Insert i3100 or Summit

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crepitus

Member
Oct 24, 2017
44
North NJ
I need to make the decision in the next day or so as the install is next week. i was set on the Regency until I called around today and can get a PE for around 500 cheaper. It would be mail ordered as opposed to buying local. I also saw all the praise on the site and I kind of like to looks of the PE better, but have also read that it blows through wood. Any pros/cons between the 2? It will be going in a 2400sqf colonial.
 
Lots of Summit owners here. Wood consumption is pretty normal. However, if the house leaks heat rapidly and the stove is being asked for more heat, it will burn more wood. Hogwildz has a Summit insert that he has done some good writeup on.

I'm surprised you are getting a better price on a Summit Insert shipped than local. Is it being shipped from WA state? Have you tried a few different dealers?
 
Any stove will blow though wood depending on how you burn it and what you burn.
I get excellent times with the Summit, loading 2x per day approx every 12 hours during 24/7 burning season, sometimes more depending on outside temps, wind etc.
Shoulder season can easily add another 4 hours or so between loads, if I load a second at all. I usually will load in evening then leave it be till next evening in the shoulder seasons.
Which body Summit is it? The newer C body?
Not sure how you are getting it mail order, as PE does not sell their stuff mail order as far as I know.

Excess wood consumption is nothing I am aware of. Of course there are always a few that feel the need to feed the shat out of a stove, then complain about mega amounts of excess coals. But this can happen with any stove when loaded with impatience.
 
It is a new stove so can I assume that it is the latest version? If not how can I tell? It's not mail order but the dealer will ship it.. Only a few hours away.
 
It is a new stove so can I assume that it is the latest version? If not how can I tell? It's not mail order but the dealer will ship it.. Only a few hours away.
The easiest way to tell is:

A body: No cast ash lip, it is a stamped steel with trim pc, single side blower. On right side looking at front of stove.
B body: Cast fancier ash lip, dual (right & left) blowers Both A & B have opening between upper cast plate and bottom of top shroud, where the heated air exits from blower(S).
C body: No gap between the upper plate and bottom of top shroud. Heated air exits below top plate.
 
No its being shipped from a NY dealer, so not tax and its about 300 cheaper then the Regency.

how did you get something from NY without tax? we tax everything but the air you breathe here, but we're working on that as well. As to your question about if it will chew through wood. there are a few things to factor in for that, house insulation is a big factor, also look into a block-off plate and maybe insulating the space its going into if the chimney is on an exterior wall.
 
Choose the one you want. Both are good.
 
I went with the summit. It is a C body.

I have a question about the block off plate.. I can't understand how a thin piece of metal can do anything other then hold the insulation up.
 
I went with the summit. It is a C body.

I have a question about the block off plate.. I can't understand how a thin piece of metal can do anything other then hold the insulation up.
Congratulations. An insulated blockoff plate will keep more heat around the insert. That will mean more heat convected into the room from the insert.
 
The block off plate if made to fit tightly to the masonry around the perimeter of the plate & sealed with silicone, and sealed around where the liner goes through with rope gasket, will contain the heated air to the house, and not up the old flue to be lost through the masonry to the wild blue yonder.
Tight block off plate and tight upper top plate makes for less loss of heated air, and cold drafts downward.
 
If you don't mind me asking... How much did you pay for the summit shipped to your door? I'm thinking about installing one on the other side of my house..
 
The block off plate if made to fit tightly to the masonry around the perimeter of the plate & sealed with silicone, and sealed around where the liner goes through with rope gasket, will contain the heated air to the house, and not up the old flue to be lost through the masonry to the wild blue yonder.
Tight block off plate and tight upper top plate makes for less loss of heated air, and cold drafts downward.
Again I am having a hard time understanding this but if you insulate the entire area above the stove well is the 12 gauge piece of metal going to make a difference?
 
not having an insert i can't answer with 100% certainty but at the very least it will hold in all that insulation and keep any stray fibers from blowing around inside your house, i read on here quite often how inserts are more dependent on blowers to move hot air.
 
Again I am having a hard time understanding this but if you insulate the entire area above the stove well is the 12 gauge piece of metal going to make a difference?
12 ga? 26 ga would be fine. There is a layer of insulation above this metal. The plate acts as a solid barrier prevent insulation and dust from falling down and if sealed on the edge with silicone a vapor barrier that stops hot air from convecting through the somewhat porous insulation and gaps around the edges.
 
Simple, insulation is not an air barrier, does not stop air flow. A plate does. And at worst, is a fire barrier added safety feature.
 
Here she is. It was warm yesterday. Perfect for the burn in fire with all the windows open. I cut my wood to 18" thinking I could load it NS but they dont really fit that way. I guess I need 16"?
 

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Nice looking install there. Looks good burning. Will there be a hearth extension going in to get the required 16" in front of the stove door? Given the high hearth all that should be required is ember protection.
 
Nice looking install there. Looks good burning. Will there be a hearth extension going in to get the required 16" in front of the stove door? Given the high hearth all that should be required is ember protection.
Got a rug coming. Hope it passes inspection with it otherwise I will get a hearth pad.
 
The hearth extension needs to be permanent from an inspection standpoint. Rugs are too easy to move around. The extension can be secured by a couple screws and could be removable in the spring if desired.

Note that yesterday I had a big ember pop out about 22". It landed on the hearth rug that is there for the cat and beyond the 16" of tiled hearth. The ember made a nice singed spot on the hearth rug. This stuff happens, often when least expected.
 
If that's a Summit, 18" is no problem. You can rest the splits on the boost manifold plate.
 
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If that's a Summit, 18" is no problem. You can rest the splits on the boost manifold plate.

Hey Hog!
Which do you like better the a/b body or the C?
Does the C convect as well as A/B?