cmonSTART said:
my own personal experience is that when you get down to the smaller bars, 20" or less, economically it begins to make less sense to replace the tip. By the time I see most of these they could use a new bar too.
That's our experience also. We go through at least one new bar every year on 4 saws, in mixed harvesting, TSI, blowdowns. It is tough on the bar dealing with dirty wood, wire and rounds embedded in trees, and the foolish cut errors made over time that strain or damage bars. That's why the smaller bars--14" to 18" ---work best for us: simpler to maintain and sharpen chain. I use roller tips, not ever greased, check the rails and grooves at every sharpening, and rotate the bars.
Years ago the Game of Logging (GOL) program taught us skills we never knew or used: wedge use, escape routes, limbing, planning the cut, felling exactly where you want the beast to fall, cutting faster and more efficiently, and of course, safety. Yes, I know to some it's a dirty, unmacho concept.
The first GOL class morning with mostly well-hardened pros with over a hundred years of logging and arborist time among them, and all of us "knowing" all there is about cutting, the instructor took two of our well-used chaps as an example. We all told him that "we've had these for years without problems". Originally hunter orange, the chaps were black from sap and saw oil. Andy took two of the chaps threw them over a log, and cut straight through both of the chaps. Some protection ! All bought new safety chaps for the next session.
It's only the very inexperienced that are sensitive to suggestions about techniques or safety.
When you can't learn anything, it's time to not come down for breakfast. :zip: