How to attach pellet pipe, so that you can pull the stove out for maintenance?

[Edrrt]

I'm using duravent pellet Pro. It says to silicone the appliance adapter and if I do and then assemble the system it doesn't seem like there will be any way to disconnect it from the chimney system without breaking the silicone seal.

It's a corner installation and I would like to be able to pull the stove forward for maintenance.

Is there any way to get them apart while everything is together if that joint is silicone? Can you get away with just putting a little silver tape around it and a pipe clamp?

Should I just order the quick release adapter from duravent?

 

[Washed-Up]

You silicone the appliance adapter onto the tailpipe then twist on the T and tape it with silicone tape or foil tape, some here don’t like the T inside because you need to be extra careful when emptying it or it creates a big dust mess.

 

[Edrrt]

You silicone the appliance adapter onto the tailpipe then twist on the T and tape it with silicone tape or foil tape, some here don’t like the T inside because you need to be extra careful when emptying it or it creates a big dust mess.

But then when the stove pipe is all connected together, how do you twist it to get it off? Because it won't rotate anymore once it's attached to the pipe going up to the ceiling.

 

[Washed-Up]

You should be able to listen the collar at the ceiling and turn it...unless you have a crazy length I suppose, it’s not very heavy piping, even 4” isn’t that heavy.
Any photos of your setup may help

 

[Jeremy6500]

If you clean it using a leaf blower to suck everything out, then I wouldn’t think you would need to disassemble it. Perhaps only disassemble the vent once a year for deep cleaning at the end of the season.

 

[rickwai]

What stove are you hooking up?

 

[Edrrt]

It is a Quadra-Fire Mount Vernon. If I use the older style pellet vent and I have to seal all the joints together then a quick release at the stove seems like the only option. However I did purchase new pelletvent Pro which has the gasket sealant doesn't need to be used.

However after it is all assembled I don't know based on how the twist lock connections work if when they're all assembled you can twist one section and disconnect without rotating the top or bottom of your pipe Network because that will be fixed in place.

If you can and that would be a way to break the connection without a quick release?

 

[cpetku]

I'm sure I'll get flamed for this from a manufacturers certification view... In my case I have a Harman with the PP Harman adapter which is siliconed and screwed to the manifold.

One of my next pieces of pipe is attached in the normal self locking fashion but only engaged (rotated) half way The next joint inside the house is attached in the same manner. This allows the center piece of pipe to rotate either direction half the intended locking distance. The internal gaskets don't rely on the external lock being 100% rotated to seal, but the HO must be sure the pipe is properly seated. The external surface of the pipe is sealed with silicon tape which prevents rotation and any potential for a leak of the outer jacket. When I need to service the stove its simply remove two pieces of tape and twist the pipe to unlock from the stove. The easy way to accomplish this is simply lock one end of the pipe fully and position the other end so it is unlocked during your install. Once everything is in place do the half lock and tape it good. A potential risk is the pipe siezes over time and can't be removed. A large strap wrench to avoid nicking the paint may be necessary if this option is chosen.

Another option (in my case) is simply install the pipe per manufacturers instructions then remove the three bolts securing the flange when servicing the stove. This has a small cost of replacing the gasket each time, but they're cheap.

If there's enough push back on this post I'll consider moving back to the second option stated above and state not to do the first. I originally suggested this last year during my install and don't recall any negative feedback. Of course, I don't expect any licensed installer to support potential mis-application of safety item such as a vent.

 

[tlc1976]

I can get a brush through all of mine. Never had to take it apart. And never used a leaf blower.

My stove does sit close to the corner to save space. It’s a challenge but I’d rather work on it as is than take the pipe apart.

 

[Edrrt]

Gosh so it can't twist apart it sounds like after it's assembled. It sounds like you do have to have one of the ends be free or do the half rotation method.

I bought the newest tea that does have a swivel in it and the dealer said that you would be able to twist it on that and take it off but he is wrong. As soon as it's buried in the adapter there's going to be no way to turn the inner portion.

So can I ask a dumb question, why doesn't everybody just use these?



I need to be able to pull the stove forward out of the corner to take off the blower, take off the side panels and get into things.

I can't be the only person that is thinking they should be installing the stove with the ability to disconnect it and Pull It Forward.

I guess I'm probably just going to return the adapter that I have and maybe order one of these unless for some reason they don't work?

 

[Edrrt]

Oh wait I just had an idea. If I can incorporate a slip fitting into one of the connections then I would be able to turn it to unlock while connected.

 

[Washed-Up]

Or use a silicone tape underneath the clamping area to the stove.

 

[Edrrt]

Has anyone used one of those quick release adapter is? It says they have a gasket in it so I was thinking it wouldn't need silicone tape.

I was only able to find one post where somebody mentioned it and they said that they clamp stripped out and didn't work very well.

 

[Washed-Up]

I was referring to the appliance adapter to your stove tailpipe, instead of silicone caulking underneath where it clamps on, if you were to use silicone tape then you’d be able to remove it and then retake it when you reinstall it

 

[Ssyko]

Edrrt don't over think it. use a clamp on or slip on appliance adapter and run with it. Its not hard to take off an adapter to clean the stove or slide it out for maint. use the silicone tape and it removes easy

 

[Edrrt]

So just use the regular stove adapter and then wrap silicone tape around the outside of it and a pipe clamp over it?

 

[Ssyko]

Sure that what mine is like

 

[tbear853]

Since 1992 ... I've only just used a clamp on adapter with two SS screw clamps at the stove because I never used just two nails in a stud where four will fit without splitting the wood. I trim the outer galvanised pipe back another half inch to expose a little more inner SS pipe. I snipped a short slit in the inner too... to allow the furthest end clamp to grip or squease the adapter tighter to the thick wall steel tail pipe. The part being squeased is really just the longer inner SS pellet vent liner. No glues, no tape, not even red or orange hi temp RTV on mine at that joint. In reality, I just trimmed a short part of the outer back, maybe an inch, to allow for the screw mechanism but it wouldn't hurt to go all the way around I think. The outer at this point doesn't seal to anything, just a heat shield. I recently made one from a left over pipe that is 6.5" long outer, 8" long inner. Pop rivets are short, just hold a spacer in place, none pierce the inner. I'll have plenty "clamp room" Last is the set up in use now.