Home brewing thread anyone?

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Bottle day was done this past Friday. Didn't hit my gravity, but I am taking the blame on that one since we had a cold snap and the basement couldn't maintain temperature. We ended up just below 4% ABV. I need more temperature control and I also need to stop being lazy and use my yeast nutrient.

But.... what I tasted was really freaking good. I tried it plain, delicious, dosed the chocolate tincture, also delicious. I did end up doing some mint. I am thinking the mint will come through as the beer ages. Excited to give these a try cold and carbed! Then on to the next batch. I did take some pictures, I will edit with some because the beer turned out really good despite missing the gravity target.
 
Bottle day was done this past Friday. Didn't hit my gravity, but I am taking the blame on that one since we had a cold snap and the basement couldn't maintain temperature. We ended up just below 4% ABV. I need more temperature control and I also need to stop being lazy and use my yeast nutrient.

But.... what I tasted was really freaking good. I tried it plain, delicious, dosed the chocolate tincture, also delicious. I did end up doing some mint. I am thinking the mint will come through as the beer ages. Excited to give these a try cold and carbed! Then on to the next batch. I did take some pictures, I will edit with some because the beer turned out really good despite missing the gravity target.
Here is my setup - my basement room stays below 22C all year so all I need is heat. My other house needed cooling also, so I made a solid state 12V cooling "fridge" out of foam board. The Inkbird have heat and cool plugs.

Each bucket has two seedling heaters and the plugs are wired just to one. The probe is stuck in between next to the bucket.
 

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Bottle day was done this past Friday. Didn't hit my gravity, but I am taking the blame on that one since we had a cold snap and the basement couldn't maintain temperature. We ended up just below 4% ABV. I need more temperature control and I also need to stop being lazy and use my yeast nutrient.

But.... what I tasted was really freaking good. I tried it plain, delicious, dosed the chocolate tincture, also delicious. I did end up doing some mint. I am thinking the mint will come through as the beer ages. Excited to give these a try cold and carbed! Then on to the next batch. I did take some pictures, I will edit with some because the beer turned out really good despite missing the gravity target.

 
While I wait for the cream ale to carb, I am already planning the next brew. I have a good amount of ingredients to use up. Not sure if I have enough for a 5 gallon batch of something but definitely a 2.5 gallon or a few 1 gallons. I think I have some 2 row, white wheat, flaked corn, and maybe some pilsner malt. I have odds and ends of hops that I got 1oz pellets but only dosed a few grams. Willamette, Citra, and maybe some Cluster. I usually keep some US-05 on hand. Sounds like I can either try again with a cream ale or add some flaked corn to a pilsner/wheat beer to lighten it up. Not sure what I want to do yet. I have always wanted to try a shandy with some of my homegrown lemons but they will not be ready in time for warm weather. I can always use some store bought and make lemonade.

Either way, since I am giving away a lot of the cream ale I am currently carbing, I want to make sure I have something else on hand for the winter.

Sidenote, I have been getting these ads for this hop extract company "Abstrax" that they are claiming can eliminate the need for dry hopping. I think they said it is mainly for the aroma hops and not the bittering hops portion of the brew process. Anybody use hop extracts before? Seems a little gimmicky to me especially for $89 USD for a 4oz bottle even if dosing a small amount. The reason I was even looking at it was because of essentially guaranteed utilization and a cleaner finish but if you have to use pellets or flower anyway it gets a "meh" from me.
 
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While I wait for the cream ale to carb, I am already planning the next brew. I have a good amount of ingredients to use up. Not sure if I have enough for a 5 gallon batch of something but definitely a 2.5 gallon or a few 1 gallons. I think I have some 2 row, white wheat, flaked corn, and maybe some pilsner malt. I have odds and ends of hops that I got 1oz pellets but only dosed a few grams. Willamette, Citra, and maybe some Cluster. I usually keep some US-05 on hand. Sounds like I can either try again with a cream ale or add some flaked corn to a pilsner/wheat beer to lighten it up. Not sure what I want to do yet. I have always wanted to try a shandy with some of my homegrown lemons but they will not be ready in time for warm weather. I can always use some store bought and make lemonade.

Either way, since I am giving away a lot of the cream ale I am currently carbing, I want to make sure I have something else on hand for the winter.

Sidenote, I have been getting these ads for this hop extract company "Abstrax" that they are claiming can eliminate the need for dry hopping. I think they said it is mainly for the aroma hops and not the bittering hops portion of the brew process. Anybody use hop extracts before? Seems a little gimmicky to me especially for $89 USD for a 4oz bottle even if dosing a small amount. The reason I was even looking at it was because of essentially guaranteed utilization and a cleaner finish but if you have to use pellets or flower anyway it gets a "meh" from me.
I joined a Facebook group called "Simple Home Brew Club 46k Members. There are probably others also. I answer some questions people have. There are many all-grain brewers.
 
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I joined a Facebook group called "Simple Home Brew Club 46k Members. There are probably others also. I answer some questions people have. There are many all-grain brewers.
I'm in a couple groups, but I do like to do some of my own browsing and experimentation with stuff. I also like chatting here since you guys are OK too. ;) My biggest issue with brewing in general is negligence especially post brew day. I'll have a perfect brew day and forget my basement is going to drop to 60F and I'll have some fermentation stall. If I just brought it upstairs it would stay at 67F. 🤣

I am confident this cream ale is a great cream ale base for me once I ferment it properly. I am still trying to work on my generic wheat base so I may just try to dial in that wheat beer this next brew. Before I know it, I'm going to have berries and herbs from the garden that are just asking to be infused in my beers! ==c
 
I'm in a couple groups, but I do like to do some of my own browsing and experimentation with stuff. I also like chatting here since you guys are OK too. ;) My biggest issue with brewing in general is negligence especially post brew day. I'll have a perfect brew day and forget my basement is going to drop to 60F and I'll have some fermentation stall. If I just brought it upstairs it would stay at 67F. 🤣

I am confident this cream ale is a great cream ale base for me once I ferment it properly. I am still trying to work on my generic wheat base so I may just try to dial in that wheat beer this next brew. Before I know it, I'm going to have berries and herbs from the garden that are just asking to be infused in my beers! ==c
Proper fermentation temperature, and temperature control is as important as any other step. I have mine set for 22C. The yeast will get upset if the temperature is too low or too high. They also like constant temperature. Having a cool spot is ideal, because you can heat up the fermenter with a closed loop heat control. Having to cool your fermenter is much harder.

I was at my local wine and beer brew store and picked up a little manual CO2 charger, and two "new to me" beer kits for xmas beer.
Just made the first one. I am still using my 4 liter oxebar PET kegs. 3 kegs plus 17 bottles per batch right now.
 

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Awesome! Enjoy it. My keg, co2 cylinder and regulator have arrived. Next on my list is a propane burner so I don't have to use my grill burners. ;em I have a couple of local places that will either exchange or fill my co2, so I think I might try and scrounge together enough ingredients to get a 5 gallon batch to test the keg. I also still need a gas line and a picnic tap for the keg. Then I should be set up! I know it's getting to winter, but I couldn't stop thinking about making that shandy...
 
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Awesome! Enjoy it. My keg, co2 cylinder and regulator have arrived. Next on my list is a propane burner so I don't have to use my grill burners. ;em I have a couple of local places that will either exchange or fill my co2, so I think I might try and scrounge together enough ingredients to get a 5 gallon batch to test the keg. I also still need a gas line and a picnic tap for the keg. Then I should be set up! I know it's getting to winter, but I couldn't stop thinking about making that shandy...
I actually only had one 4 liter mini keg left and didn't want to start another 16g cartridge so I just poured it out. That was the day before yesterday. Whatever was left (about a glass) I just stuck in the fridge. Yesterday I poured the rest out and it was fine. The head is not as good as using CO2, and awkward to pour with one hand/arm into the glass which is held on an angle. For the 8literones I will use CO2 for sure as I should be able to dispense at least one with 16g. I think the little push CO2 dispenser will use less as the regulator was adding more CO2 into the beer.
Do you think you could use an induction hotplate? You would have better temperature control. You will need fridge space and be able put the CO2 in the fridge or run the line in.
I am excited to see your setup. I looked into CO2 here and they wanted $150 to join an exchange program plus the refill cost and I didn't have any regulator hoses or fridge or big kegs so I went the cartridges for now. I bought 30 from Amazon at a bulk price. I might look into the soda stream knock off brand they sell at my hardware store at some point. Once you buy one you just exchange.
 
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I actually only had one 4 liter mini keg left and didn't want to start another 16g cartridge so I just poured it out. That was the day before yesterday. Whatever was left (about a glass) I just stuck in the fridge. Yesterday I poured the rest out and it was fine. The head is not as good as using CO2, and awkward to pour with one hand/arm into the glass which is held on an angle. For the 8literones I will use CO2 for sure as I should be able to dispense at least one with 16g. I think the little push CO2 dispenser will use less as the regulator was adding more CO2 into the beer.
Do you think you could use an induction hotplate? You would have better temperature control. You will need fridge space and be able put the CO2 in the fridge or run the line in.
I am excited to see your setup. I looked into CO2 here and they wanted $150 to join an exchange program plus the refill cost and I didn't have any regulator hoses or fridge or big kegs so I went the cartridges for now. I bought 30 from Amazon at a bulk price. I might look into the soda stream knock off brand they sell at my hardware store at some point. Once you buy one you just exchange.
Induction is a good idea too, I would just need one that fits my 10 gallon pot! I figured propane was a decent option and cheaper from what I could tell (price wise for the burner). I'd just have to be outside, which is fine, if I wait for a relatively mild day. For smaller batches I have an electric cooktop that I can use.

I'll definitely post pics once setup! I'm lucky to have fridges, and only with small modifications will the setup fit. Then I can make a decision whether or not I want to do the whole "kegerator conversion" thing with the taps on it.

For just dispensing I think you are making the right call. A few people on some forums I am on use the soda stream adapter to both carb and dispense their smaller batches. Most of the time they just complain about the $15 USD exchange for not even a pound canister of co2. I'll have to see how cheap it is to fill or exchange my 2.5 pound. I would've went 5 pounds but they were sold out. I still think I can get a decent amount of batches before having to fill up.
 
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Induction is a good idea too, I would just need one that fits my 10 gallon pot! I figured propane was a decent option and cheaper from what I could tell (price wise for the burner). I'd just have to be outside, which is fine, if I wait for a relatively mild day. For smaller batches I have an electric cooktop that I can use.

I'll definitely post pics once setup! I'm lucky to have fridges, and only with small modifications will the setup fit. Then I can make a decision whether or not I want to do the whole "kegerator conversion" thing with the taps on it.

For just dispensing I think you are making the right call. A few people on some forums I am on use the soda stream adapter to both carb and dispense their smaller batches. Most of the time they just complain about the $15 USD exchange for not even a pound canister of co2. I'll have to see how cheap it is to fill or exchange my 2.5 pound. I would've went 5 pounds but they were sold out. I still think I can get a decent amount of batches before having to fill up.
Propane is a good cheaper higher BTU way to go.
I think a double burner inductionmight work:

Will you be using sugar to get the CO2, or using the tank to add the CO2? If you are just dispensing with your tank that will use way less as you can shut the tank off in between as they have a good valve.
 
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Propane is a good cheaper higher BTU way to go.
I think a double burner inductionmight work:

Will you be using sugar to get the CO2, or using the tank to add the CO2? If you are just dispensing with your tank that will use way less as you can shut the tank off in between as they have a good valve.
I definitely think something like that would work. That also gives a nice option to sit flush and build a countertop type of situation for the brewery area. The only attractive thing about the propane was the cheaper entry point, around half the price of that for one that would fit my brew kettle. Maybe I hold off and use the grill until I make a decision. 🤣 Or smaller batches.

I'm planning on both carbonating and dispensing with my co2 canister. If I get a handful of batches both carbed and dispensed with a 2.5 pound, I'm happy. I look at all these charts, but they don't account for purging, loss due to leaks, etc. so I am trying to set my expectations. I even consider the convenience factor of kegging a bonus for the price of entry.
 
My wife and some friends tried the chocolate mint version of the cream ale. They really liked it, although the flavors are subtle. Only been a week and a half since bottling, but I can tell it is aging nicely. Something I was thinking about the other day... I probably didn't have to condition as much since I'm sure the chocolate and mint tinctures added some sugars to produce co2. May end up with some bottle bombs. ;em Oh well, they usually settle down in the fridge. This is why I want to go to kegging! LOL.

I made the decision to go with a shandy for my next brew. I'll do it like a beer cocktail and mix at serving. I can have fun with the lemonade and if I nail this, the summer will be amazing with fresh raspberry, blueberry, etc. lemonades to add. I just have to nail my wheat base. This time, I just want to use up some ingredients I have, and this recipe will get rid of most of it for a 2 gallon batch:

  • 2lb 2-Row Briess
  • 1lb Viking Wheat Malt
  • 1lb Rahr North Star Pils OR 1lb White Wheat (unsure what might be better)
  • 6 grams Cluster at 60mins (I really liked how Cluster turned out early in the boil with the cream ale)
  • 5 grams Willamette at 10mins (nice earthy and spicy classic) OR I have some leftover Citra (might go well with lemonade? Same amount of Citra brings IBUs up so could dose less)
  • About 6 grams of Safale US-05
Should follow a standard brew day, mash at 152F for an hour, pull out the bag and go for an hour boil. Cool, rack into fermenter, pitch yeast and off to the races. According to my recipe on Brewer's Friend, assuming 70% BIAB efficiency, I should end up at around 5.7% ABV. I'm also trying to start accounting for lower efficiency so anything in the 5%-6% range is perfectly fine with me. I have some DME if my gravity is low (see?, I'm learning!) Considering I also have the volume of lemonade, this should last a good while!

I also wonder if this is the brew I try @EbS-P 's NA method and try for a NA version of the shandy as well.
 
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My wife and some friends tried the chocolate mint version of the cream ale. They really liked it, although the flavors are subtle. Only been a week and a half since bottling, but I can tell it is aging nicely. Something I was thinking about the other day... I probably didn't have to condition as much since I'm sure the chocolate and mint tinctures added some sugars to produce co2. May end up with some bottle bombs. ;em Oh well, they usually settle down in the fridge. This is why I want to go to kegging! LOL.

I made the decision to go with a shandy for my next brew. I'll do it like a beer cocktail and mix at serving. I can have fun with the lemonade and if I nail this, the summer will be amazing with fresh raspberry, blueberry, etc. lemonades to add. I just have to nail my wheat base. This time, I just want to use up some ingredients I have, and this recipe will get rid of most of it for a 2 gallon batch:

  • 2lb 2-Row Briess
  • 1lb Viking Wheat Malt
  • 1lb Rahr North Star Pils OR 1lb White Wheat (unsure what might be better)
  • 6 grams Cluster at 60mins (I really liked how Cluster turned out early in the boil with the cream ale)
  • 5 grams Willamette at 10mins (nice earthy and spicy classic) OR I have some leftover Citra (might go well with lemonade? Same amount of Citra brings IBUs up so could dose less)
  • About 6 grams of Safale US-05
Should follow a standard brew day, mash at 152F for an hour, pull out the bag and go for an hour boil. Cool, rack into fermenter, pitch yeast and off to the races. According to my recipe on Brewer's Friend, assuming 70% BIAB efficiency, I should end up at around 5.7% ABV. I'm also trying to start accounting for lower efficiency so anything in the 5%-6% range is perfectly fine with me. I have some DME if my gravity is low (see?, I'm learning!) Considering I also have the volume of lemonade, this should last a good while!

I also wonder if this is the brew I try @EbS-P 's NA method and try for a NA version of the shandy as well.
That looks like a good start for an NA. Cut the hops by at least 1/2 maybe even 1/4 if you don’t like it hoppy.
 
I was doing some reading, and I know I won't truly know the answer to this unless I get a test sent to Ward Labs or something, but I am wondering if my distaste for some of my brews has been because of my water. It's RO water, but I do have one of those alkaline filters in it so it's probably introducing some minerals/alkalinity that may make the lighter beers I try to brew a bit tougher. Especially if I am also adding calcium chloride and gypsum. It's a longshot, but I wonder if I just try a batch with some bottled distilled and see if I notice a difference (with my usual salt additions). I do want to get one of those "brewer water tests" from Ward Labs at some point, but for almost $60 USD, I might try to experiment some first. The $60 isn't so bad if water quality causes me to throw out batches. ==c

Not only that, but it could also be the reason I see some stuck fermentation. If my ph is too high, I'm not getting the sugar conversion and as a result of course the yeast doesn't have much to feed on. I can't remember if my batches started having this problem right when I switched to the RO.

I think I finally have the gist of water profiles and why they're important. I've also been told to KISS, but it's some interesting chemistry that might make a big difference in the brews. Personally, I don't like to buy the plastic but it will be a small brew, so maybe worth a try for the shandy and get my water test done so I have numbers to plug into these water profile calculators. I'm going to be using balanced profiles, so 1:1 chloride to sulfate. I may have nailed the chloride, but maybe the sulfates were too much.
 
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I was doing some reading, and I know I won't truly know the answer to this unless I get a test sent to Ward Labs or something, but I am wondering if my distaste for some of my brews has been because of my water. It's RO water, but I do have one of those alkaline filters in it so it's probably introducing some minerals/alkalinity that may make the lighter beers I try to brew a bit tougher. Especially if I am also adding calcium chloride and gypsum. It's a longshot, but I wonder if I just try a batch with some bottled distilled and see if I notice a difference (with my usual salt additions). I do want to get one of those "brewer water tests" from Ward Labs at some point, but for almost $60 USD, I might try to experiment some first. The $60 isn't so bad if water quality causes me to throw out batches. ==c

Not only that, but it could also be the reason I see some stuck fermentation. If my ph is too high, I'm not getting the sugar conversion and as a result of course the yeast doesn't have much to feed on. I can't remember if my batches started having this problem right when I switched to the RO.

I think I finally have the gist of water profiles and why they're important. I've also been told to KISS, but it's some interesting chemistry that might make a big difference in the brews. Personally, I don't like to buy the plastic but it will be a small brew, so maybe worth a try for the shandy and get my water test done so I have numbers to plug into these water profile calculators. I'm going to be using balanced profiles, so 1:1 chloride to sulfate. I may have nailed the chloride, but maybe the sulfates were too much.
Maybe if you can run a batch of RO water with the filter bypassed? I uses a CPAP machine and buy distilled water at Walmart for $1.29CAD for 4l. Then you should be able to use the receipe amount of salts ect. For stuck fermentation remember to keep the temperature the same start to finish probably 22C unless it's a special lager yeast.
I just got all my all grain brewing gear together (and distilling) and sold to a guy. I have not used it in years. If I do grain it will be partial grain in a pot BIAB. In the process of finding all this "stuff" I came across a water solution I used before. I had bought a 3 pack of carbon filters that the RV'ers use. I had one hooked up to a tap I added and used filtered water for my batches (that was city water).
Here in PEI I drink the water right out of the tap (with a little lemon juice added). We have well water here and it's very good. I just add campden 1 tablet per 23l. I think for extract brewing it's not so important as the malt/hop people have already made the important part.
 
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I have never had a bad batch. RO or city water. I have ignored water quality ( until I tried to made hard seltzer and I never was able to do it). I could never tell the difference. Stuck fermentation or PH are probably cleanliness issues, oxygenation, or temperature.
 
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I've used test strips in the past and know my well water is slightly acidic. From what I can tell, my base profile would lend itself well to darker, maybe malty beers like porters or brown ales, but according to the Internet that never lies, might not be as ideal for the pilsners, cream ales and wheat beers that I like it make. I think I am going to try out bottled distilled and see. I've seen some folks bypass the alkaline for brewing, I'm sure I could do that, but if it truly doesn't make a difference I won't put the effort in.

Honestly, I think temperature was my biggest issue last batch, but I would like to know my mash ph moving forward so I may get a meter. As I'm sure is community consensus, the strips aren't that great. I do think there is a chance I am using too many salts and that could be an issue as well, hence why I think it's nice to know the water profile and then calculate what your PPMs will be for certain measurements of salts.

I'm hoping my worries of oxygenating my beers are over with my keg setup. Ferment, quick cold crash, into a purged keg. Sounds amazing.
 
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I was doing some reading, and I know I won't truly know the answer to this unless I get a test sent to Ward Labs or something, but I am wondering if my distaste for some of my brews has been because of my water. It's RO water, but I do have one of those alkaline filters in it so it's probably introducing some minerals/alkalinity that may make the lighter beers I try to brew a bit tougher. Especially if I am also adding calcium chloride and gypsum. It's a longshot, but I wonder if I just try a batch with some bottled distilled and see if I notice a difference (with my usual salt additions). I do want to get one of those "brewer water tests" from Ward Labs at some point, but for almost $60 USD, I might try to experiment some first. The $60 isn't so bad if water quality causes me to throw out batches. ==c

Not only that, but it could also be the reason I see some stuck fermentation. If my ph is too high, I'm not getting the sugar conversion and as a result of course the yeast doesn't have much to feed on. I can't remember if my batches started having this problem right when I switched to the RO.

I think I finally have the gist of water profiles and why they're important. I've also been told to KISS, but it's some interesting chemistry that might make a big difference in the brews. Personally, I don't like to buy the plastic but it will be a small brew, so maybe worth a try for the shandy and get my water test done so I have numbers to plug into these water profile calculators. I'm going to be using balanced profiles, so 1:1 chloride to sulfate. I may have nailed the chloride, but maybe the sulfates were too much.
Interesting

I don't use RO but I have a water softener here. I haven't brewed yet. Too much going on, so after Christmas I will do mine.
 
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Awesome! Keep us posted. I can almost guarantee I'm overthinking it, as I do for most of my hobbies, but if I can learn something new I try to do the deep dive. I am hoping to do my wheat ale this weekend. Should be a very easy brew day, only a 2 gallon batch. I think I landed on:
  • 2lb 2-Row Briess
  • 1lb Viking Wheat Malt
  • 1lb White Wheat
  • 5 grams Cluster at 60mins
  • 4-5 grams Citra at 10 mins
  • 6 grams of Safale US-05
This should put me at about 5.5% ABV and just under 20 IBUs. Should be perfect if I hit the mark!
 
I hope everyone had a great holiday and are having a good start to the new year! All of my kegging equipment has arrived and, after a mixup with a company sending a totally different item instead of my co2 tank, my 5lb tank is full and ready to carb!

I haven't had time to start the brew yet, but ingredients are in and all I have to do is brew! Stoked to keg my first batch. The PET keg is really nice. And now that my cost of entry is pretty much taken care of, I can always change over to a traditional corny keg or just keep going with the PET.

I kind of figured it would be the case, but I really have been enjoying some name brand brews for the holidays but my family enjoyed my cream ale which was nice.