How can I tell when it's time to retire a chain?

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WireNut

Member
May 30, 2013
80
Kingston, NY
This past weekend I got fed up with how slowly my chainsaw was cutting, and decided to replace it with my spare. The difference was immediately noticeable (and my spare is not new, it's got 4 or 5 cords on it). My primary chain most likely had 20 cords or so, and as a rule of thumb I put an edge on it with a file after each tank of gas (fill gas, oil, and 2 or 3 sweeps on each tooth while checking for damage). I can't see the chain as significantly worn down, and I regularly check my rakers and file where necessary, which is very rarely. I did overheat the chain once (wood smoked and had black marks on it), and another wood-cutting friend told me I may have lost the temper on the chain.

Should I take the chain in to be sharpened, or should I just toss it and buy a new replacement? How many cords should I expect to get out of a chain cutting hardwoods (mostly oak and maple)? I know there's no exact number, but 20 cords seems low to me.

I run a Stihl 460 with an aggressive chain. The saw will be going in for maintenance this winter since I think my carburetor is getting gummy (I use 93 octane with ethanol killer and a touch extra oil in the gas mix). That saw is my baby, my previous saw was a hand-me-down from my grandfather, to my father, to me....it weighed a ton but the mechanical components had a bit of slop and spare parts were nowhere to be found.
 
You can pretty much sharpen a chain until the teeth are gone or you have worn out the drivers.

If its really not cutting take out to a good shop for a sharpening, or go buy a new chain and use that as a good reference for your hand filing, and sharpen yourself.

How old are your files? Are they worn smooth?
 
That's what I thought, and how I've always proceeded in the past. I'm pretty good at keeping the angle by hand, maybe it's just time to have the teeth ground down a little. They don't seem to be getting razor sharp with the file anymore.
 
I had my chains sharpened at one place and they ruined them so I would be careful. I put a new chain on when I start cutting wood in the fall and then another in the spring. I'd rather spend some money on new chains and be able cut fast as opposed to trying to keep an old chain going. I am cutting brush now so I am beating up one of my old chains.;) I also buy new files quite often.
 
I try to keep 3 or 4 chains in service. I at least will have 2 sharp. one is a carbide chain
which is awesome and can take a few ground hits. Sandy type wood doesn't effect it at all.
 
I own one chain per saw. Don't remember how old the present chain is on the most used saw. The new one was bought in January so it has not cut much. However, we usually cut from 5-9 cord of wood per year and up to this last winter it was all with the one saw. As stated, that chain is so old I don't remember when I had bought it. It still has a few years left on it. I have also always used the dremel type sharpener for sharpening except once or twice to touch up with a hand file.

EDIT; Just looked it up and I bought the last chain before the 2009-2010 cutting season. No wonder it still has lots of cutting to do.
 
As said above you should be able to use that chain until the teeth are pretty small. Don't know by what you've said but I take from context you are just using a file with no file guide if so get your self a file holder/guide so there is no guessing on the angle side to side. I do use just a file occasionally if out cutting just to dress. I have never taken a chain to be sharpened and do not using anything but file and guide. I did get a file guide for my Husqvarna that has a flat file and a round file so you can file raker and tooth at the same time but I take the flat file off and only use it about every 3rd or 4th time sharpening. With all that said I have ran into a chain or two that I just could not get to hold a good edge that satisfied me so rather than waste time I just replaced.
 
I run my chains till they start losing teeth. Rule of thumb is till they're sharpened back to the laser etched "witness mark" on the cutter. On full chisel chain if the point isn't as sharp as a needle it ain't sharp. Check raker height too. On a 460 you can go a touch below spec on the rakers for faster cutting. Plenty of power for a 20" bar. Just don't go too far, they get rough & grabby. A C
 
Till the teeth as so small your worried they will break off. I still have the original chain from 04 I don't use it as the teeth are small but that was last year. I use a grinder to sharpen now so I take a bit more metal than hand but it also gets nice n sharp.

I would say get new files. I would go to ur saw store and get a new chain and take this one to get ground back in shape.
 
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