burn and severely raise the house temperature. My firewood is about 13% moisture. House is 4500 sq ft. I get 6 hrs burn time and it is supposed to be 18 hrs. I 'm suspecting they wired something wrong. It is a combination wood, gas and air conditioning system with lots of interconnecting circuits and safety shutouts.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
I guess I misunderstood your problem...I thought you weren't able to get it to burn hot enough to do any good. (because the primary air was always closed) but what you actually have going on is even more confusing...I think you are going to just have to get a tech out there to look at it, that's a pretty complicated machine, and there aren't that many of them out there, so not likely anyone here is going to be familiar enough with it to help much...I'd bet you are right though, something wired, or set wrong.
As far as your issue with the barometric damper weight...they often have markings on them to help you with a preliminary setting...a manometer will need to be put on to get it set exactly though...you could just buy an inexpensive one, like a Dwyer Mark II model 25 and then just leave it hooked up all the time...many of us here have that setup, it works great! They can often be bought on ebay and the likes for $25-40. (NOS, or lightly used...just make sure any used ones come with the red gauge oil, its pricey to buy separately)
As far as your issue with the barometric damper weight...they often have markings on them to help you with a preliminary setting...a manometer will need to be put on to get it set exactly though...you could just buy an inexpensive one, like a Dwyer Mark II model 25 and then just leave it hooked up all the time...many of us here have that setup, it works great! They can often be bought on ebay and the likes for $25-40. (NOS, or lightly used...just make sure any used ones come with the red gauge oil, its pricey to buy separately)
Thanks Brenndatomu for your advice. I actually reached out to a member here that has the same furnace and has been a great help. I've discovered today that the wood thermostat was wired to the HRV instead of the air intake. I have the DWYER mark 2 and he is also helping me to set it up. Great site. I would have not found the help without it. Thank you.
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