Serial number 1701X, anybody know how to tell the age based on the serial number? I don't see any other data on the metal tag--just the serial number.
Thanks
NP
Thanks
NP
How Can You Tell The Age Of An Jotul F500?
- Thread starter Nonprophet
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firefighterjake said:Cut it in two and count the number of rings you see inside?
Bastard, I was just scrolling to the bottom to type that same answer.
Could I just cut one of the wood knobs in half and count those rings?? I kind of like the stove.........
NP
NP
WOODBUTCHER said:
Thanks. Is there a year when that change took place? I have the cast iron baffles, I must admit that I think I'd rather have those than the vermiculite ones as it seems the cast iron would last much longer.......Was the changeover done to save money, or is there some other proclaimed benefit to the vermiculite baffles??
NP
Nonprophet said:
I may not be remembering this right . . . but I thought some folks with the cast iron baffles had some issues with warping or cracking . . . but don't hold me to it . . . I could be thinking of something else.
So far with Year #2 almost done I think I can safely say the baffle board in the Oslo is pretty decent . . . the burn tubes kind of, sort of protect it from bashing by wood . . . it is very rare that the wood I am loading into the stove comes into contact with the baffle board unless I'm trying to wedge in that last piece . . . and I try not to do that any more.
I've posed the same question here and didn't receive any feedback. Around the same time, Jotul changed the handle on the ash pan door. I have an "older" model about the same year as yours.Nonprophet said:
I don't know the year the changeover happened. I have seen reports of warped iron baffle plates, but I don't know if that happens over time normally or if there was some other issue (like misplaced baffles having a little gap in the back, leading to local overheating there).Nonprophet said:
The vermiculite baffle is potentially more fragile, but I have not been careful at all in this first season when I load wood, and it has suffered no damage that is visible. I'm sure I've scraped the corners of splits along the baffle between the tubes on more than one occasion, but an inspection with a mirror shows no damage. So, while it's undoubtedly more mechanically fragile than cast iron, it does not seem all that delicate.
While I don't know this from Jotul, a very plausible reason for going to the vermiculite is to get higher temperatures near the tubes more quickly. I get good secondary combustion on a cold start often as early as 300F stovetop.
...just to add...
I've got a used Oslo with the Cast Iron plates too.
The original manual that came with mine is date stamped "19 Feb 2003", ...serial # (from an extra silver tag/sticker that came with the stove "Serial no. :2003 W-0217 -" ...I'll need to check the metal tag on the back of the stove as this doesn't appear to be a complete number...?
I've got a used Oslo with the Cast Iron plates too.
The original manual that came with mine is date stamped "19 Feb 2003", ...serial # (from an extra silver tag/sticker that came with the stove "Serial no. :2003 W-0217 -" ...I'll need to check the metal tag on the back of the stove as this doesn't appear to be a complete number...?
they went to vermiculite because the iron baffle plates warp at higher temps....there were too many complaints and so the fix was vermiculite.
When I bought my Oslo in 2004, It was one of the first questions I asked, since some dealers had Oslo's on the floor with cast..... some with vermiculite.
The dealers with Oslo's with cast baffles said "it was to cut costs" The dealers with Oslo's with vermiculite said "Jotul had some isolated trouble with the cast warping"
WoodButcher
The dealers with Oslo's with cast baffles said "it was to cut costs" The dealers with Oslo's with vermiculite said "Jotul had some isolated trouble with the cast warping"
WoodButcher
WOODBUTCHER said:
Yeah, lol, that's pretty much what I figured I'd hear if I asked a dealer--I was hoping maybe someone here might know the real story......... Personally, I like the idea of the cast baffles, as it seems more durable than the vermiculite or ceramic baffles some stove makers are now using. I suppose if mine ever warp I might have to replace them with vermiculite if the cast ones are no longer available.
NP
I would be very interested to know if the older Oslos with the cast iron baffle plate also have the original "inspection cover" -- ie. the cover in front of the stove that goes over the air valve and controls the max air allowed.
The new ones - I have an '09 model - have 3 pen+ size holes in the inspection cover. The stove is really starved for air - especially on start up. I loosened the cover and put a couple of small bolts between the cover and the stove - wow, what a difference! Have since taken the bolts out again and my stove is back to its original very sluggish performance - especially from a cold start.
I understand that North America is the only market where this inspection cover is required. I checked with a Jotul dealer in Europe - their parts manual for the Oslo show 2 different #'s for the covers: designated as the "OLD" one and the "NEW" one--wrote the #'s down, but can't locate them on my messy desk!!
Has anyone every pursued this and actually purchased the "OLD" one? What is the difference between the OLD one and the New one? I presume that our stoves have the NEW one.
Has anyone drilled addtional holes in their cover plate?
BTW, I am sure that there will be reponses to this post that question the wood I am using. Let me clear this up! I recently purchased a moisture meter for about $100. I took it to a sawmill down the road to check it against theirs - a $2500 unit!! We checked several pieces of wood. Mine doesn't show decimals - the mill one does. The whole number readings were identical in each case. ie. mine - 14% theirs - 14.5% etc.
Except for the kindling, I have been checking each and every piece of wood that goes into the Oslo. The lowest has been 6% - the highest 12%. Most is between 8 and 10%.
The new ones - I have an '09 model - have 3 pen+ size holes in the inspection cover. The stove is really starved for air - especially on start up. I loosened the cover and put a couple of small bolts between the cover and the stove - wow, what a difference! Have since taken the bolts out again and my stove is back to its original very sluggish performance - especially from a cold start.
I understand that North America is the only market where this inspection cover is required. I checked with a Jotul dealer in Europe - their parts manual for the Oslo show 2 different #'s for the covers: designated as the "OLD" one and the "NEW" one--wrote the #'s down, but can't locate them on my messy desk!!
Has anyone every pursued this and actually purchased the "OLD" one? What is the difference between the OLD one and the New one? I presume that our stoves have the NEW one.
Has anyone drilled addtional holes in their cover plate?
BTW, I am sure that there will be reponses to this post that question the wood I am using. Let me clear this up! I recently purchased a moisture meter for about $100. I took it to a sawmill down the road to check it against theirs - a $2500 unit!! We checked several pieces of wood. Mine doesn't show decimals - the mill one does. The whole number readings were identical in each case. ie. mine - 14% theirs - 14.5% etc.
Except for the kindling, I have been checking each and every piece of wood that goes into the Oslo. The lowest has been 6% - the highest 12%. Most is between 8 and 10%.
nelraq said:
Well, bear in mind that I've had my Oslo for all of 4 days.......
Are you referring to the metal cover over the air inlet just inside the front door? I've seen people refer to this as the "dog house." On my stove (I have the cast iron baffles) it's held in place by two 10mm bolts and it has three pen-sized holes that allow air into the firebox.....are we talking about the same thing?
The day I got the stove I did a search here for "Jotul Oslo" and came across a few threads where others were complaining about the same thing--and some of them had drilled additional holes into the cover. I must admit though I can't see how the ones in Europe would have no cover, as ash would rapidly fill the area by the air intake plate which would eventually stop it from sliding back and forth with the primary air control lever.....
As we all know each stove has it's own unique preferred way of start up (kind of like an outboard motor) and I'm still learning with my Oslo. Last night I had the best results with putting in my paper and kindling and then leaving the front door cracked open about 2". As the fire got stronger the front door wanted to close, so I pulled the handle down like I was closing it, and then lest the door latch pin rest against the frame of the stove, thereby creating about a 3/8" gap that allowed enough air to get in and keep the fire burning well. Still, I don't know why Jotul engineers saw fit to only have three holes there, nor do I understand why oh why the would design an air control lever that get's so hot that you can't touch it without gloves??? lol.
Interestingly enough, my Oslo came with both the US manual and the European manual. In looking at the exploded parts view diagram, the "air intake manifold" (#19) is pictured the same in both manuals but looks very different from what I have! The one in the manual is flat, even forming a slight depression, while the one in my stove is raised about 2" (dome-like) from the surface it's mounted on.......what's up with that???
NP
Well, bear in mind that I’ve had my Oslo for all of 4 days…....
Are you referring to the metal cover over the air inlet just inside the front door? I’ve seen people refer to this as the “dog house.” On my stove (I have the cast iron baffles) it’s held in place by two 10mm bolts and it has three pen-sized holes that allow air into the firebox…..are we talking about the same thing?
The day I got the stove I did a search here for “Jotul Oslo” and came across a few threads where others were complaining about the same thing—and some of them had drilled additional holes into the cover. I must admit though I can’t see how the ones in Europe would have no cover, as ash would rapidly fill the area by the air intake plate which would eventually stop it from sliding back and forth with the primary air control lever…..
As we all know each stove has it’s own unique preferred way of start up (kind of like an outboard motor) and I’m still learning with my Oslo. Last night I had the best results with putting in my paper and kindling and then leaving the front door cracked open about 2”. As the fire got stronger the front door wanted to close, so I pulled the handle down like I was closing it, and then lest the door latch pin rest against the frame of the stove, thereby creating about a 3/8” gap that allowed enough air to get in and keep the fire burning well. Still, I don’t know why Jotul engineers saw fit to only have three holes there, nor do I understand why oh why the would design an air control lever that get’s so hot that you can’t touch it without gloves??? lol.
Interestingly enough, my Oslo came with both the US manual and the European manual. In looking at the exploded parts view diagram, the “air intake manifold” (#19) is pictured the same in both manuals but looks very different from what I have! The one in the manual is flat, even forming a slight depression, while the one in my stove is raised about 2” (dome-like) from the surface it’s mounted on…....what’s up with that???
NP
Yes, we are talking about the same thing. Sounds like your doghouse is the same as mine! The stoves in Europe still have a doghouse cover - but it's designed differently from ours--I'm assuming that lots more air gets in on the European models.
The Castine, which is one size smaller than the Oslo, comes with 2 covers - one marked EUR and the other USA. Sounds like most people that have the Castine are running the EUR cover. i've looked at them at the dealer, and the EUR definitely allows more air in.
I have kept the side door open in order to get the fire going, but won't do that anymore. Last time I just cracked it open, got distracted by something, then went into town for an hour. When I got home I was surprised to see that the fire was pretty well out -- then I noticed the open door!! Good thing I didn't have a full load of wood in the stove! Actually, it probably wouldn't have made a difference! The highest I've ever got the stove top is 650 degrees- and that was after constantly feeding it small, dry wood for close to 3 hours!!
There's no point in putting a kettle on the stove - I don't think it wood ever boil!
Are you referring to the metal cover over the air inlet just inside the front door? I’ve seen people refer to this as the “dog house.” On my stove (I have the cast iron baffles) it’s held in place by two 10mm bolts and it has three pen-sized holes that allow air into the firebox…..are we talking about the same thing?
The day I got the stove I did a search here for “Jotul Oslo” and came across a few threads where others were complaining about the same thing—and some of them had drilled additional holes into the cover. I must admit though I can’t see how the ones in Europe would have no cover, as ash would rapidly fill the area by the air intake plate which would eventually stop it from sliding back and forth with the primary air control lever…..
As we all know each stove has it’s own unique preferred way of start up (kind of like an outboard motor) and I’m still learning with my Oslo. Last night I had the best results with putting in my paper and kindling and then leaving the front door cracked open about 2”. As the fire got stronger the front door wanted to close, so I pulled the handle down like I was closing it, and then lest the door latch pin rest against the frame of the stove, thereby creating about a 3/8” gap that allowed enough air to get in and keep the fire burning well. Still, I don’t know why Jotul engineers saw fit to only have three holes there, nor do I understand why oh why the would design an air control lever that get’s so hot that you can’t touch it without gloves??? lol.
Interestingly enough, my Oslo came with both the US manual and the European manual. In looking at the exploded parts view diagram, the “air intake manifold” (#19) is pictured the same in both manuals but looks very different from what I have! The one in the manual is flat, even forming a slight depression, while the one in my stove is raised about 2” (dome-like) from the surface it’s mounted on…....what’s up with that???
NP
Yes, we are talking about the same thing. Sounds like your doghouse is the same as mine! The stoves in Europe still have a doghouse cover - but it's designed differently from ours--I'm assuming that lots more air gets in on the European models.
The Castine, which is one size smaller than the Oslo, comes with 2 covers - one marked EUR and the other USA. Sounds like most people that have the Castine are running the EUR cover. i've looked at them at the dealer, and the EUR definitely allows more air in.
I have kept the side door open in order to get the fire going, but won't do that anymore. Last time I just cracked it open, got distracted by something, then went into town for an hour. When I got home I was surprised to see that the fire was pretty well out -- then I noticed the open door!! Good thing I didn't have a full load of wood in the stove! Actually, it probably wouldn't have made a difference! The highest I've ever got the stove top is 650 degrees- and that was after constantly feeding it small, dry wood for close to 3 hours!!
There's no point in putting a kettle on the stove - I don't think it wood ever boil!
Well, in looking at it again I listed the wrong part--it's actually #34 on the exploded view (not #19) and it's called the "inspection cover." I saw the other thread here on the Castines with the two different covers--does anyone know if the Oslo comes with two options? Has anyone else here drilled another hole or tow into the U.S Oslo inspection cover? If so, did you notice any improvement??
Thanks!
NP
Thanks!
NP
nelraq said:
Nelraq,
Don't take this the wrong way...but instead of re-engineering the stove, you might look into the fact that you may have a draft problem.
What's the height of your stack? (explain your stack setup, height, rear exit etc...)....have you tried opening a window? Just my 2 cents.....I wouldn't be drilling holes into a stove I've only had for 4 days.
It may just be a leaning curve........but doubt it
You shouldn't have to feed it small, dry wood for close to 3 hours.......(that sounds like a draft problem)...if your sure your wood is dry.
WoodButcher
I'd place my bets on wood that's not really dry. My exterior masonry chimney is not very tall, plus it's an 8" square liner, so it's not optimum for producing huge draft. Even so, I never need to crack a door open or feed the stove tiny wood for hours to get it going. That is, as long as the wood is really dry. I had some 2+ year oak and some 1.5 year oak this season. Some of the 1.5 year old pieces seemed dry, but needed extra air to get it going by cracking the side door open for a few minutes.WOODBUTCHER said:
grommal said:
Well...lets ask him....see if we can help him out and figure out his problem.
Hey Nelraq,
How long has your wood been cut,split, stacked and.....when you tested with your meter, did you re-split and check the center?
Also give us details about your chimney setup (height etc....) and what happens when leaving a window open.
WoodButcher
...just stepping in since I've got the older Oslo too (cast baffle plates).
The "inspection cover" (Item#24 in my manual (p.18) ...? sounds exactly as 'nonprophet' mentioned.
I'm new here too, ...as well to the Oslo. I have found that the air adjustment is VERY responsive. I first need to leave the side door open a bit to get the flames going (a few minutes), ...then shut the door. If it's a new fire (ie. no hot coals) I'll leave the air mid to "+" for a bit, ...then lower. If I've got hot coals, ...I set it "-" to mid-range and let it go. If I've got a fire that's 'going down', ...and slide the air all the way to "+", ...in minutes it flames right up again.
Regarding draft, ...I will comment, ...when I have the side door open (with fresh wood on hot ashes), ...it's like a vacuum sucking air in. Just to add, ...I have 2' vertical to a 90 degree elbow above the stove, ...2' horizontal to the "T" and 22' (8" stack) going up.
Kevin
The "inspection cover" (Item#24 in my manual (p.18) ...?
sounds exactly as 'nonprophet' mentioned.I'm new here too, ...as well to the Oslo. I have found that the air adjustment is VERY responsive. I first need to leave the side door open a bit to get the flames going (a few minutes), ...then shut the door. If it's a new fire (ie. no hot coals) I'll leave the air mid to "+" for a bit, ...then lower. If I've got hot coals, ...I set it "-" to mid-range and let it go. If I've got a fire that's 'going down', ...and slide the air all the way to "+", ...in minutes it flames right up again.
Regarding draft, ...I will comment, ...when I have the side door open (with fresh wood on hot ashes), ...it's like a vacuum sucking air in. Just to add, ...I have 2' vertical to a 90 degree elbow above the stove, ...2' horizontal to the "T" and 22' (8" stack) going up.
Kevin
Some good points Kevin.....sounds like you found the groove.KevinK said:...just stepping in since I've got the older Oslo too (cast baffle plates).
The "inspection cover" (Item#24 in my manual (p.18) ...?
I'm new here too, ...as well to the Oslo. I have found that the air adjustment is VERY responsive. I first need to leave the side door open a bit to get the flames going (a few minutes), ...then shut the door. If it's a new fire (ie. no hot coals) I'll leave the air mid to "+" for a bit, ...then lower. If I've got hot coals, ...I set it "-" to mid-range and let it go. If I've got a fire that's 'going down', ...and slide the air all the way to "+", ...in minutes it flames right up again.
Regarding draft, ...I will comment, ...when I have the side door open (with fresh wood on hot ashes), ...it's like a vacuum sucking air in. Just to add, ...I have 2' vertical to a 90 degree elbow above the stove, ...2' horizontal to the "T" and 22' (8" stack) going up.
Kevin
Most of the time my stove is running with the front draft lever 75% or more closed (depending on the temps outside and size of the load.)
The type of wood and the size of the splits will set the table on how much of an overnight burn you’ll get. I usually pack it (large splits) within 3-4 inches of the burntubes for overnight runs.
It will easily overfire if the draft lever is left open all the way for any length of time.
Once the wood is charred and she’s hot (500-600), I’ll knock the front draft lever down 75% or more and then she’ll purr.
Now and then I'll have to crack a door for a few minutes to get the fire going on cold starts.
WoodButcher
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