Hot horizontal run

[SoutherWis]

Hi Folks,
Yet another greenhorn here with probably a silly question.
I just put a woodstove inside my house and used the 6" class A Stainless pipe with a through the wall application.
Last night was the first fire. I made just a little one with a few 2x6 cuts offs (4or5 16" peices) and everything went smooth, no leaks etc.
I closed her down to where it barely maintained a flame to see how long it would burn, and if it was going to draft ok, how hot things were going to get etc.

About an hour into it the horizontal stainless pipe through the wall became pretty warm. I couldnt hold my hand on it for longer the 4 or 5 seconds.
I didnt think this stuff was suppose to get hot and I became a little concerned. I check outside and everything was cool to the touch.
Is there a maximum that should not be exceeded for horizontal runs? Is my horizontal run too long for the size of my pipe and the length of my chimney...or is this typical and me being a greenhorn am worrying about something I shouldnt be.

The stove outlet is 6"
I used 6" stainless class A Pipe.
From the bottom of the outside "T" the chimney is 13ft tall.
From the stove outlet to the horizontal wall pipe, I have a 16" vertical rise.
(broken image removed)

 

[DAKSY]

Your chimney is probably a couple of feet too short. What does your manual specify for the minimum vertical?

 

[SoutherWis]

Hi Daksy.
I cant find anything that gives me a minimal vertical requirement. I used the Selkirk Duravent and they have installation pdf's available on their site along with the pamphlets that come with the accessories, but I dont find a minimum height or height requirement in them either.
It lists a MAXIMUM which is so that the support bracket is not overloaded but no minimum.

The only thing I'm finding is that they want 3 inches of the pipe to extend into the room. And since I wanted my chimney 9 inches away from the outside wall to clear the eaves, I ended up needing a 24" horizontal to get my 3 inch minimum inside.

(broken image removed)

 

[DAKSY]

What kind of stove did you install?

 

[jjs777_fzr]

Is there a maximum that should not be exceeded for horizontal runs? Is my horizontal run too long for the size of my pipe and the length of my chimney...or is this typical and me being a greenhorn am worrying about something I shouldnt be.

The Selkirk SuperPro Class A states 24" is the maximum horizontal.
Mine gets warm as well - to the point you won't be able to hold your hand on it for longer than a second or two.
I see nothing wrong with that. There's nothing saying you can't affix a magnetic temp gauge on the Class A at least till you get accustomed to how hot she runs.
btw looks like a nice clean install

 

[SoutherWis]

It's a used Atlanta "Homesteader", Daksy.
It looks a lot like the Ashly wood burners with the cabinet around it.

Thanks, jjs777_fzr.
I tried to do it right and not cut any corners. For piece of mind and my insurance company, both.

 

[Mad Tom]

Your horizontal run will get hot. The hand on for a few seconds seems the norm. As long as you met the clearances to that pipe, which If i remember right is 2 inches you should be fine.

 

[SoutherWis]

This is actually Selkirk Duravent though, not Super Pro. I dont know if the specs are the same off the top of my head but I do know they arent interchangeable.

 

[Fire Breathing Dragon]

She's purdy, just peel off the sticker skews before burning much or they will stink and turn grey/black and be harder to clean off later... I know this from experience.

 

[jjs777_fzr]

You said Selkirk Duravent but I know you meant Simpson Duravent as I read that in the original post.

 

[Wood Duck]

If you can put your hand on the pipe it can't be all that hot. I think what you have is a normal temperature - or at least similar to my setup.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Welcome to the forum SoutherWis.

The first thing that strikes me is that it is not odd at all for that pipe to get hot. Ours does even on the outside. But what really struck me is the height of the chimney. 13' is usually minimum but what you have are three 90 degree bends. You can usually subtract 2-3' per 90 degree bend. So if we use the 2' per 90, you have effectively shortened the chimney by 6' which means you have only 7' plus the short vertical part inside. This could cause a problem.

Also, not sure if you did this or not but 1/4" rise per foot of horizontal is required rather than having that horizontal section level.

 

[begreen]

This is not an EPA stove. It doesn't have the draft requirements of a secondary burning stove.

 

[SoutherWis]

Thanks folks, I appreciate the replies.

Welcome to the forum SoutherWis.

The first thing that strikes me is that it is not odd at all for that pipe to get hot. Ours does even on the outside. But what really struck me is the height of the chimney. 13' is usually minimum but what you have are three 90 degree bends. You can usually subtract 2-3' per 90 degree bend. So if we use the 2' per 90, you have effectively shortened the chimney by 6' which means you have only 7' plus the short vertical part inside. This could cause a problem.

Also, not sure if you did this or not but 1/4" rise per foot of horizontal is required rather than having that horizontal section level.

Thanks for the welcome, Backwoods Savage.
Maybe I should clarify on my chimney height. The originally stated 13 feet was based on the fact that I have 4, 3' foot sections plus the 12" inch "T" all running perfectly vertical outside the building. I didnt include anything inside the house when I gave that height.
Inside the house, I guess I'm another 25 inches or so with everything, to the actual stove connection. Is that still a problem?

As far as the required tilt. I actually have a 3/8 rise on that 24 inch section, instead of the required 1/2. I can certainly give it another 1/8 inch of thats whats making this section so hot.

Fire Breathing Dragon...I almost forgot about those skew stickers. Thanks for the reminder.

jjs777_fzr... I picked up a magnetic thermometer. Thanks for that by the way, and it told me that pipe is running around 140°. That seems safe...am I right?

(broken image removed)

 

[jjs777_fzr]

Thanks folks, I appreciate the replies.



Thanks for the welcome, Backwoods Savage.
Maybe I should clarify on my chimney height. The originally stated 13 feet was based on the fact that I have 4, 3' foot sections plus the 12" inch "T" all running perfectly vertical outside the building. I didnt include anything inside the house when I gave that height.
Inside the house, I guess I'm another 25 inches or so with everything, to the actual stove connection. Is that still a problem?

As far as the required tilt. I actually have a 3/8 rise on that 24 inch section, instead of the required 1/2. I can certainly give it another 1/8 inch of thats whats making this section so hot.

Fire Breathing Dragon...I almost forgot about those skew stickers. Thanks for the reminder.

jjs777_fzr... I picked up a magnetic thermometer. Thanks for that by the way, and it told me that pipe is running around 140°. That seems safe...am I right?

Glad to see the temp gauge on the Class A - if nothing more it gives peace of mind. Yeah I'd say that 140F is fine. And as I'm sure you are aware - those temp gauge things are typically for single wall pipe as far as the readings go - so pay no attention to the markings creasote, burn zone and overfire while its stuck to your Class A.

Edit - I wanted to add that I agree with the previous comment about height - I'd definitely look to extend the height by at least another 3 feet.

 

[SoutherWis]

I dont have a problem picking up another length and extending my height. I'd have to manufacturer something to tie it to my roof but I'm no stranger to that stuff.
What will extending my chimney do though? Is it going to make better draft or cool the horizontal run? Or do those two things work hand in hand?
If extending the chimney is for draft alone, I have incredible draft. It'll actually pull the door shut once it's hot if I leave it cracked while I grab a log or something.

 

[begreen]

The surface temp on the class A looks to be about where I would expect it. As long as the thimble is installed with the proper clearances it should be fine. Move the thermometer onto one of the faces of the elbow for a more realistic reading of flue temps. If you are not getting any smoke spillage, I wouldn't add any pipe unless/until you change out for an EPA stove. Your Homesteader doesn't need the draft that modern stoves need.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I would not worry now that you have the thimble installed. And the temperatures you are giving are not extreme. The only concern is clearances which you no doubt have taken care when you installed. So sit back and enjoy the heat!

 

[clemsonfor]

the US stove 1100b, says it can be run with an 11ft chimney. thats the first epa stove that i have heard of that can run or is reccomended with anything less than 15ft, the height you guys always say.

 

[corey21]

the US stove 1100b, says it can be run with an 11ft chimney. thats the first epa stove that i have heard of that can run or is reccomended with anything less than 15ft, the height you guys always say.

My Mag runs fine with a 12 foot chimney.

But with wet wood it don't but that is to be expected.

 

[SoutherWis]

I cant truly tell any of you folks how much I appreciate the conversation and feedback. I was pretty concerned and couldn't find out very much locally.
To say you guys have given me a little piece of mind would be a gross understatement.

 

[begreen]

the US stove 1100b, says it can be run with an 11ft chimney. thats the first epa stove that i have heard of that can run or is reccomended with anything less than 15ft, the height you guys always say.

Should be possible with a simpler secondary system. There are definitely EPA stoves that can work ok with a 12 ft straight up chimney. Some are cat stoves and the non-cat Jotul F3CB, Morso 2110 and Quad Isle Royale also come to mind.

For some reason I haven't been able to find that info for the 1100b in their docs, though I'm not doubting it. Where was it posted?

 

[SoutherWis]

So just out of curiosity, what type of reading with the temp gauge setting on the class "A" pipe....would warrant concern to you guys with experience?
Tonight I moved it from the single wall flue up to the Class "A" just out of curiosity and I got a 200° reading.

 

[tfdchief]

What is your elevation there. That makes a difference in needed flue height as well. My Hampton calls for a minimum of 12 feet of chimney at 0 to 1000 feet. 16.5 feet at 9000 ft. I am at 656 ft and have 13.5 feet of chimney and it draws very well.

 

[tfdchief]

So just out of curiosity, what type of reading with the temp gauge setting on the class "A" pipe....would warrant concern to you guys with experience?
Tonight I moved it from the single wall flue up to the Class "A" just out of curiosity and I got a 200° reading.

It is not the temperature of the class A that you should worry about. It is the temperature of the combustibles in proximity. If your wall thimble is correct for the application and installed properly, giving you the proper clearance to combustibles, you should be fine. To answer your question a little more directly......the rule of thumb for a combustible surface to be safe is no more than 100 degrees plus ambient.

Edit: Those who "throw caution to the wind" are the ones who burn their house down. You keep questioning. You will be fine. It looks like a clean install to me. The only thing that bothers me is the wood paneling. That stuff is thin and doesn't take much to get going.