I'm getting great heat, even overnight and waking up to red bed of coals and heat still coming out of the blower. I am using pretty good wood - dry on the inside for sure but maybe a bit wet outside but well below 18%, most is 10%-12% outside only. On start-up, I can get into the active state for the cat. I let it go 20-30 mins, close the bypass, turn on the blower and lower the thermostat to the lowest setting. It's well in the red for a few hours but after that drops to the inactive zone, even though there is 1/3 of the wood left Still plenty of heat though. Prior to that (when it's in the active state) the cat is red hot and wood is hot red as well. I do see an burst of flame however (almost like I turned the thermostat up all the way - but I don't touch it. This occurs about every 5 mins than it's out. As far as I can tell I am following all instructions. Curious of others are experience similar active state times as well as the flair ups when the thermostat is set low? I'm tried small fires and packing it full with similar results.
How long should stove remain in active (cat on, state)?
- Thread starter dabbash25
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I just got may intermediate flair up to settle (maybe). I was running the blower at max. I turned it down and it may have just been a coincidence, but it's far more stable. I thought the blower was just a blower, but it may correlate with burn time - I'm sure others know for sure...
Yes, higher blower setting seems to burn faster, and give those results you described. I usually try and run the blower to match the thermostat setting, ie. low thermostat, lowest blower setting, max thermostat, max blower setting. I also don’t go from max thermostat to lowest setting. I turn it down in smaller increments until I get to my desired setting.
Every BK stove has an operating range on the thermostat dial. Obviously high is high, but depending on the setup, the lowest setting you can run will vary from stove to stove. It sounds to me like you’re running the stove too low.
I have a flue temp probe, and try to keep the flue temp above 250 on the lowest setting.
For me the lowest I can go is about 1/4 of the way up from the lowest setting. Except for the charring phase, I usually run the stove from 1/4 to 1/2 way up
I have a flue temp probe, and try to keep the flue temp above 250 on the lowest setting.
For me the lowest I can go is about 1/4 of the way up from the lowest setting. Except for the charring phase, I usually run the stove from 1/4 to 1/2 way up
Thanks. Yes, I've been reading about dialing it in. Turning the blower down made a big difference and I'll need to play with the thermostat. My unit is in a large living room but the house is not an open design - large open doorways between rooms. Because of this, even at low temps not hot but far to warm. I'll like have to turn it up some to balance out. I was looking into two way air flow fans mounted in the wall to help distribute the heat to other regions of the house. Give I will be using this nearly every day for a few months of the year, I want to get the max life and efficiency out of it...I somewhat regret not getting a standard stove, but I'd also be using far more wood.
Not sure why you'd regret not getting a standard stove. The BK can do everything a non-cat can, and a whole bunch more. Especially low-n-slow burns.
But yes, due to the thermostat-control of the BK the blower affects heat output and burn time. The blower transfers heat into the room, thereby cooling the stove slightly and the thermostat opens to keep the set temperature.
But yes, due to the thermostat-control of the BK the blower affects heat output and burn time. The blower transfers heat into the room, thereby cooling the stove slightly and the thermostat opens to keep the set temperature.
Im sorry they simply don't have the high end output of many other stoves on the market
I don't disagree, the EPA certification sheet says it too, but I just don't think that this is very important. The huge majority of the time, stoves are run as low as possible to keep a home warm.
If you screw up and need to play catch up with a cold house then yeah, more output could be useful or you could just be patient.
Case in point, I've been burning consistently for more than 40hrs and staying nicely in the active cat zone. I may dip below here and there but I turn it up or add a log or two. All in all, two loads in 24hrs should keep me going. Any creosote on the glass goes away on the next cycle when things heat up a bit. I was likely burning too low and with adequate, but lower quality wood. I still an't get the needle far into the high temp cat zone. I suppose there is no need to, but I'm curious why. Maybe al very full load of very dry wood in a particular arrangement would produce this result, but it's more than hot...almost too hot for the room at times.
Yes most stoves are run on the low side. And most stoves on the low side put out the heat of blazekings on medium high.
My house would probably be in the 50s max if I were running 24 hours the past week and a half. It's been in the teens here with wind chill in sub zero temps.
The epa table isn't very accurate because they don't do full loads. But I can tell you a similarly sized tube stove run as low as possible would go through the same wood at a similar efficiency in 8 to 10 hours . And run a lower stack temp that the princess running at 8 to 10 hours.
Re-read your operators manual. The reason you’re likely not getting favorable cat reaction is because once the cat gauge is active you should be closing the bypass.
Then burn the prescribed 20-30 minutes on high.
After your charring session is complete you set the stat for the long haul.
Unless I misinterpret your post I think a correction in your start up method will fix your issue.
Good luck
my BK Ashford definitely doesn't put out as much heat as my old VC Encore did even when i have it WOT on the knob. I am going to get a fan kit for it hopefully that will help but the Ashford really doesn't get very hot compared to stoves i have had in the past its a little disappointing.
Sounds like OP determined the problem.
Without a doubt the blower is pulling too much heat from the stove to keep the cat active on the lowest setting.
I have a princess and have had no trouble going over 24 hours in the active zone all winter. The stove has been burning nonstop except to empty ashes 3 times now. Sometimes after around 14 or 16 hours I may drop out of active and need to move logs on the edge into the middle of the firebox. Running on the lowest setting, burning ash, I have probably burned 3/4 of a cord.
Without a doubt the blower is pulling too much heat from the stove to keep the cat active on the lowest setting.
I have a princess and have had no trouble going over 24 hours in the active zone all winter. The stove has been burning nonstop except to empty ashes 3 times now. Sometimes after around 14 or 16 hours I may drop out of active and need to move logs on the edge into the middle of the firebox. Running on the lowest setting, burning ash, I have probably burned 3/4 of a cord.
Actually, that shouldn't be the case.
The thermostat setting roughly determines a stove temperature.
And as it's a thermostat, it will open up and close to keep that temperature. So when withdrawing heat from the stove by starting the blower, the thermostat will just open up to keep the temperature setpoint.
If the cat is stalling, then the temperature (i.e., the thermostat) is likely set too low.
(It should be noted that cat temperature and stove temperature do not correlate. Cat temperature is mostly determined by the amount of combustible gases the load emits. Which is higher at higher temperatures/burn rates, but also drops as the wood is consumed and mostly embers remain).
Here’s some real world time and temperature numbers for the Ashford just posted here; (10 year old Ashford 30 for newer model comparison)
What say you @BKVP ? There is some high exposure over there with crazy growth the last couple months.
What say you @BKVP ? There is some high exposure over there with crazy growth the last couple months.
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