How do I hook my wood stove up to this chimney?

[Torbay]

Hey all!

Looking for some help identifying the brand of this existing double-wall insulated chimney system and advice on whether the current thimble can be reused.

This setup goes through a concrete basement wall and connects to a 6" pipe for a wood stove. The thimble measures about 10.5" outer diameters. The inner liner is 6".

Outside shot of the chimney included for reference, hoping that might help someone recognize the manufacturer. Unfortunately, there are no visible brand markings anywhere on the chimney or cap.

I’m trying to figure out what adapter I’d need to connect single-wall stove pipe to this, and if the thimble itself is still safe to use or if I should replace it while I’m at it.

Any help or guesses on brand and compatibility would be hugely appreciated.

 

[begreen]

How close is the plastic and wood above this thimble? Visually it looks close enough that double-walled stove pipe will be needed. Single-walled stove pipe requires at least 18" clearance to combustibles.

 

[Torbay]

How close is the plastic and wood above this thimble? Visually it looks close enough that double-walled stove pipe will be needed. Single-walled stove pipe requires at least 18" clearance to combustibles.

I'm thinking the previous homeowner must have had double wall there for that reason.

I was hoping to put a metal panel up there and cover it all up. Would that work, or should I just go double wall?

I already have the single wall pipe purchased, although I can't figure out how to connect it to the thimble regardless lol.

 

[begreen]

The heat coming off of a horizontal section of stove pipe can be substantial. Single-wall can get very hot!
What is the distance from the top of the thimble to the nearest wood? to the plastic?

 

[Torbay]

The heat coming off of a horizontal section of stove pipe can be substantial. Single-wall can get very hot!
What is the distance from the top of the thimble to the nearest wood? to the plastic?

Yes, that's certainly fair. I can get the proper measurements in the morning but I do know that from where the top of the horizontal stove pipe to the wood is 11 inches.

Woukd a large sheet of metal covering the ceiling/plastic help? Or should I just switch to double wall?

Thanks for your advice by the way, I greatly appreciate it!

 

[begreen]

Single-wall will absolutely need a heat shield, on 1" spacers off of the joists and I would not do a 90º elbow but would use a 45 at the thimble with a diagonal offset down to a second 45 to get the heat away from the joist quickly. That setup will also draft better.



That said, if this were my place, I'd use double-wall because it's safer, much better construction (stainless inside liner), and it will keep flue gases hotter for less build up in the chimney.

Also, make some sort of cage around the chimney pipe that will keep leaves at least 2" away from the chimney pipe. Standard 3/8" hardware cloth would work in a pinch.

 

[weee123]

The pipe coming out of the wall definitely looks worse for wear. I’m also not the biggest fan of the cleanout at the bottom of the 90 being completely inaccessible.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Is the exterior Class A 2” from the siding? It’s possible the siding was added after the Class A and now it’s too close.

It’d really ruin the day to have the siding melt, or even catch fire.

 

[Murray01]

The bands holding the Class A chimney looks like Selkirk CF Sentinel measuring 10 1/2” outside diameter. I just installed new CF Sentinel chimney. I’m not an expert nor familiar with other brands of chimney so consider my guess as a guess only.

Dig out the area around the clean out allowing you better access. You don’t need to go too deep, enough room to get your hands in to unscrew the bottom cap and place a container under to catch the soot while sweeping the chimney. In a previous home I had 6” of clearance and that was enough. Keep in mind that by digging a hole next to your foundation you are potentially creating a place to collect water so consider adding something to keep water out. Think window well sort of structure.

 

[all night moe]

The pipe coming out of the wall definitely looks worse for wear. I’m also not the biggest fan of the cleanout at the bottom of the 90 being completely inaccessible.

Agreed. Looks like water has seeped in and done some damage. Possible entrance from the T cleanout? The insulation may also be compromised from getting wet?

Is the exterior Class A 2” from the siding? It’s possible the siding was added after the Class A and now it’s too close.

It’d really ruin the day to have the siding melt, or even catch fire.

It does look awfully close to the siding. Hopefully it's just the pics playing tricks.

 

[Torbay]

Is the exterior Class A 2” from the siding? It’s possible the siding was added after the Class A and now it’s too close.

It’d really ruin the day to have the siding melt, or even catch fire.

I just checked, it's a little over an inch. Which confuses me because it's the original vinyl siding and the previous homeowner used a wood stove extensively

 

[begreen]

I just checked, it's a little over an inch. Which confuses me because it's the original vinyl siding and the previous homeowner used a wood stove extensively

If it is Selkirk Sentinel chimney, the clearance minimum is 2". Given the errors pointed out. There's a good chance that there are other issues. It's doubtful that this was a WETT inspected install.

 

[Torbay]

If it is Selkirk Sentinel chimney, the clearance minimum is 2". Given the errors pointed out. There's a good chance that there are other issues. It's doubtful that this was a WETT inspected install.

View attachment 341493

Copy that. I unfortunately had already purchased a beautiful new stove to hook up to this so I'm going to put it all away and reassess in a couple years.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and advice!

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Don’t admit defeat yet! What needs to be done to fix this?

How hard is it to move the chimney 2” out? It might not be hard at all. It might not be hard to lower that thimble either.

Most of these things aren’t rocket science. Often it’s just a little sweat equity and a little common sense.

 

[Torbay]

Don’t admit defeat yet! What needs to be done to fix this?

How hard is it to move the chimney 2” out? It might not be hard at all. It might not be hard to lower that thimble either.

Most of these things aren’t rocket science. Often it’s just a little sweat equity and a little common sense.

I sent these photos to a WETT inspector and he said it's likely the chimney isn't fit for use judging by the condition of the thimble, in addition to having to move it out. I got a quote of $6000 CAD for redoing it (of course I can probably do it much cheaper with some used class A and DIY).

I'm definitely not in a position to do that this fall though. I will have to put the chainsaw away and spend the winter coming up with a plan for the spring lol.