Install questions

[twitch]

I'm about half way through the piping of my Tarm Solo 30, and have all the electrical completed. I have a few questions though.

1. Will galvanized stove pipe, to connect the boiler to the SS chimney, work as long as it is at least 24 guage?

2. With the initial fill of the boiler (no storage) is there an additive I should add to remove the O2?

3. My boiler room is in the corner of the garage with about a 45' run of pex to the air handler, which is also in the garage. I'm thinking I should add some antifreeze (glycol based is what I've been told to use), but I'm not sure how much to use (the boiler holds 41 gallons). The garage has 3 1/2" insulation on all walls and ceiling and the garage doors are also insulated.

Thanks in advance

 

[WoodNotOil]

Not sure on the stove pipe.

You should have air vents to get rid of the air (a coin vent on top of the Tarm and one above your expansion tank?). No additive should be necessary.

Glycol would be a good idea in case you leave and don't run the boiler for a few days in the middle of winter. Buy some and there should be directions for proportion.

 

[twitch]

Thanks,
By the O2 I was thinking of the O2 in the water to prevent corrosion. I know O2 barrier pex is needed for this purpose but didn't know if I'd need to treat the water on the initial fill.

 

[WoodNotOil]

Nope, just fill'er up!

 

[pybyr]

a couple of thoughts, in hope that they're helpful-

first- do a double -check on the insurance/ code implications of having it in the garage (do a search here for past discussions of that by others), or decide that what's done is done and let the chips fall- just want to make sure you're aware of that potential dimension

oxygen-wise, as long as you have the proper air elimination devices (and in addition to the vents, you really should include an air scoop or better still one of the microbubble removers, to gradually get dissolved air out) then the heating of the water will, in a relatively short time, drive the oxygen out.

on the "stovepipe" I don't see anything wrong with 24 gauge as long as that meets local codes, if any, and as long as the run is not too long, does not have too many bends, and has the proper overall slope between the Tarm and the chimney

hope that's somewhat helpful

 

[twitch]

pybyr - thanks for the info.

I built a room in the corner of the garage with only outside access to meet the fire code, so I should be OK there.

For vents, I only have an air scoop with the vent cap on my supply side. I probably should have put more vents in, and may have to later on, but I'd probably have to put it in the pex, as I don't have much iron / copper in my system. If I finish putting together my supply / return manifolds tonight, I'll take pics and post them.

The run to the SS chimney is fairly short, but a strange set up because it's actually above the boiler and I'm sure I'll have to put in some type of heat shield on the ceiling. It was an existing chimney.

 

[jebatty]

Although the Tarm manual does not reference this, I would check water pH to make sure it is about 8.5. If pH is below this, could be headed for some acid corrosion.

 

[pybyr]

In regards to PH adjustment of the water in the boiler, can one use baking soda to adjust it up as is done in the storage tanks, or will that cause a buildup in the system and require something else to be used. I am wrapping up my Solo Plus 40 installation this week and I was interested in what could be used to up the PH safely. My supply water is at 6.9 - 7.0 ph.

Dave

speaking of this, what do people do in order to blend things into the water within the boiler system in order to mix in boiler chemicals, adjust PH, etc?

I've heard of the pros having various custom built assembles to pump water into and through, but am trying to think of what's do-able on a more DIY, one-time, low-cost scale

 

[Dave T]

As referenced by MOS I am using 8 way boiler chemical, at a ratio of 1 quart per 10 gallons of the entire boiler system volume..I did a google search of 8 way boiler chemical and found Rector Seal to be the distributer of these chemicals using the 1-800 number on the site they told me all the distributers in New York state luckaly one is in my area $10.00 per quart.. Also I've been told galvinized piping for a chimney off a wood stove gives off a toxic vapor which may be why most wood fired heating products are hooked to black single wall stove pipe..Dave

 

[ManiacPD]

I recommend black single wall stove pipe. I used galvanized on mine. I've had a few hot fires and about 75% of the galvanized area is now dull gray. I've been told I can use muriatic acid on a rag (with appropriate gloves) and remove the rest and paint it black, but I think i'll just change it over to black in the spring.

 

[Medman]

To add chemicals to my system, I have two options. I have a small pump with a short length of garden hose at each end. I can attach the garden hose fitting to a stopcock on my system and pump in from a bucket, etc. I can also remove a plug installed in a Tee at the high point of the system and add water or chemicals via a funnel. Any air introduced will travel downstream to the air separator and be removed.
I also added manual control for the main circulator and a bypass for the danfoss valve, in order to circulate water and chemicals through the system when cold.