I guess I need a damper. Dwyer Mark II results

[John Lehet]

So, if I've done this right, my suspicion that my draft is crazy strong seem to be confirmed.

0F exactly outdoors on an accurate weather station off the deck
Stove is coaling, damper shut all the way down on Progress Hybrid, IR thermometer shows exterior of stove pipe about 10 inches up from stove is 225
The liquid is at zero before I plug it into the pipe
Put probe into hole about 30 inches up:

 

[Whitenuckler]

So, if I've done this right, my suspicion that my draft is crazy strong seem to be confirmed.

0F exactly outdoors on an accurate weather station off the deck
Stove is coaling, damper shut all the way down on Progress Hybrid, IR thermometer shows exterior of stove pipe about 10 inches up from stove is 225
The liquid is at zero before I plug it into the pipe
Put probe into hole about 30 inches up:

I'm not sure what that reads? I wonder if you make the zero position somewhere else to the right, you could get a bigger negative reading? I made my own from a look of clear hose so that would not be an issue on mine.

 

[John Lehet]

It seems to read basically off the scale negative! I plug it in and watch it drop below the scale from zero...

 

[John Lehet]

Also emailed this to Woodstock, but the way they are off and on with email these days I'm not sure I'll get an answer from them.

 

[Whitenuckler]

It seems to read basically off the scale negative! I plug it in and watch it drop below the scale from zero...

If you plug the other port in (if you can) it will go the other way on the scale and you already know it's a vacuum

 

[brenndatomu]

Yup, plug the hose in to the right hand port and you'll get a reading on the right side of the scale...and yes, it's still accurate that way, just "labeled" wrong on the meter (for the way we use it)
Make sure the Dwyer is level/plumb...that will affect it if not.
It does appear that you have plenty of draft though!

 

[John Lehet]

Other port

 

[brenndatomu]

I think -0.06" WC is considered within normal for most stoves...

 

[John Lehet]

That last one, stove still coaling with damper shut, stove pipe down to 173 exterior, now up to 8F outdoors

 

[brenndatomu]

That last one, stove still coaling with damper shut, stove pipe down to 173 exterior, now up to 8F outdoors

Oh...yeah take a reading after you reload and the fire is well established, any flue dampers wide open, but the stove damper set to your normal "cruise" setting

 

[Highbeam]

Is your 225 read on single wall pipe? So actually 450 inside? Seems pretty high for an efficient stove in the coaling stage with the intake damper shut.

I always thought you were supposed to read draft strength at high burn. I would expect a big difference from high burn to damper shut with a few coals so you would want to verify that you are comparing apples to apples.

 

[John Lehet]

Yeah, single wall pipe, stove full of coals no flames when I did that. But everything hot. I’m not sure, but I think the Progress with a firebox full of coals is hotter than an iron stove in the same state. Sure feels hot anyway, while my old Jotul was definitely at “better add wood!” When coaling in cold weather.

I’ll try high burn next. I burned 18 pounds of wood 5.5 hours ago and it’s still well over 70 in here, stove still heating enough.

 

[brenndatomu]

I always thought you were supposed to read draft strength at high burn

You can, but it doesn't mean much in this scenario. IME on most chimney it won't change that much anyways.
I would want to know the draft reading when the firebox is up to operating temp and the stove damper is set where it is normally for "cruise"
It may be a bit higher when in high burn after loading, it may drop a bit once you hit coaling stage, but likely not a lot.
If the stove is usually set at a certain spot for most of the burn, that's where you want to check it.