how much firewood can I safely stack on my porch?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

twd000

Feeling the Heat
Aug 28, 2015
448
Southern New Hampshire
Is there a calculator or estimating tool for the load capacity on a screened porch? Like how many pounds per square foot based on building codes?

I have put a full cord up there in past winters and I'm thinking of loading it up even more this year. It's really nice to have dry wood under roof right outside the sliding glass door.

Construction is 24' x 12' overall, gently sloping down to the backyard. The 12' span from the foundation wall to the corner posts is the longest span. The 24' span parallel to the house foundation wall is broken into three 8' spans. Posts are 3.5" diameter steel. Haven't dug down to the what kind of footing was used.

Joists are 2x8's on 16" centers. Deck boards are are 1/2" pine.

[Hearth.com] how much firewood can I safely stack on my porch?
[Hearth.com] how much firewood can I safely stack on my porch?
[Hearth.com] how much firewood can I safely stack on my porch?
 
The weak point on your deck, like most, is that only the rim joist or outer joist is actually supported from below by the solid post. Your middle picture clearly shows that at that point. Thus the cross joists are only held up by the nails or screws that go into that second rim joist. I had a deck like that and put a hot tub on it and the whole deck started sagging because of the nails starting to bend.

What you can do is sister a 2X4 up against the existing post, hopefully supported underneath by the existing footings. That way it can support the second rim joist. Then I would sister a second 2X4 up against that with room to to put a 2X6 vertically on top all along the edge of the deck so that it catches and supports the ends of all the cross joists. Now you have solid support for the edge of the deck. The span I would not worry about.
 
That deck was not designed for a load it was just designed as a basic deck... In your pics i can see daylight between your deck supports and the rim joists as well as no corner blocking to keep the leg strait..Where i am that would never pass code as its to be attached to the main rim joist and then lag bolted through both joists and that railing is far from code.. I also agree with statement above... If it were me i would add a 2x10 the full width of the deck so it picks up all the joists and then pour new footings for the posts or use a 18x18 pad and deck block to hold the posts. I would also add rim joists to all the joists on the foundation.

when im building a deck no matter if its just a basic or one designed for a load i over build it and grantee if someone ever tore it down they would be swearing at me for a week..LOL
 
No joist hangers were used AND they only used 2x8's.
I wouldn't do it.
 
A cord could be 3000 pounds. I would at the very least spread it out. Weakest point is probably where it attached to the house. Thats been my experience.
 
Most deck designs would account for around 40lb/sqft live load. That would account for some furniture, and a dozen medium sized fat guys in on a group picture yet keeping floor bounce to a minimum (live load). This one doesn't appear to be up to current code (joist hangers etc). If it was mine, I would reinforce, at least in the area of the long spans, and keep any wood stacked in moderation. 40lb/sft would mean a cord (3500lb) spread out and stacked at something like 10ft x 10ft x 1-1/2ft high. High load spans, for something like a work shop, shed or garage, or wood storage, can go to 120lb/sft and more, but the joists and supports are designed for such, and not like this for a living area. The weakest part of a span is in the center.


One thing I thought of:
Design tables are such that they try to account for deflection. Back home in the old farm house, they used 2x4s, to span 16ft/2 or 8ft. China cabinets rattled, the floor bounced, the addition is over 100yrs old, so its all tolerated. But by todays standards it wouldn't be right. You may have gotten away with stacking wood on your current floor, but whose to say, maybe it sagged and was tolerated. No one was walking on it, so no rattling china. To stack more, how brave are you. There was another 175yr old house I was in, 16ft spans sagged 5inches in the center. I always knew where the kids toys were.
 
Last edited: