Insert or stove for very small fireplace?

[mattwla]

Hi everyone thanks for stopping by.

I'd like to use my small home's small fireplace for heat, rather than my current oil setup. I've visited a couple local woodstove shops and have gotten mixed ideas about what is possible given my small fireplace. The consensus so far is, a small insert could work if it sticks out a bit, and a small woodstove might work with a hearth extension. Sadly these sellers can't confirm these options would work given the models they have.

I thought I would ask here too, maybe there is a little known model of stove/insert that would be perfect? Image below with measurements.

Thanks again!

-Matt

 

[begreen]

How large of an area will the stove be heating? How tall is the chimney above this fireplace?

PS: Welcome and thanks for the full dimensions of the fireplace. That helps. What is the depth at the lintel level? What is the distance from the hearth to the underside of the mantel?

 

[mattwla]

How large of an area will the stove be heating? How tall is the chimney above this fireplace?

PS: Welcome and thanks for the full dimensions of the fireplace. That helps. What is the depth at the lintel level? What is the distance from the hearth to the underside of the mantel?

Thanks for the welcome and followup questions!

The house is about 850 square feet, we would like to heat that area if possible - but heating the living area which is about half that would be ok too if 850 isn't possible.

I'm attaching some more measurements I took, let me know if you need anything else.

For chimney height, I will be cleaning my gutter tmrw so can measure then. But for a rough estimate the house is 1 floor typical New England cottage with attic, fireplace is on 1st floor, chimney sticks out maybe a couple feet from attic not including cap. I'll attach a pic of roof too.

Thanks again!

-Matt

 

[begreen]

Sounds like a 1.5 to 2 cu ft insert would do the job. There are several in this size range. The Lopi Answer & Evergreen, Regency i1500, PE Neo 1.6 or Super, Osburn 1700, and Ironstrike C160 Striker come to mind.

 

[mattwla]

Sounds like a 1.5 to 2 cu ft insert would do the job. There are several in this size range. The Lopi Answer & Evergreen, Regency i1500, PE Neo 1.6 or Super, Osburn 1700, and Ironstrike C160 Striker come to mind.

Thanks for the list, I'll give the spec sheets a look. A dealer I went to had the Lopi answer but said it wouldn't fit. I wonder if they just looked at the width of the back of my fireplace - as opposed to the width at the point in which the box would end.

 

[begreen]

The Answer insert is 23 5/8" wide, 20" tall and 14 1/4" deep. Measure the width of the fireplace at 14" in to see how it fits. If tight, some of the upper back brick can be ground out. The Ironstrike S160 Striker sits a bit more out on the hearth and looks like it will fit. The PE stoves are deeper and probably wouldn't work, nor would the Osburn, but the Regency i1500 should.

 

[mattwla]

The Answer insert is 23 5/8" wide, 20" tall and 14 1/4" deep. Measure the width of the fireplace at 14" in to see how it fits. If tight, some of the upper back brick can be ground out. The Ironstrike S160 Striker sits a bit more out on the hearth and looks like it will fit. The PE stoves are deeper and probably wouldn't work.

Ok, so at 14" deep we have 20" of width. Looks like the taper is pretty significant.

 

[mikey]

I have a fireplace about that size with a Jotul 602, stainless pipe, bottom plate, vermiculite in the void and top plate. It works very well but I had to shorten the legs. My other two fireplaces “very old house” have firebacks and grates called“ grate wall of fire” it really improves the heat output, maybe something like that would work for you.

 

[begreen]

Ok, so at 14" deep we have 20" of width. Looks like the taper is pretty significant.

Take a look at the Ironstrike C160 Striker insert. This insert sits out a bit more on the hearth and only requires 12.5" depth. It's 19.25" tall. I think that can fit.

 

[jstickley]

I have a fireplace about that size with a Jotul 602, stainless pipe, bottom plate, vermiculite in the void and top plate. It works very well but I had to shorten the legs. My other two fireplaces “very old house” have firebacks and grates called“ grate wall of fire” it really improves the heat output, maybe something like that would work for you.

Did you stuff insulation up the chimney where the damper was where liner goes up? I have same stove installed in my small fireplace.

 

[jstickley]

I have a fireplace about that size with a Jotul 602, stainless pipe, bottom plate, vermiculite in the void and top plate. It works very well but I had to shorten the legs. My other two fireplaces “very old house” have firebacks and grates called“ grate wall of fire” it really improves the heat output, maybe something like that would work for you.

Vermiculite stuffed up around pipe from below right?

 

[begreen]

Vermiculite stuffed up around pipe from below right?

Either Roxul or kaowool should be used, and then a damper area block-off plate sealing it.

Block-off plate construction

How to make a block-off plate A block-off plate is particularly helpful with inserts installed in fireplace on exterior walls with exterior chimneys. Without one, the flue liner (which should be insulated) and the stove will try to heat the...

www.hearth.com

 

[Caw]

I also have a serious taper in my fireplace and it's relatively shallow but the opening is a bit bigger itself. I managed to get an Osburn 1600 (predecessor to the 1700) in there as its designed to protrude quite a bit onto the hearth. I heat my entire 1600 sq ft cape with it and I'm right down the road from you.

I feel like I recognize that form you filled out, is that from The Stove Place?

I took the surround off. We like the more natural fireplace look and I feel it works a little better without it. I'm going to get some 8" black stove pipe and surround the liner to improve the aesthetics when I get around to it.

 

[begreen]

The liner connection appears tenuous. It looks like the stove needs a 30º angled stove adapter.

 

[Caw]

The liner connection appears tenuous. It looks like the stove needs a 30º angled stove adapter.

It does, we talked about it in a different thread. I keep a close eye on it year to year. It works fine now but if it ever has issues that's how I intend to fix it.

 

[begreen]

I'd take a proactive stance and fix it before it becomes an issue.

 

[buc74]

The Answer insert is 23 5/8" wide, 20" tall and 14 1/4" deep. Measure the width of the fireplace at 14" in to see how it fits. If tight, some of the upper back brick can be ground out. The Ironstrike S160 Striker sits a bit more out on the hearth and looks like it will fit. The PE stoves are deeper and probably wouldn't work, nor would the Osburn, but the Regency i1500 should.

Our back area was also to small. So some of the bricks was removed/ground to be able to slide it back. This stove is 24" in the rear and a 1.8 box.

 

[Caw]

I'd take a proactive stance and fix it before it becomes an issue.

Fair point. I'll look into doing that once my shoulder heals.

 

[begreen]

Hope it heals well and soon. This would be a good summer project.

 

[mikey]

The vermiculite was fed down the chimney before the top plate was attached

 

[NorthernFireplaceFool]

We did this same thing almost 4 years ago. We put in a Regency CL1250 Alterra. It is flush mount(only option I had with the clearances to original fireplace mantel(100+ year house) and the small fireplace back. We had some of the bricks taken out to fit. We have cut our oil back considerably. It struggles to heat our entire home well(2000sq ft.) but it does a pretty damn good job at trying! It was always a secondary heat but unless it's real cold it will keep the furnace from turning on at night. We also have 9 windows in the living room where this fireplace is. 3 in a bay window and the room next to it has another 9. Does excellent now that I think about it!

 

[stoveliker]

Note that when inserts stick out, you may have to add ember protection in front (as it likely needs to be 16" minimum and the hearth may not be deep enough).

@Caw had to do that too. He adds a metal plate there when burning, removing it in the summer.

 

[Caw]

Note that when inserts stick out, you may have to add ember protection in front (as it likely needs to be 16" minimum and the hearth may not be deep enough).

@Caw had to do that too. He adds a metal plate there when burning, removing it in the summer.

Yeah my stove requires 16" of R >= 1 thermal and ember protection so I use a powdered steel metal plate with Micore 300 underneath. I've moved the protector and checked the hardwood floor temp during a hot burn and it stays below 150 which I'm happy with.

While removing it during the summer is an option I actually just leave it now. It's really heavy and a pain in the ass to move but mostly because the dog loves to lay on the cold steel on a hot day. Its nice and cool on his body. He's a good boy I couldn't take his spot away. I just cover the stovetop with a towel so he doesn't drool on it.

You can compare this pic to the one above for how it looks with the surround on and off. My wife and I prefer the no surround look. We like seeing more of the fireplace and I feel it works a little better. Its also easier to clean.

 

[stoveliker]

You need a bigger hearth extension - or a smaller beast ;-)