How to install an uncertified stove?

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Treeapple

New Member
Hi.

I'm installing an uncertified stove (not ancient, somewhat air tight) in our unfinished basement--this will hopefully be just for this winter, more a backup in case we lose power here in rural Quebec. The floor and wall are concrete. It's 8ft to the ceiling.

Going by the code for uncertified stoves, I thought I'd plonk it in the middle of the floor 4ft from anything.

This would mean about 2ft of vertical stove pipe out of the stove, a 90 turn and then about 4ft of horizontal stove pipe, to a 6" to 8" reducer that attaches to the 8" chimney.

I was planning on using single wall stove pipe on the vertical and then double wall on the horizontal because there are some wood joists and pvc pipes in the ceiling that would be within 18". And I was going to have the horizontal rise 1/4"-1/2" per ft on the horizontal.

The pressure tank in the photo will be moved to the left and the stove kept 4' from any Pex piping.

I am wondering if using a heat shield around the plumbing, so the stove could be closer to the chimney, would make a difference for better or worse.

First time installing a stove. I'll have it inspected by a WETT tech for insurance purposes.

Thanks.

IMG_3625.JPG IMG_3626.JPG
 
Hi.

I'm installing an uncertified stove (not ancient, somewhat air tight) in our unfinished basement--this will hopefully be just for this winter, more a backup in case we lose power here in rural Quebec. The floor and wall are concrete. It's 8ft to the ceiling.

Going by the code for uncertified stoves, I thought I'd plonk it in the middle of the floor 4ft from anything.

This would mean about 2ft of vertical stove pipe out of the stove, a 90 turn and then about 4ft of horizontal stove pipe, to a 6" to 8" reducer that attaches to the 8" chimney.

I was planning on using single wall stove pipe on the vertical and then double wall on the horizontal because there are some wood joists and pvc pipes in the ceiling that would be within 18". And I was going to have the horizontal rise 1/4"-1/2" per ft on the horizontal.

The pressure tank in the photo will be moved to the left and the stove kept 4' from any Pex piping.

I am wondering if using a heat shield around the plumbing, so the stove could be closer to the chimney, would make a difference for better or worse.

First time installing a stove. I'll have it inspected by a WETT tech for insurance purposes.

Thanks.

View attachment 300757 View attachment 300758
That looks like a pretty modern stove that should be listed. Although it does look like an insert
 
It looks like an insert to me. There is an offset box sitting on top. That won't pass inspection unless there is a factory leg or pedestal kit for it.

What is the stove make and model?
 
So my ignorance precedes me.

First, I found the label on it.

And it is a Regency, perhaps a Classic--can't make out the model number.

So no go with an insert passing inspection, it seems.

Now, if I skipped inspection and installed it anyways (and did not tell my insurance), is there anything inherently dangerous about using an insert as a standing wood stove if the clearances to combustibles are followed?

As I said, this is for emergency backup when we lose power. We will upgrade next year.

Thanks for the education.

IMG_3631.jpg
 
So my ignorance precedes me.

First, I found the label on it.

And it is a Regency, perhaps a Classic--can't make out the model number.

So no go with an insert passing inspection, it seems.

Now, if I skipped inspection and installed it anyways (and did not tell my insurance), is there anything inherently dangerous about using an insert as a standing wood stove if the clearances to combustibles are followed?

As I said, this is for emergency backup when we lose power. We will upgrade next year.

Thanks for the education.

View attachment 300788
If installed as a freestanding stove an insert would de considered an unlisted stove because it isn't installed as specified.