Hmmm, whats going on here? + a few other questions

[m1garand]

So I bought a used Regency 3100. It looks to be in fair condition and does not appear to have had much use. So, after further inspection upon getting it home, I noticed this weird peice of "damage" at the top of the firebox, all the way up front. Any ideas if I should be concerned??



Also, according to the directions, there should be two large bricks that sit on top. This one came with a few regular size bricks that were up there. Will that be OK?

Next up, the gasket was pretty compressed and old, plus the cement was cracking off. So, I replaced the gasket (but have not cemented it in yet). The door is pretty tight, and a dollar bill will come out of the hinged side and along the side on the top and bottom. It does not come out freely, but there is only light resistence. I want to say that due to the hinge, there is not enough gasket on that side to make a super tight seal. Does anyone ever add extra gasket material to the hinged side?

Thanks all! The chimney guys are coming out tomorrow to drop the liner. I would do it myself, but I a weeny when it comes to getting on my roof. Not really scared of heights, just scared of wobbly ladders.

 

[burnt03]

Also, according to the directions, there should be two large bricks that sit on top. This one came with a few regular size bricks that were up there. Will that be OK?

If the 3100 is like the 2400, the bricks at the top are baffles and that's probably what should be up there instead of fire bricks. They're made out of vermiculite whereas the bricks are made out of.... brick? Also, the baffles are a specific size so that (I assume) the secondary burn will be more likely rather than just firing through the cracks and up through the chimney.

As for the damage, not really sure with the pic. Does it look like it was cut or something?

 

[m1garand]

It kind of looks like someone tried to pick it up by that lip, but its really hard to tell. Does that lip run straight across?

 

[m1garand]

I can't wait to ask the dealer how much the baffle will be. The freaking flue adapter was $75 with a $25 shipping charge. I am excited to be getting into burning, but it sucks you have to go through a dealer to get every single little part.

 

[begreen]

You'll want the proper baffle in place before burning and that air deflector will need repairing. Not sure what did this, but it looks like a blowtorch like flame severely overheated that area. Check the stove door gasket and glass gasket for any leaks up top.

 

[m1garand]

You'll want the proper baffle in place before burning and that air deflector will need repairing. Not sure what did this, but it looks like a blowtorch like flame severely overheated that area. Check the stove door gasket and glass gasket for any leaks up top.

ughhh, this stove is quickly becoming a lemon. So I am going to order the baffle, which isn't too bad, but what is the purpose of the air deflector? Who would be able to repair something like this? Looks like it needs to be welded....

 

[WES999]

Go here and download the manual; (broken link removed to http://www.regency-fire.com/Files/Manuals/F3100-908-288.aspx)

There should be 2 baffles that sit on the burn tubes. I don't think regular fire bricks will work.
Get the correct parts from Regency.

My stove has similar warping of the sheet-metal part, although not quite as bad. I used a hammer and dolly to straighten it out. I think I used a torch to heat the metal up to make it easier to straighten. That piece is a bit on the thin side for the heat it sees. It will get quite red hot during operation.

 

[m1garand]

Go here and download the manual; (broken link removed to http://www.regency-fire.com/Files/Manuals/F3100-908-288.aspx)

There should be 2 baffles that sit on the burn tubes. I don't think regular fire bricks will work.
Get the correct parts from Regency.

My stove has similar warping of the sheet-metal part, although not quite as bad. I used a hammer and dolly to straighten it out. I think I used a torch to heat the metal up to make it easier to straighten. That piece is a bit on the thin side for the heat it sees. It will get quite red hot during operation.

Do you happen to have a pic of yours?

I might be learning how weld here soon. Probably cheaper to buy a cheap home welder instead of having a stove guy fix this.

 

[WES999]

I would try heating it up and hammering it straight first. If that doesn't work, I would get a strip of stainless steel and just screw it to the existing piece. I think it can be fixed without welding.

 

[m1garand]

I would try heating it up and hammering it straight first. If that doesn't work, I would get a strip of stainless steel and just screw it to the existing piece. I think it can be fixed without welding.

Thanks! Part of that strip of metal is missing completely. I thought this was a lightly used unit, but the chimney guy said it had fair use. I wonder if the previous owner painted it or something, because the exterior looks great.

 

[m1garand]

So, I got my baffle and the material needed to fix the deflector, which should be pretty easy.

Should I do anything to the blower? It seems like it runs but I am wondering if there is anything is oil or lube. The manual says to NOT oil it, but I am curious as to what people around here say.

 

[WES999]

Just blow it out with compressed air, they can get quite dusty.