How long for stove to come up to temperature?

[acp104]

Last weekend I installed a All Nighter stove that appears to be very similar in size/design to a Fisher Mama Bear into an existing 17-18 foot exterior chimney with 7" (inside) tile flue. My single wall stove pipe 90's into the chimney through a Selkirk Wall pass through. After install, I started a kindling fire in the stove and added 4 medium sized seasoned walnut splits for a test burn. At that time, I wasn't sure where to run the draft caps, so I ended up leaving them at about 3 turns out during the whole burn. I didn't have a stove pipe thermometer or infrared gun at that time (do now), but I just don't feel like the stove was getting very hot based on the fact that I could touch the stove pipe briefly without burning my hand. I never did add wood to that fire, but it seemed to be burning pretty well every time I opened the door. I plan to burn the stove again tomorrow, and think I'll try some sugar maple this time and maybe a little fuller stove. I assume the stove should get up to temp in at least 30 minutes if I'm burning good dry wood and my chimney's not sucking up all my heat, correct? This time around I also plan to monitor pipe temp just before it goes into the pass through with a stove pipe thermometer and monitor stove temp with an infrared thermometer from Harbor Freight. I gather that my goal should be to maintain at least 250 degrees on the thermometer before the pass through, and that I should see 450 plus on the stove top. There is a cleanout door on the chimney out side that is not sealed, so I figured I better seal that with some silicone so that it can't pull cool air in from the bottom.

 

[coaly]

Sounds like you're on the right track. (except for the stove selection )

Operation is similar to Fisher, but I can't tell you how many turns are normal since that only adjusts the square inch opening and I'm only familiar with the opening size and thread per inch on fisher intakes. 3 turns would be too much for Fisher once going. One turn each is normal for them once up to temp.
I'd say it takes an hour for temps to stabilize after lighting. Once established, fill the stove unless it's too much heat for the area.
The temp you're aiming for is staying above 250* to the top of chimney flue. This would only be know with thermocouple temp measurement or probe thermometers which is not practical. So it becomes a guess as to how hot to run the pipe temp before chimney. Surface temperature is going to be about half the actual inside flue gas temp. It is highly variable with air cooling pipe, and velocity of flue gasses. Allowing the hot gasses to expand is a huge factor. I've measured drops from over 300 to 170* f going from 6 to 8 inch. So guessing 250 surface temp is about 500 flue gas, expanding and cooling as it rises may or may not be enough to prevent creosote. You can only check it frequently and increase your flue temps if tends to form more creosote too rapidly. Some like to burn hot to avoid mid season cleaning, other don't mind cleaning once or even twice during the season. Just keep an eye on it until you know how much you produce.

** Anything combustible near the stove needs to have 36 inch clearance and 18 inches to single wall pipe. If that is cement board covering or in contact with wood, it is not a heat shield. **

 

[acp104]

Ha-ha, I know, I know on the stove brand. I'm already keeping an eye out for Fishers after getting acquainted with this forum. Sorry I keep posting my stove questions for my All Nighter in the Fisher forum, but it seems like the best place to get the Fisher guru (you) to share that detailed info that likely applies to the knockoffs too. Thanks for doing so! That material in the pic is directly on the wood wall, and I had learned that type of setup isn't approved to reduced clearances at all. It was like that from the previous owners and they had single wall pipe passing right through that with zero clearance and the wood siding only clearanced a couple inches at most. After installing the pass through, I ended up just connecting a 90 to it instead of adding a piece of pipe and that left me at about 24" clearance for the stove and 12" for the pipe from the cement board or whatever it is. I know it wasn't right, but it was a temporary setup so I could try the stove out. Probably a bad idea. I was hoping to do a couple test burns to see if that Chimney was going to work, as well as see how well the stove heated up this unfinished shed. Figured if the chimney at least drafted and allowed the stove to produce decent heat I'd start working on insulating the building. If I can't get the stove up to temp today, I probably won't burn the stove anymore this winter and start formulating a plan for a liner.

 

[coaly]

At least you have a wood handle there as a warning device to let you know when over firing.
A couple sheet metal shields at least an inch away from wall and combustibles will keep it cool. Just measure from stove diagonally up the wall to make the shield high enough so you don't have less than 36 to anything combustible. Yeah, direct contact radiates heat right through and is still a combustible. I've stood 1/2 cement board up for heat shield and it gets just as hot on the back of it. The rising air in the air space behind shield is what carries the heat away.
You should get more like 600 or a bit more on the stove top when loaded and up to temp. Half that would be nice on the pipe before chimney, but that's about as good as I get with a baffle added. I'd expect a hotter pipe than 1/2 stove top without baffle. (1/2 the stove top temp on pipe surface) Try to get the surface temps of the pipe on the side facing away from stove with the IR. Radiated heat from stove affects the pipe temp a lot.
Those ugly stoves are fine for a shed. Don't you dare put it in your house.

 

[acp104]

Lol. I'd really like to find a small Fisher stove or insert for an existing masonry fireplace in my basement. I found a full sized insert local on Craigslist, but learned it was just a little too big for the opening. Plus he wanted 600 which seemed a bit high to me. Yeah, I need to just go ahead and put up a sheet metal shield even if its a short term solution. Probably would be quick and cheap for what I need