I abused my saw....HELP!

[Beer Belly]

I was using my Stihl ms290 (Farmboss in sig.) to cut a stump as close to ground level as I could....this is my first attempt...ever. Anyhow, the center of the stump (Ash) had a center that was rotted and filled with dirt (found out the hard way)....dulled the chain fast.....I then got peed off and buried the bar and chain into a big root that I was planning to finish digging out and cut. Needless to say, my bar and chain are an absolute dirty mess. Now that I've calmed down, and gave myself a royal arse kickin'....whats the best way to clean her up ???...power wash ???....the head is fine

 

[nate379]

A rag and some solvent or degreaser. A thin screwdriver or narrow putty knife will work to clean out the bar groove.

 

[BrotherBart]

Use some toothpick to clean out the groove in the bar too.

 

[Pallet Pete]

Sometimes I use a toothbrush with degreaser but it really isn't needed. The next time it goes through a tree it will clean itself up just sharpen it hit it with degreaser and a rag as Nate said and your off for the races. In fact I usually just hit the saw and bar with an air wand to clean it up then sharpen the chains up and that's it.

Pete

 

[lukem]

No big deal. Tools get dirty. Leaving tools dirty is where people are stupid. Remove bar and chain...scrape out bar groove real good with small screwdriver or a nail pounded flat and wipe everything down real good. For the chain a quick scrub with a stiff bristle brush and HOT soapy water (hot water dries fast and won't cause rust) and a good squirt of WD40. Sharpen it up and you're good as new.

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Take it back to the store and get a new one?

 

[Trooper]

What type/brand of degreaser do you all use?

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

I use this to run in the bar groove!
(broken image removed)

 

[Pallet Pete]

Zep from home depot its cheap and cleans anything up in a hurry and its natural citrus based so no crazy chemicals all over you and your equipment.

Pete

 

[smokinj]

By the sounds of it I might throw the power washer to it! J/K any degreaser will work fine.

 

[thewoodlands]

I was using my Stihl ms290 (Farmboss in sig.) to cut a stump as close to ground level as I could....this is my first attempt...ever. Anyhow, the center of the stump (Ash) had a center that was rotted and filled with dirt (found out the hard way)....dulled the chain fast.....I then got peed off and buried the bar and chain into a big root that I was planning to finish digging out and cut. Needless to say, my bar and chain are an absolute dirty mess. Now that I've calmed down, and gave myself a royal arse kickin'....whats the best way to clean her up ???...power wash ???....the head is fine

Get yourself a bar groove cleaner at your local Stihl dealer, they should have one that has your raker depths on it too. After cleaning the dirt out of the groove in the bar I take the air compressor to the bar and the saw when I get home.

I had a stump that was in the middle of a new trail, the 390 took care of that.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I was using my Stihl ms290 (Farmboss in sig.) to cut a stump as close to ground level as I could....this is my first attempt...ever. Anyhow, the center of the stump (Ash) had a center that was rotted and filled with dirt (found out the hard way)....dulled the chain fast.....I then got peed off and buried the bar and chain into a big root that I was planning to finish digging out and cut. Needless to say, my bar and chain are an absolute dirty mess. Now that I've calmed down, and gave myself a royal arse kickin'....whats the best way to clean her up ???...power wash ???....the head is fine

WD-40

 

[HittinSteel]

Stihl makes an excellent tool for this.....it's marketed as a depth gauge tool, but since it's not "progressive" it's absolutely worthless for the intended application. However, it's tapered at one end and the perfect thickness for effectively cleaning a bar groove.

 

[bogydave]

Like said ; clean it up & it'll be fine.
I save my old bar & an old chain just for stump jobs.
Gonna make a mess of things & be dull & dirty.

I have some old 2 cycle gas that I put in a pan & soak/wash the chain in.

 

[Pallet Pete]

Stihl makes an excellent tool for this.....it's marketed as a depth gauge tool, but since it's not "progressive" it's absolutely worthless for the intended application. However, it's tapered at one end and the perfect thickness for effectively cleaning a bar groove.

Just curious what do you mean by not progressive ? Mine works just fine actually better than the husky one I had. I do agree though it does work decent to clean the bar out in a pinch.

Pete

 

[HittinSteel]

Each time you file the cutters, it changes what the proper raker height should be (as the cutter length shortens). The stihl tool does not compensate for this as you simply set the tool on top of the cutter.

A good example of a progressive raker gauge is the el cheapo carleton file-o-plate.

Here's some "geeky" reading on the subject if you're interested

(broken link removed to http://www.arboristsite.com/chain-sharpening/114624-2.htm)

 

[smokinj]

Each time you file the cutters, it changes what the proper raker height should be (as the cutter length shortens). The stihl tool does not compensate for this as you simply set the tool on top of the cutter.

A good example of a progressive raker gauge is the el cheapo carleton file-o-plate.

Here's some "geeky" reading on the subject if you're interested

(broken link removed to http://www.arboristsite.com/chain-sharpening/114624-2.htm)

Yes, Bob the miller on the other site got me doing that. I don't think its as big of a deal with cross cutting. Once you sharpen enough chains you get a good idea where you need to go.

 

[HittinSteel]

Good point Jay..... I usually use the file-o-plate to set one and then adjust my grinder to that height and hit the rest. Sometimes I just eyeball the first one and go from there.

 

[Thistle]

I give the rakers 2-3 strokes with triangular file every 3-4 sharpenings.A little 'heavy' when cutting softer woods,a lighter touch when cutting or milling White Oak,Honey Locust etc.Apparantly had forgot last time where they were cause when making some heavy cuts in HL last weekend with the 2100,it all but shook the chit outta me! Sure went through that thick stuff fast though,just plant your feet & hang on tight!

Something like this -

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[smokinj]

I give the rakers 2-3 strokes with triangular file every 3-4 sharpenings.A little 'heavy' when cutting softer woods,a lighter touch when cutting or milling White Oak,Honey Locust etc.Apparantly had forgot last time where they were cause when making some heavy cuts in HL last weekend with the 2100,it all but shook the chit outta me! Sure went through that thick stuff fast though,just plant your feet & hang on tight!

Something like this -

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You get a hair cut or what? Oh, that is a strong saw!

 

[Thistle]

You get a hair cut or what? Oh, that is a strong saw!

LOL that's not me.Whoever it is is quite a bit taller,more slender build too.I'm more like a fire hydrant - short & stout Sure is a strong beast...Almost rattle my fillings even.

 

[HittinSteel]

LOL that's not me.Whoever it is is quite a bit taller,more slender build too.I'm more like a fire hydrant - short & stout Sure is a strong beast...Almost rattle my fillings even.

The operator is none other than the famed Mastermind...... someone told me he builds a mean saw

 

[mikefrommaine]

The operator is none other than the famed Mastermind.

I've sold saws to more than one person who has mentioned Mastermind. Famous out here too, I guess.

 

[StihlHead]

Man, if I chewed myself out every time I got a bar and chain dirty from cutting stumps I would be in a straight jacket in a rubber room by now. I save my old tired loops and stupid super-size safety raker RM2 chains for doing that kind of cutting with. Stumps, roots, burl wood (lots of dirt in those) and potentially naily wood are really hard on chains. Not the place for square filed full chisel.

Power washing is overkill. B&C are self-cleaning. Make another cut in some clean wood and you are good to go. WD40 is good for loops if they are stiff or grimed up and I spray loops with WD40 before storing them in quart size baggies. Light oil is better than solvent or water on chain. For removing pitch and tree goo (especially from the saw handles) I use turpentine, which naturally found in many types of trees. When cutting Monterey or Bishop pine the terps fumes in them will just about knock you over. It will not remove paint or fade the saw plastic. I clean bar grooves with a stiff putty knife when I true them.

 

[Danno77]

I think you should get a bucket of used motor oil and just stick the whole thing in there at about 80-90% throttle. Please YouTube. I don't think it should splash around, but I'm not sure and that's why I want you to try first