If you had to choose............ would it be Simpson Duravent System or Heatfab Saf-T System
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I would use DuraVent due to the availability of components. Just because I see more local and on-line dealers for the stuff.
Duravent was a good choice for us for exactly the reason that BB has mentioned. I can get it locally in our rural community. When I swapped stoves out for the T6, Tom had a ready supply of new parts to make it work.
stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
not to speak poorly of the heatfab system, but ive worked with simpson for 15 years , they have a superb product. were it me knowing what i know i would use simpson in a heartbeat.
that said i want to make it plain that i do not disparage heatfab , i assume they have a great product line and are fully up to standard with UL 103ht , i just dont know em, but i know simpson cant go wrong with them.
that said i want to make it plain that i do not disparage heatfab , i assume they have a great product line and are fully up to standard with UL 103ht , i just dont know em, but i know simpson cant go wrong with them.
Double lined Duravent is SS on inside but Galvalume outer layer. I have galvanized flashing that is rusted and failing. Will there be condensation in the chimney, that would rust out this liner? Also, I read that 304 is the cheapest, thinnest liner and I should go for 321. I think the Duraliner is 304. Thoughts???
gasavage
Member
I don't know about the others, but ICC Excel has stainless flashing to go with their stuff. I had it installed at my last home, and am going to use it on my current install. Sure it costs more, but I don't have to worry about rust. I hate rust. The stainless package looks sharp too!
I am concerned about the outside layer rusting. I don't think we use flashing on a liner............
I am looking for an insulated SS 6" chimney pipe that is made of ALL stainless steel. My 30+ year old MetalVent is all stainless. Everything I have seen lately is stainless inside and ouside, but galvanized where the ends connect. I have seen these pipes rust the ends out in a few years and have to be replaced. Does anybody know for sure of a brand that is ALL stainless? :roll:
Shane
Minister of Fire
precaud
Minister of Fire
Fit and finish of the HeatFab I installed is superb, better than the Duravent I've seen in the stores. The 304 is fine for wood.
This just stresses me............... I wanted all SS, the guy is coming on Friday to install with the Duravent, which I found out is galvanized. I have spent so much time, doing my homework and finally called the guy to schedule and now am wondering if I should use the duravent. He said it is a 25 year warrranty but then what??????? Who replaces it if it fails before the 25 years?????
woodsie8,
Thank you for posting on liners, and saving me the touble! LOL
Here is a link to the Duravent site, where they mention SS and SS with Titanium.
What's the story here?
http://www.duravent.com/?page=4b.php
Perhaps I've overlooked something, but I don't see a reference to aluminum or galvanized steel, on the page I linked to, at least.
Thanks, all,
Peter
Thank you for posting on liners, and saving me the touble! LOL
Here is a link to the Duravent site, where they mention SS and SS with Titanium.
What's the story here?
http://www.duravent.com/?page=4b.php
Perhaps I've overlooked something, but I don't see a reference to aluminum or galvanized steel, on the page I linked to, at least.
Thanks, all,
Peter
WES999
Minister of Fire
Although I haven’t purchased any chimney pipe yet, from what I have gathered from looking at websites that sell Simson products, the class A pipe is available in either galvanized steel outside or stainless steel outside. The galvanized could be used for the portion inside the attic; while the stainless version would be used for the outside section exposed the weather. I think the stainless version is about $30 more than the galvanized.
http://www.ventingpipe.com/display.cfm?categoryID=420
Here is link that shows both the galv and the SST pipe.
http://www.ventingpipe.com/display.cfm?categoryID=420
Here is link that shows both the galv and the SST pipe.
The installer told me to look at www.duravent.com, the on to "reliner" tab... then go to duraliner. I wanted insulated liner. When I read it, this is what is says..
Also, one installer that did a bid, told me that this liner could not be used, cuz it was for a Class A, not an insert install, but this guy says he knows the difference and this is the one to use, if you want a double lined insulated pipe. I get so frustrated with all the differing info. His bid says this is "all stainless steel pipe" Then I go to where he told me to look it up, and it says galvanized.
No one will put in a block plate, so I am going to try to get him to agree to at least do a soft block plate, since I have the heatilator, so I can utilize a little bit more ot the radiating heat, to come out those holes above the insert. I also think I am going to have him put a layer of wool behind the insert to just save a little more of the heat, instead of letting it heat the brick behind it.
Also, one installer that did a bid, told me that this liner could not be used, cuz it was for a Class A, not an insert install, but this guy says he knows the difference and this is the one to use, if you want a double lined insulated pipe. I get so frustrated with all the differing info. His bid says this is "all stainless steel pipe" Then I go to where he told me to look it up, and it says galvanized.
No one will put in a block plate, so I am going to try to get him to agree to at least do a soft block plate, since I have the heatilator, so I can utilize a little bit more ot the radiating heat, to come out those holes above the insert. I also think I am going to have him put a layer of wool behind the insert to just save a little more of the heat, instead of letting it heat the brick behind it.
seaken
Minister of Fire
First of all, Simpson Duravent manufactures several lines of pipe for various uses. The name Simpson Duravent is not specific enough and this is why there was so much confusion. Some here were not aware that DuraLiner is a double-wall liner system and IS NOT the same type of pipe as the Class A chimney systems branded as DuraPlus or DuraTech.
Yes, it is confusing. In the same way it is confusing how many processors are available for a computer system or how many different varieties of automotive parts exist. But, given enough time and patience you can get it all sorted out. One thing you will notice is that you can't buy Simpson Duravent DuraLiner form every stove shop in your neighborhood. Just as you can't buy your Hampton insert from all the dealers in town. Wouldn't it be nice if you could just choose your favorite dealer and have them sell you just exactly the brands you want?
If your Hampton dealer does not sell DuraLiner they won't install DuraLiner when they come to install your stove. They will sell an alternative, competing brand. Same goes for Heat-fab or Ventinox, or HomeSaver, whatever. You may be able to buy the stove from one shop and the liner from another and hire a sweep or a handyman to do the install of both.
As to "all stainless steel" - the "liner" is all stainless steel. The insulation is "wrapped"with a galvalume (not regular galvanized steel) casing. Heat-fab uses a similar system for insulation. Both are Stainless Steel liners.
You are right to question the galvalume casing and if you are concerned that it may corode you should use a Ventinox or HomeSaver system that does not use galvalume casings. We use HomeSaver with foil faced insulwrap and a stainless mesh casing. But it is harder to install than DuraLiner in general.
Personally, I think you are trying too hard to eek out every bit of heat from your insert. But, that is your prerogative. If you were to actually test it you would probably find that the heatilator ports will be ineffective with your insert in place. A simple block off plate should suffice. If the installers are not inclined to install a block off plate, offer to pay $100 additional for the block-off plate and see what they say. I charge $50 for a block-off plate and I price it in with each liner job and it is included in our labor description. But we had to be convinced it was necessary. For years we didn't think it was needed and never installed one. Maybe they just need convincing.
Sean
Yes, it is confusing. In the same way it is confusing how many processors are available for a computer system or how many different varieties of automotive parts exist. But, given enough time and patience you can get it all sorted out. One thing you will notice is that you can't buy Simpson Duravent DuraLiner form every stove shop in your neighborhood. Just as you can't buy your Hampton insert from all the dealers in town. Wouldn't it be nice if you could just choose your favorite dealer and have them sell you just exactly the brands you want?
If your Hampton dealer does not sell DuraLiner they won't install DuraLiner when they come to install your stove. They will sell an alternative, competing brand. Same goes for Heat-fab or Ventinox, or HomeSaver, whatever. You may be able to buy the stove from one shop and the liner from another and hire a sweep or a handyman to do the install of both.
As to "all stainless steel" - the "liner" is all stainless steel. The insulation is "wrapped"with a galvalume (not regular galvanized steel) casing. Heat-fab uses a similar system for insulation. Both are Stainless Steel liners.
You are right to question the galvalume casing and if you are concerned that it may corode you should use a Ventinox or HomeSaver system that does not use galvalume casings. We use HomeSaver with foil faced insulwrap and a stainless mesh casing. But it is harder to install than DuraLiner in general.
Personally, I think you are trying too hard to eek out every bit of heat from your insert. But, that is your prerogative. If you were to actually test it you would probably find that the heatilator ports will be ineffective with your insert in place. A simple block off plate should suffice. If the installers are not inclined to install a block off plate, offer to pay $100 additional for the block-off plate and see what they say. I charge $50 for a block-off plate and I price it in with each liner job and it is included in our labor description. But we had to be convinced it was necessary. For years we didn't think it was needed and never installed one. Maybe they just need convincing.
Sean
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