How am I doing with this chimney cleaning?

[BC_Josh]

Hi. I just wanted to check with other users of a 'sooteater' or other brand of chimney cleaning kit on a BK cat stove. I wanted to show this photo and get some feedback and see if I'm doing this OK. As you can see, I've propped up a section of chimney pipe with a piece of firewood after sliding it up into the one above it, so I could get my rods and 'medusa head' up the chimney on the end of my drill.

I did it with the bypass closed. Afterwards, I vacuumed up all the soot/creosote flakes as well as the back of the cat from inside the top of the stove. And, cleaned the cat from the inside of the stove as well, with a gentle vacuuming. Then, of course, I reassembled the whole thing. I think next time, I will take the bottom ring off the chimney pipe and pull the whole thing apart as a bottom unit. You can see I left it on in the photo and it was tricky getting it back together. As soon as I loosened the screws on the bottom ring, it all clunked together without too much trouble. Just seems easier to leave it as one piece, the ring with the pipe piece.

All in all, I got about a quart of sandy, soot/creosote cleaned out of the chimney. It's about an 15' tall chimney. Is that doing OK? That is about how much was gotten out of it before when it was cleaned 2 or 2 1/2 months ago.

Thanks, Josh

 

[stoveliker]

I use a bag taped on the pipe to catch the soot. Little hole in it for the rods to get through.

A quart in 2.5 months is a bit much, especially for a short chimney,.imo.
But if it's not shiny, but dull or gray, it's fine.

 

[BC_Josh]

I use a bag taped on the pipe to catch the soot. Little hole in it for the rods to get through.

A quart in 2.5 months is a bit much, especially for a short chimney,.imo.
But if it's not shiny, but dull or gray, it's fine.

Yeah, I'll use a bag next time around. It'll save a lot of cleaning up afterwards. Do you take out a section of pipe or do what I did by sliding it up inside the one above it?

The stuff that I got out of the chimney was black soot, but not shiny. I made a mistake, though, I just emptied the vacuum cannister and it was more like a half a quart, which is likely a lot better . I bought a fresh air intake kit, so hopefully by installing it, that will help with getting more steady burns and reducing this buildup in the future.

 

[stoveliker]

My piping is a bit different, but in your case I'd not take a section out, unless it's easier - I mean it doesn't really matter. Do what's easy and how it's easy to contain the mess.

Half a quart is better. I don't think the outside air kit will make a difference in the build up. (Though such a kit is good for efficiency, as in you're not pumping heated room air up the chimney any longer.)

 

[BC_Josh]

Half a quart is better. I don't think the outside air kit will make a difference in the build up. (Though such a kit is good for efficiency, as in you're not pumping heated room air up the chimney any longer.)

Thanks for the responses, Stoveliker. I look forward to getting the fresh air intake installed. Then, I can confidently turn on the fresh air intake fan to the furnace. The main intake vent is right next to the stove, about a foot away (I know that codes in the US say not to install a stove less than 10' away from any fresh air intake vent, but I don't know what it says in BC, Canada where I live). I like having the fan on, to recirculate the air, and keep it cooler in the small room that the stove is in.

 

[stoveliker]

Be sure to insulate your ducts well - generally moving heat around with furnace air movement is not very efficient due to the relatively low temperature of the air in the stove room versus what normally comes out of a furnace. If ducts go out of the insulated envelope (e.g. an attic), make sure they are sealed well and insulated well.

 

[Highbeam]

Hi. I just wanted to check with other users of a 'sooteater' or other brand of chimney cleaning kit on a BK cat stove. I wanted to show this photo and get some feedback and see if I'm doing this OK. As you can see, I've propped up a section of chimney pipe with a piece of firewood after sliding it up into the one above it, so I could get my rods and 'medusa head' up the chimney on the end of my drill.

I did it with the bypass closed. Afterwards, I vacuumed up all the soot/creosote flakes as well as the back of the cat from inside the top of the stove. And, cleaned the cat from the inside of the stove as well, with a gentle vacuuming. Then, of course, I reassembled the whole thing. I think next time, I will take the bottom ring off the chimney pipe and pull the whole thing apart as a bottom unit. You can see I left it on in the photo and it was tricky getting it back together. As soon as I loosened the screws on the bottom ring, it all clunked together without too much trouble. Just seems easier to leave it as one piece, the ring with the pipe piece.

All in all, I got about a quart of sandy, soot/creosote cleaned out of the chimney. It's about an 15' tall chimney. Is that doing OK? That is about how much was gotten out of it before when it was cleaned 2 or 2 1/2 months ago.

Thanks, Josh

View attachment 325929

Why not just shove the medusa head and rods right up through the stove door and bypass and into the pipe? Keeps all the mess in the stove.

 

[Tron]

Why not just shove the medusa head and rods right up through the stove door and bypass and into the pipe? Keeps all the mess in the stove.

That's what I will try in the fall when the next cleaning is done. And after that take off the bottom section of the pipe to vacuum behind the cat and around the bypass door.

 

[Highbeam]

That's what I will try in the fall when the next cleaning is done. And after that take off the bottom section of the pipe to vacuum behind the cat and around the bypass door.

That's been my routine the last several years. Lets you be certain that all the junk is out, you can see the back of your cat is clean, and you can lube and adjust the bypass mechanism. My sooteater rods have no problem making the bend up into the flue from the firebox.

 

[Tron]

and you can lube and adjust the bypass mechanism

Any recommendation for a high-temperature lube for that application?
I usually use copper paste for that, might be worth a try.

Also, did you have to do much adjustment? And how is it adjusted?
My bypass door still runs smoothly, so I don't suppose any adjustment is needed, but lubrication can't hurt in any case.

 

[stoveliker]

graphite?
(not sure if it would get hot enough for it to react to CO2..?)

 

[Highbeam]

Any recommendation for a high-temperature lube for that application?
I usually use copper paste for that, might be worth a try.

Also, did you have to do much adjustment? And how is it adjusted?
My bypass door still runs smoothly, so I don't suppose any adjustment is needed, but lubrication can't hurt in any case.

Antiseize lubricant. I’m using the copper variety now. Lube the contact points. It will of course burn off and leave a powder plating behind. Use the same lube for the thermostat.

The adjustment is mostly in the early years to accommodate initial gasket crush. There is a bolt with a locknut. Be sure to loosen the locknut and make small adjustments before rechecking for the audible click and tactile cam over feeling. It’s like adjusting old engine valves. I don’t really think that having a tight bypass gasket is as important as say a door gasket but lubing the mechanism is good maintenance.

 

[Tron]

@Highbeam, thanks!
I'll get my lubricant and a q-tip next time I clean the flue.

 

[Tron]

(not sure if it would get hot enough for it to react to CO2..?)

Graphite will start to burn off above roughly 700C/1300F, so probably not. I don't think temperatures near the bypass reach that high, not even during startup with the bypass open.