Great idea, but sounds like too much work I like some of the other ideas betterThe best thing you can do to prevent low humidity is to air seal your basement. If the cool dry air can't get in, then the moist warm air can't get out. Caulk your basement windows and around pipes and ducts that penetrate the building envelope.
The best thing you can do to prevent low humidity is to air seal your basement. If the cool dry air can't get in, then the moist warm air can't get out. Caulk your basement windows and around pipes and ducts that penetrate the building envelope.
What can I do with my ridge and soffett vents that run the length of the house?Be careful doing this. The stack effect draws air into your basement and it exits through the upper portions of your house (in the winter). If you don't balance air sealing you can create back drafting from any combustion appliances in the lower areas in the house..... Water heaters, furnaces, wood stoves, etc. That can introduce CO.
Warm air rising is always going to happen in winter. If it escapes it creates negative pressure. That negative pressure is going to suck air from somewhere. If you only air seal down low, it will suck air from known chimneys.... Like those for combustion appliances.
Generally you want to start air sealing in the attic. Reduce the air going out of your building envelope, you reduce the air getting sucked into it.
What can I do with my ridge and soffett vents that run the length of the house?
Without buying a humidifier what can I do to put moisture in the air? I have an insert so I cannot put a container on to of stove.
Be careful doing this. The stack effect draws air into your basement and it exits through the upper portions of your house (in the winter). If you don't balance air sealing you can create back drafting from any combustion appliances in the lower areas in the house..... Water heaters, furnaces, wood stoves, etc. That can introduce CO.
Warm air rising is always going to happen in winter. If it escapes it creates negative pressure. That negative pressure is going to suck air from somewhere. If you only air seal down low, it will suck air from known chimneys.... Like those for combustion appliances.
Generally you want to start air sealing in the attic. Reduce the air going out of your building envelope, you reduce the air getting sucked into it.
Unless you use the attic often, I'd caulk the attic access shut, or at least weather strip it like you would an exterior door.My pull down attic door needs serious attention, have a blanket covering the top, what a PIA
Warm air actually creates a relative negative pressure in the lower levels whether the air leaves the envelope or not. It is relative to outside pressures.
This is the first I've heard of a concern with air sealing causing backdrafting. If basement air sealing is the tipping point for a flue to cease drafting, something else needs to be done.
For those who wish, give this a read. http://woodheat.org/locating-chimney.html
I did the basement first, but have no other combustion appliances in the house.
Most here likely know but I'll say it anyway: to vent a dryer in doors it must be an electric dryer. Don't want the CO from a gas dryer staying in the house.THey used to make a lint box type of thing-a-majig that you could hook your dryer vent to inside the home. I remember it claimed to use dryer heat to heat the home.
Put a wet sponge on a dish near your fireplace. Re-wet as necessary.
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