Husky 22 Ton Won't Start Cold

[Spinny]

I bought a husky 22 ton splitter during warm weather last spring. This is the first that I've tried to start it in cold weather. I went out today just to see if it would start as I want to use it back in the woods. Pulled a few times and got absolutely nothing.

My grandpa has one, and I have read other reviews about them not starting in cold weather. Anyone have any insight? I don't think I ran it out of fuel the last time I used it 4 months ago, maybe a carb issue??? I know that with my grandpas he actually had to run a space heater on the engine to get it to start in cold weather, eventually they sent him a new engine.

 

[missedbass]

you don't have 4 month old gas in the tank, do you?

 

[Halligan]

Mine has been tricky to start in the cold as well. They have no choke feature on the carb so it can be an issue. First put fresh gas in it. Next look at the black cover that goes over the air filter. On the bottom of that cover is the hole's that the air enters in to the filter housing. Place some electrical tape over the holes leaving a little space for air to enter. Now you've basically choked the carb so pull start it and remove tape.

 

[Kool_hand_Looke]

I've requisitioned my LOVELY father in laws Husky that "wouldnt" start that his kids beat the snot out of. It's a 32 ton splitter. The gas was turpentine. Mice had built a nest in the flywheel. The carb was filthy. The pull string broke. And the plug was half threaded. I went through and drained everything, bought new shroud ans string, cleaned spark plug and put Seafoam in oil and gas. Got it to cough a few times then moved into the attatched garage for a week. It fired right up. I JUST ordered a magnetic block heater too. F.I.L swore it wouldn't start in cold. I got it after a little TLC. Which he doesn't need to know.

 

[muncybob]

I'll try to remember that air filter/tape trick next time!

 

[Kool_hand_Looke]

Check out this nifty heater. You can plop it even on the hydraulic tank.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BOABS6

 

[Fifelaker]

It was 14° here today. Mine took a bit of coaxing but she fired. I changed the oil to 5-20W full synthetic re gapped the plug to 0.025" Pumped the bulb 5 times pulled the cord and it coughed, pumped 3 times and it caught and I kept pumping it until it ran on its own. It took about 30 pumps before it would run on its own.

 

[dmmoss51]

I+1 on the new gas. I think you should consider treating this like you might a generator or snow blower or even lawn mower. When it's going to be a while before you are going to use it, clean it up good, and use some fuel stabilizer.

 

[Spinny]

When I looked down in the tank today it was dry but I don't think I ran it empty which means what was left may have evaporated which means I probably have the equivalent of shellac in the carburetor. I have never cleaned a carb and don't know what it entails...

Looks like changing the oil to a thinner viscosity will help. I will try 5-20w. I don't know anything about re-gapping a plug so I'll have to look into that. It ran great in warm weather. Today it didn't even act like it remotely wanted to start.

It says hydrolic oil can be substituted with automatic transmission oil when the temp is low. I want to take this out to the woods and leave it there. Would you guys recommend that?

ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATIONS
NOTE: Engine oil is provided with your log splitter. Follow instructions in engine owner’s manual for filling.
For temperatures above 40 degrees F use an SAE 30W oil. Using multigrade oils may increase oil consumption. Using SAE 40W oil below 40
degrees F will result in hard starting and possible engine bore damage. For temperatures below 40 degrees F use an SAE 10W-30 or SAE 5W-30 oil.
Oil capacity is approximately 5/8 quart (20 ounces; 0.6 liter).

The hydraulic reservoir must be filled with the oil provided. AW 46 hydraulic oil is recommended when oil is needed. Automatic
transmisssion fluid can be substituted and should be used instead of hydraulic oil when temperatures are below 32 degrees F. Use only
clean oil and take care to prevent dirt from entering the hydraulic reservoir. Fill the hydraulic tank with approximately 3.5 to 4 gallons of
hydraulic oil.

 

[dmmoss51]

If you're going to leave it in the woods I would come up with some sort of cover system to keep it dry to help keep it from rusting out from underneath you.

 

[Kool_hand_Looke]

Absolutely would not recommend leaving it in the woods.

On the bottom of the carb there's a bowl with a nut or bolt holding it up to carb. There's a float which does exactly that: it floats. When fuel comes in the carb it makes the float float and that controls the fuel coming into the carb to prevent it from loading up and choking on gas. Some guys will swear the float CANNOT go bad. Take that into consideration. The float can absorb fuel over time and get logged. It'll stop float and will load your bowl. Take that nut or bolt out and let the carb drain out. Remove the fuel line at the bottom of the fuel tank and let it drain out. Put it all back. Take air filter off and spray carb cleaner LIGHTLY into the carb. Pull away. Put filter back on.

Tapping a plug isn't an issue. Take the plug out. Find what the manufacturer suggests. Get a gap in the electrode and pry it open lightly IF it needs it.

 

[aussiedog3]

I have the same splitter. When it is cold I need to prime it about 4 times more than normal.
Try that. Good luck. They are great splitters.

 

[Spinny]

If you're going to leave it in the woods I would come up with some sort of cover system to keep it dry to help keep it from rusting out from underneath you.

It wouldn't be in the woods long. Maybe a week at a time and yes, I would tarp the whole thing. To me its better to tarp it and leave it for a while the make it go through the rattle, shaking, and jarring that it takes to get down the road and into the woods.

 

[Spinny]

Absolutely would not recommend leaving it in the woods.

On the bottom of the carb there's a bowl with a nut or bolt holding it up to carb. There's a float which does exactly that: it floats. When fuel comes in the carb it makes the float float and that controls the fuel coming into the carb to prevent it from loading up and choking on gas. Some guys will swear the float CANNOT go bad. Take that into consideration. The float can absorb fuel over time and get logged. It'll stop float and will load your bowl. Take that nut or bolt out and let the carb drain out. Remove the fuel line at the bottom of the fuel tank and let it drain out. Put it all back. Take air filter off and spray carb cleaner LIGHTLY into the carb. Pull away. Put filter back on.

Tapping a plug isn't an issue. Take the plug out. Find what the manufacturer suggests. Get a gap in the electrode and pry it open lightly IF it needs it.

I watched a couple youtube vids on cleaning carbs. I'm guessing its gummed up. Looks simple enough to clean. I'll get it out of the cold barn into the warmer garage and see if I can get it going.

 

[Fifelaker]

Those little tanks dry up pretty fast. I have left 1/4 of a tank in it and the next weekend that thing is bone dry.

 

[Kool_hand_Looke]

I only said don't leave it out...because I wouldn't do that. But I'm particular about a few things. Especially things that I want to work right that isn't cheap to buy or repair.

Worst case, take it to a small engine guy.

 

[mudr]

I split a bit yesterday myself, chilly, but not too cold. Probably low 20s. This was the first I've started the splitter this cold, and it didn't want to go. Got it started twice, ran for 3 seconds, then died. I realized it needed to be richened up a bit but it does not have a choke. So I got it started the third time, and then I would pump the priming bulb once every two or three seconds. Rather than restrict the air intake like a choke, I added more gas to the mix to achieve the same thing. It ran by itself after 15 seconds of doing that. I think I will try the tape thing next time.

 

[Spinny]

*UPDATE*

I pulled it into my garage this morning thinking I would work on it after work. Picked up some supplies at Napa after work and was ready to do whatever needed done. Figured I try it again first just to see how the engine was responding. Primed about 8 pumps and low and behold it started right up the first pull. Garage was about 40 degrees. My guess is that having gas sitting in the tank again was enough to free up whatever was restricting the fuel.

I shut it off and installed a fuel shut off valve on the fuel line so I don't have to run the tank dry but I can keep the carb from gumming up so much. I took off the air filter and sprayed some carb cleaner in there while I was installing the shut off valve. Put some Seafoam in the tank. Fired it up and took it outside so it could burn through a full tank with the Seafoam. Hopefully that will take care of any varnish that was built up.

I'm going to install the SpeeCo log catcher tonight. I'll take it back outside and let it get good and cold tomorrow and she how she starts after that. Thanks for all the input from everyone.

 

[jebatty]

FWIW, both my log splitter and my snowblower will not start in cold weather, although once started they run fine. But both are easy to start by pouring a little gas directly into the carb. A bit of a hassle, but much better than pulling my arm from the shoulder socket trying to start with the rope pull.

 

[Spinny]

FWIW, both my log splitter and my snowblower will not start in cold weather, although once started they run fine. But both are easy to start by pouring a little gas directly into the carb. A bit of a hassle, but much better than pulling my arm from the shoulder socket trying to start with the rope pull.

That is good to know. I got a can of starter fluid (ether) should that be the case. Like you said, works to get it started but a bit of a hassle.

 

[dmmoss51]

having a snow thrower not start when it's cold sounds like a real problem because why else would you start it??

 

[mudr]

having a snow thrower not start when it's cold sounds like a real problem because why else would you start it??

Why is his statement so confusing. Personally, I'm only a fair weather driveway-clearer. If it's below 50 out, I don't clean my driveway.

 

[Kool_hand_Looke]

That is good to know. I got a can of starter fluid (ether) should that be the case. Like you said, works to get it started but a bit of a hassle.

While starter fluid is effective, it equally has the ability to ruin your engine. Use sparingly. You should chck out Kats magnetic block heater. You can place it on your engine (non austenetic) surface...and even your hydraulic fluid tank.

 

[Spinny]

While starter fluid is effective, it equally has the ability to ruin your engine. Use sparingly. You should chck out Kats magnetic block heater. You can place it on your engine (non austenetic) surface...and even your hydraulic fluid tank.

Thanks for the warning. I definitely don't want to do anything that will jeopardize the health of my engine. Block heater isn't a good option. I want to be able to know that I can start the thing out in the freezing cold woods.

 

[Pdesjr]

Carb clean works great as a starting fluid and wont do the harm the starting fluid can. I'm a mechanic and we use it all the time to check fuel issues and hard starting