Hoping to install Baby bear tomorrow! Need some advice.

[68 Couper]

Hey Folks,

I'm new to the place. I've been doing my homework on a wood stove for some time. Last year I built a 700 square foot detached garage. I had trenched in a gas line and was planning to use a 80,000 btu furnace I have to heat it with. At the beginning of the winter I was laid off, like many, and it slowed down the pouring of cash into this project. I picked up a new job working for John Deere a few months ago and am trying to get this going again.

I cringe when gas bill arrives already so I decided to start looking for a woodburner. I found a nice Fisher baby bear on Craigslist and picked it up last week. Since then, I invested in 8' of single wall ,2 sections of 36"insulated supervent, an 90 to replace the one on the stove, a supervent cap and some pipe cement. Tonight I was looking at where I wanted to put the stove and I have a couple of Q's.

1. How can I run this stove closer to the wall? I was thinking of putting a course of cinder blocks between the stove and the wall. The 36" to OSB will eat up allot of floor space.

2. How low do I need to run the supervent chimney below my open trusses with it converting from single wall pipe? I could set the chimney in the middle of the 24" on center trusses [ no celing yet] to gain max clearance. I'm going to fab my pipe support from steel and strap.

3. The deeper I get into this pipe, it seems more reasonabe to just build a masontry chimney. I'm into about $225 now and as a footnote, I have 2 pallets of old foundry brick from a building that was torn down locally.

What do you think?
Couper

 

[Bobcatter]

There are several ways to reduce your clearance, but I'm sure there are codes that address the issue. There are specific references to look up, so this is from memory, to give you an idea. What would I do? I would use a dry stack of cement blocks close to the stove, leave an air gap and then protect the wall. I think some 26 gauge blocked out (metal studs? pieces of pipe with a lag bolt?) from the wall a about an inch an a half or two would work. You need an air gap that is not trapped - leave a gap at the bottom and the top to allow air to circulate next to the wood. So now your stove could be a foot or foot and a half from the wood, INCLUDING the protection I just described.

For the ceiling, I think the usual is to run the single wall up to the ceiling where it goes into the insulated chimney. There needs to be protection from the single wall pipe to the wall that you are now closer to, again some spaced out 26 gauge metal would work. I'm sure someone has described this already......

 

[fossil]

First step, if you've not already done it, is to round up a copy of the manufacturer's manual for the stove you've got. That will lay down some rules concerning the installation, including whether or not it's even permissible to reduce clearances to combustibles through the use of wall shielding. I'll also include my obligatory admonition that NFPA 211 specifically forbids the installation of a solid fuel-burning appliance in any garage (detached or not) because of the potential for the presence of volatile fumes. This is not law or code...but it may well have been adopted as such by your local authority. Best to check into it. Also with your insurance company. Rick

 

[68 Couper]

Ok, It all sounds like good things to concider. First of all, I need to find a manuel for an old style bb bear. Has anyone seen one online or otherwise. BTW, I'm very glad you told me about the possability of a no-no install. I don't want to piss off a good building inspector.

Thanks,
Couper

 

[68 Couper]

Today I had conversations with the building inspector and Farm Bureau Insurance. I needed the new pole building added to my policy anyway. I don't need a permit of any sort to put a wood stove in my shop or home at all. He did give me a copy of the code for installation for free anyway. Just a note here, you should not use 26 for the heat shield as I have seen advised somewhere before??? The thickness is 24 {.024} with a 1"air gap.

To add the new building, $100,000 contents and riders for wood stoves in both buildings will be an additional $150.00 a year! They want to take pictures after the installs for the policy.

So now I think I'll get some heat out in the building and start working on finishing the interior and building a hearth for the living room.

Thanks for the advice so far, the short delay caused me to notice Menards put their chimney pipe on a good sale this weekend! That should save me at least $100.00.

Thanks,
Couper