Inexpensive (cheap) stove suggestion

[xpertpc]

Hello everybody,
New to wood heating and was kinda forced into it by not having any other heat source available except an old Ashley burner about 20+ years old - just an old gray box with most of the fire brick missing in the back.

Due to a job loss I moved into an old drafty house I bought in Western Kentucky 7 years too early from Wisconsin last December, no insulation in walls or attic, that will be remedied in the next few months though. I had 2 electric space heaters which cost me $150 for 13 days of use (I'm an electrician and measured the meter for usage). I bought a full cord of mixed wood mostly hickory and used the better half to keep the house between 40-60 degrees, to get warmer I had to burn small splits ferociously. I wore long johns for 3 months straight.

The area that will be heated is about 1000 square feet ground level, no basement, having no income or job and living off of meager savings and about 2 cords of dried wood and 8 cord more standing "dead" that need to be felled (one 18" tree did such that 2 days ago and ripped my wires and electric meter from the house) the other 5 trees are 36" diameter and 50-60' tall oaks.

Now my question is since I am near only Lowes and nothing else are those $500 stoves worth putting in until I get money? or do I just keep the Ashley until I can afford a nice soapstone unit - the Ashley is about the size of a small chest freezer and is a sealed convection unit with a slide damper control in the front which seems to work good for throttling down the heat for the night ie 4 good sized splits will keep the house at 40 for 8 hours when 20 outside.

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Dune]

Wow, that's harsh. Assuming you are going to do the insulating, I would repair the fire brick in the ashley, and try to find a used vermont castings, or some other good used stove, before I spent a penny on any junk from home depot.

 

[webbie]

Probably not many good used stoves in Western KY.....

To get something pretty decent you have to spend about double that. If you don't have that much, maybe you can get some firebricks and do some basic repair and tune-up on the Ashley and save up for a year. The Lowes and Home Depot and some other places often start clearing out stoves in Jan or so, and you can pick up some deals. The folks here on the board are usually on top of these....so stay tuned.

 

[xpertpc]

Thanks for the info so far, and you're right about not finding anything but a 55 gallon drum for wood burners around here.
Where does a person draw the line on a stove, $500 seems to be bottom line - twice that is much better but thrice is a good thing, when does diminishing returns come into play $2000? I had a buddy in Wisconsin spend $8,000 on a outside wood furnace (lots of wood I guess).

Also if the admins name is Craig I'd say that is a good thing but won't say why because of anonymity. I don't exactly know what fire brick is or if it is available around here but will look into it, thanks for the suggestions.

 

[gibson]

You might be able to get an Englander or maybe a Napoleon on line for under $1000. Ouch! 50* is cold, bro! Good Luck.

 

[sl7vk]

(broken link removed to http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId;=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100157775&N=10000003+90401+501507)

Seems like a viable option to me....

 

[xpertpc]

Dunebilly you are right about the harshness but it is really not so bad once you get a mindset and dress for it, though I'm much older then the years I spent winter camping in the Porcupine mountains west of Ontonagon gracing the shores of Lake superior in January (actually saw blue tinted snow once) or the Canadian border at Lake of the Woods just north of Minnesota.

Though a very seldom cold day in Wisconsin would be 25 below zero ( real temp) the average is 9 degrees and many feet of snow, my coldest outside camping with wind chill was 70 below zero, but that was 30 years ago, my biggest concern is really air conditioning, but still is hard to make breakfast with mittens on, not to mention that porcelain stays at 20 degrees for a long time. Kentucky has an average of 35 degrees (daytime) in winter and 12" of snow all year long (never saw 3" last year)..

gibson thanks for the suggestion and will look into but my guess is shipping would be a deal breaker.

 

[xpertpc]

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId;=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100157775&N=10000003+90401+501507

Seems like a viable option to me....

Yes that is the type of stove I am talking about, do you think they are worth it? I like the looks of it and "wood" look nice in my living room.

 

[N/A N/A]

I used an englander stove model 12FP from Home depot. I think I got it new for around $700. It did me well for a couple years and they make good stoves for the money. If I were to buy an englander stove all over again I would get a larger size for sure. If thats what your looking at you will be fine.

 

[begreen]

You're on the right track. Avoid the bargain basement, non-EPA stoves. For new ones, Drolet, Enviro (Kodiak), Englander (13NC) and Napoleon make respectable low cost stoves that will last.


I believe Lowes sells SummerHeat which is the same as Englander. Just ask here before you buy. The most expensive stove is one that is not right for your home. And while your at Lowes, pick up lots of caulk. The single best bang for your buck is to address the draftiness. Caulk is cheap. Seal up those leaks and it will be money in the bank. If the windows are single pane, make some homemade storm windows with heavy clear plastic mounted to wood frames.

 

[blel]

http://doitbest.com/Wood_+Coal+and+Pellet+Heaters-England's+Stove+Works-model-50-SNC13-doitbest-sku-404725.dib

This is the best price on Englander 13 I have found. No tax and free ship to a Do It Best store neat you. Not a bad deal.
They also have other Englander stoves.

 

[webbie]

Thanks for the info so far, and you're right about not finding anything but a 55 gallon drum for wood burners around here.
Where does a person draw the line on a stove, $500 seems to be bottom line - twice that is much better but thrice is a good thing, when does diminishing returns come into play $2000? I had a buddy in Wisconsin spend $8,000 on a outside wood furnace (lots of wood I guess).

Also if the admins name is Craig I'd say that is a good thing but won't say why because of anonymity. I don't exactly know what fire brick is or if it is available around here but will look into it, thanks for the suggestions.

I'm the boss, that's why my info shows Admin.......but as far as advice, I'm just another monkey on the board.

Given your constraints, I think the diminishing returns come in at about $1000 - in other words, you can get something for that price which is as good as SOME $1500 or $2000, just no Gold Door, twin blowers and filigree.

If you can scratch up the $$, the Englander EPA models are a fine value for that 750 or so....can't touch that with most brands.

If you end up deciding to fix up the old ashley, we can address that in another thread - maybe you can even post some pics.

 

[xpertpc]

Thanks CT, a quick look says there is one inside of fifty miles

 

[xpertpc]

Thanks for the info so far, and you're right about not finding anything but a 55 gallon drum for wood burners around here.
Where does a person draw the line on a stove, $500 seems to be bottom line - twice that is much better but thrice is a good thing, when does diminishing returns come into play $2000? I had a buddy in Wisconsin spend $8,000 on a outside wood furnace (lots of wood I guess).

Also if the admins name is Craig I'd say that is a good thing but won't say why because of anonymity. I don't exactly know what fire brick is or if it is available around here but will look into it, thanks for the suggestions.

I'm the boss, that's why my info shows Admin.......but as far as advice, I'm just another monkey on the board.

Given your constraints, I think the diminishing returns come in at about $1000 - in other words, you can get something for that price which is as good as SOME $1500 or $2000, just no Gold Door, twin blowers and filigree.

If you can scratch up the $$, the Englander EPA models are a fine value for that 750 or so....can't touch that with most brands.

If you end up deciding to fix up the old ashley, we can address that in another thread - maybe you can even post some pics.

You and the others are right, within a few hundred $ why mess around, I don't want to freeze this winter nor do I want to burn wood at a Californians rate (that was cold)
Thanks - can I post pictures here?

 

[begreen]

Yes, you can post pictures here. Here's a link for preparation and sizing:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewannounce/27_2/

Here's a link for how to post a picture on the forum:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/18669/

 

[N/A N/A]

Just as a side note..If you do go with the englander stove from one of those big box stores and you have to pick it up, take out the fire brick. It makes it fifty pounds lighter to get off the back of the truck. To some this might be common sense but it will make your life easier cause they are going to load it with a fork lift and you will not be thinking about how to get it off when you get home. This made the difference between me and another guy unloading it and not being able to unload it at all.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Wow, that's harsh. Assuming you are going to do the insulating, I would repair the fire brick in the ashley, and try to find a used vermont castings, or some other good used stove, before I spent a penny on any junk from home depot.

easy now dunebilly , i happen to build the units you referred to at home depot. read some reviews and threads before you go pontificating on my product line if you would please.

inexpensive , yes , cheap? not by a long shot both epa certified woodstoves that depot features are below 3.0 gph , the larger , the 30-nc is below 2.0 at 1.63 gph making it the cleanest burning large firebox ( greater than 3.0 CF) unit available on the market regardless of price. i'll put that unit up head to head with whatever the industry can throw at it... and come out ahead.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

as for our new friend in western KY , gimme a shout if you need any questions answered about the ashley , ive seen quite a few and am fairly familiar with the brand

 

[Todd]

Wow, that's harsh. Assuming you are going to do the insulating, I would repair the fire brick in the ashley, and try to find a used vermont castings, or some other good used stove, before I spent a penny on any junk from home depot.

easy now dunebilly , i happen to build the units you referred to at home depot. read some reviews and threads before you go pontificating on my product line if you would please.

inexpensive , yes , cheap? not by a long shot both epa certified woodstoves that depot features are below 3.0 gph , the larger , the 30-nc is below 2.0 at 1.63 gph making it the cleanest burning large firebox ( greater than 3.0 CF) unit available on the market regardless of price. i'll put that unit up head to head with whatever the industry can throw at it... and come out ahead.

Impressive numbers indeed Mike, but there are others that are cleaner burning with large fireboxes like the VC Defiant at 3.2 cu ft firebox with a .80 gph. I believe Blaze King is also real close. But as far as best bang for your buck, it's hard to beat Englander.

 

[BrotherBart]

Impressive numbers indeed Mike, but there are others that are cleaner burning with large fireboxes like the VC Defiant at 3.2 cu ft firebox with a .80 gph. I believe Blaze King is also real close. But as far as best bang for your buck, it's hard to beat Englander.

Take out the cats in those two and test them again. :lol:

 

[Todd]

Impressive numbers indeed Mike, but there are others that are cleaner burning with large fireboxes like the VC Defiant at 3.2 cu ft firebox with a .80 gph. I believe Blaze King is also real close. But as far as best bang for your buck, it's hard to beat Englander.

Take out the cats in those two and test them again. :lol:

Ok, but then Englander has to take out it's baffle and tubes to be fair. :lol:

 

[xpertpc]

Thanks for all the information, did some checking and if I were to get a stove the Englander30 would probably be the one for cost and availability. Mike I see from your email address that you work for Englander, so I went to their website and downloaded the install manual and I am covered for a drop in replacement. The Ashley stove I have is a model C-60F sn 2382 and is called a "Solid Fuel Room Heater".

I have been doing a lot of reading here are found a few discouraging comments and remarks dealing with having to get a stove up to a certain burn temperature to make it efficient which then overheats the house, I like 65 degrees all year - does that mean I have to open doors and windows?

I lived in St.Petersburg Florida from 85' to 90' and moved back to Wisconsin because of the heat. Moved to Kentucky for retirement this year because of the mild winters and low cost of living - my property taxes are only $17 a month, I may have miscalculated the excessive heat in the summer though which is the primary reason why I'm doing some super insulation.

 

[KeithO]

Stopped in at the local Menards today to get a pair of ratcheting tie down straps. They had the 2000 sq ft steel plate stoves (Century - Canadian I think) for just over $700. The smallest (1000 sq ft) was about $380. This is not the chinese cast iron junk. They are welded plate EPA certified stoves. The plate may be thinner than some of the better stoves, but they will still last several years.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Stopped in at the local Menards today to get a pair of ratcheting tie down straps. They had the 2000 sq ft steel plate stoves (Century - Canadian I think) for just over $700. The smallest (1000 sq ft) was about $380. This is not the chinese cast iron junk. They are welded plate EPA certified stoves. The plate may be thinner than some of the better stoves, but they will still last several years.

the century non-cat epa units are respectible units , and though the company which owned century is canadien , i believe the units were manufactured in huntington indiana. im using the past tense as the century wood line is owned by the same conglomerate which owned VC and they are in financial dificulty. this isnt the stove's fault, i have in laws who have century units and are quite happy with them.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Thanks for all the information, did some checking and if I were to get a stove the Englander30 would probably be the one for cost and availability. Mike I see from your email address that you work for Englander, so I went to their website and downloaded the install manual and I am covered for a drop in replacement. The Ashley stove I have is a model C-60F sn 2382 and is called a "Solid Fuel Room Heater".

I have been doing a lot of reading here are found a few discouraging comments and remarks dealing with having to get a stove up to a certain burn temperature to make it efficient which then overheats the house, I like 65 degrees all year - does that mean I have to open doors and windows?

I lived in St.Petersburg Florida from 85' to 90' and moved back to Wisconsin because of the heat. Moved to Kentucky for retirement this year because of the mild winters and low cost of living - my property taxes are only $17 a month, I may have miscalculated the excessive heat in the summer though which is the primary reason why I'm doing some super insulation.

sounds more like the 13 than the 30 would do the trick , especially with a little caulking as suggested , especially since you are looking for 65F not necessarily 75. as for the ashley biggest thing pull the bricks, look closely for cracking just above the bricks and around the retainers, check baffle for warpage and look closely around the flue collar if its one of the models with a welded on collar. obviously make sure all gasketing is serviceable as well as that will let in too much air and the stove will blast through wood way too fast.