Hello
Just went over my friends house again with the West Point. The last time I was there, I put in a brand new Selco L250M air stream mount 250 Deg F Hi Limit switch. The stove was down again so I checked everything out. The # 3 light on the upgraded control panel was blinking and the Hi Limit switch was tripped. Everything else works really good. She said she cranked the stove up to the 4 or 5 heat level setting and that is when the Hi Limit tripped.
Should the 70K BTU West Point have the same 250 Deg Hi Limit switch as the 50K BTU Saranac stove? I know the that new snap disc is not bad or flakey and it did reset ok.
The 3 LED was blinking because she tried to start it up with the Hi Limit tripped! Makes sense!
I just found this info on the upgraded control board troubleshooting status! Great Info!
1st - Try not to let the stove completely run out of wood pellets because it empties out the auger flight chute.There are 3 cycles or operation. Start-Cycle , Run Cycle , and Shutdown Cycle.The Start-CycleThe ignitor heats up as the auger starts turning to drop pellets into the burn pot.If there is no fire within a certain time, then the stove will shut down.If the stove runs out of pellets and the auger flight chute is empty, then it takes longer to fill the auger chute with pellets before they start dropping into the burn pot.The stove may not start if the auger chute is not full of pellets. So if the pellets run out you can press the auger button to continually feed the pellets so the fire will start before the time out and shutdown. You can also put a handful of pellets into the burn pot.The blinking heat lights.If the stove does not start and one of the heat level lights is flashing, then you must bend down and look at the control panel straight on to see which light is blinking.I believe the information below is the troubleshoot information for your control board.
My Stove isn’t burning and the number 2 LED light is blinking. This diagnostic light
indicates the vacuum switch no longer senses negative pressure in the firebox area of the
Stove. What caused the Stove to go out?
Solution:
If the fire is out and the stove is off simply re-light the Stove, however if
the fire is still burning in the burn pot make sure all doors are securely latched and hold
down the On/Off button (approximately 5 seconds) until Stove starts up again. This will
re-start the Stove in the start-up program.
a. The door of the unit was left open longer than 60 seconds. (See solution)
b. The ash pan door was left open for longer than 60 seconds. (See solution)
c. The combustion fan is not running. (Defective fan or control board)
d. The vacuum switch is defective.
e. The vacuum hose is disconnected
f. The vent system is plugged with fly-ash.
My Stove isn’t burning and the number 3 LED light is blinking. This diagnostic light
indicates that the Proof of Fire Switch no longer senses a fire in the Stove. First check to
see if there are pellets in the hopper. If there are pellets in the hopper, we need to figure
why the Stove went out.
My Stove isn’t burning and the #4 LED light is blinking. This means the high Limit has shut
the Stove down. The Convection Blower could be defective or may need cleaning. The high limit
switch may be also defective. It is best to call your dealer for support when trying to troubleshoot
the High Limit Switch. Do not use your Stove if the High Limit switch frequently trips.
Just went over my friends house again with the West Point. The last time I was there, I put in a brand new Selco L250M air stream mount 250 Deg F Hi Limit switch. The stove was down again so I checked everything out. The # 3 light on the upgraded control panel was blinking and the Hi Limit switch was tripped. Everything else works really good. She said she cranked the stove up to the 4 or 5 heat level setting and that is when the Hi Limit tripped.
Should the 70K BTU West Point have the same 250 Deg Hi Limit switch as the 50K BTU Saranac stove? I know the that new snap disc is not bad or flakey and it did reset ok.
The 3 LED was blinking because she tried to start it up with the Hi Limit tripped! Makes sense!
I just found this info on the upgraded control board troubleshooting status! Great Info!
Hudson River Upgraded Control Panel Troubleshooting
1st - Try not to let the stove completely run out of wood pellets because it empties out the auger flight chute.There are 3 cycles or operation. Start-Cycle , Run Cycle , and Shutdown Cycle.The Start-CycleThe ignitor heats up as the auger starts turning to drop pellets into the burn pot.If there is no fire within a certain time, then the stove will shut down.If the stove runs out of pellets and the auger flight chute is empty, then it takes longer to fill the auger chute with pellets before they start dropping into the burn pot.The stove may not start if the auger chute is not full of pellets. So if the pellets run out you can press the auger button to continually feed the pellets so the fire will start before the time out and shutdown. You can also put a handful of pellets into the burn pot.The blinking heat lights.If the stove does not start and one of the heat level lights is flashing, then you must bend down and look at the control panel straight on to see which light is blinking.I believe the information below is the troubleshoot information for your control board.
My Stove isn’t burning and the number 2 LED light is blinking. This diagnostic light
indicates the vacuum switch no longer senses negative pressure in the firebox area of the
Stove. What caused the Stove to go out?
Solution:
If the fire is out and the stove is off simply re-light the Stove, however if
the fire is still burning in the burn pot make sure all doors are securely latched and hold
down the On/Off button (approximately 5 seconds) until Stove starts up again. This will
re-start the Stove in the start-up program.
a. The door of the unit was left open longer than 60 seconds. (See solution)
b. The ash pan door was left open for longer than 60 seconds. (See solution)
c. The combustion fan is not running. (Defective fan or control board)
d. The vacuum switch is defective.
e. The vacuum hose is disconnected
f. The vent system is plugged with fly-ash.
My Stove isn’t burning and the number 3 LED light is blinking. This diagnostic light
indicates that the Proof of Fire Switch no longer senses a fire in the Stove. First check to
see if there are pellets in the hopper. If there are pellets in the hopper, we need to figure
why the Stove went out.
My Stove isn’t burning and the #4 LED light is blinking. This means the high Limit has shut
the Stove down. The Convection Blower could be defective or may need cleaning. The high limit
switch may be also defective. It is best to call your dealer for support when trying to troubleshoot
the High Limit Switch. Do not use your Stove if the High Limit switch frequently trips.
