Installation 10/12 Roof Pitch

[Smitty75]

New to the forum, lots of good information. I did a lot of searching so far, but wasn't able to get all of the information I need for my installation. I'm in South Carolina, and have had serious trouble finding anyone available to give advice or even come do the install. For reference, I picked up a never used vermont castings resolute acclaim on craigslist, and the owner threw in the installation kit they had bought with the stove which included the stove adapter, 14' of dvl, 36" ceiling box, flashing, and 12' of duraplus. He had purchased everything for his A-frame but never got around to installing it.

Our house is a 1700 SF farmhouse style with open floor plan, cathedral ceilings, and 10/12 roof pitch. The place we picked out for the wood stove installation is in the corner of the living room (2 exterior walls/low end of roof). My original plan was to run the stove pipe directly up to the cathedral ceiling (16') into a ceiling box, and then through the roof. Only issue is this results in a 10.5' chimney pipe. At this point we are concerned with the appearance of that much chimney pipe when combined with the 2 required roof braces. Its on the back side of the house, so really wouldn't see except when in the back yard We thought about moving the stove more towards the ridge, but it will not well with our layout. My question is if anyone has been in this situation and what was decided. Do they make a pipe that can run in the rafter space? That portion of the roof is 2"x10" rafters, so space is pretty limited. If they did, I could run it straight up through the ceiling, 45 it and run it between the ceiling and the roof, and then 45 if out of the roof by the ridge. Seems like my only other options would be to put a chase over the 10.5 feet and pick up class A in place of the duraplus, or just deal with the look of a 10.5' chimney pipe. Any help or recommendations would be appreciated.

 

[DAKSY]

First of all, you can't run a 45 degree Class A in the US. 30 or 15 are the only offsets allowed.
Secondly a 45 would NOT work because you don't have a 45 degree angle with a 10/12 pitch.
12/12 is 45 deg. 10/12 is just under 40 (39.81) degrees.
You BEST bet for drafting is a straight run & it will also use the LEAST amount of total venting.
Another option is to run thru the wall to a tee & THEN vertical - in a chase.
The overall height of the Class A will still be 124" above the roof line,
but that may give you the BEST aesthetics...

 

[Simonkenton]

You didn't say if you were going to install it yourself. If not, I have a guy in Asheville who is really good.

Reece's Kleen Sweep

828-298-2713
ashevillechimneysweeper.com

Ask for Travis Reece. I am up in the mountains west of Asheville and he installed my stove last September. I built the house myself but was scared of the wood stove install, it was up so high. A 12:12 pitch metal roof, way up high it is 16 feet off the ground to get to the edge of the roof.
Tricky install, Travis did a real good job for me.

 

[Smitty75]

First of all, you can't run a 45 degree Class A in the US. 30 or 15 are the only offsets allowed.
Secondly a 45 would NOT work because you don't have a 45 degree angle with a 10/12 pitch.
12/12 is 45 deg. 10/12 is just under 40 (39.81) degrees.
You BEST bet for drafting is a straight run & it will also use the LEAST amount of total venting.
Another option is to run thru the wall to a tee & THEN vertical - in a chase.
The overall height of the Class A will still be 124" above the roof line,
but that may give you the BEST aesthetics...

You are most definitely correct on the roof pitch, I was thinking 12/12. Thanks for the information. I was originally told that duraplus could not be enclosed in a chase which was a major concern considering I already have a significant amount of it, but after looking through their installation manual and talking with a tech is seems possible. Unless I am better off using one of their duratech products for the chimney, seems like I can stick with the duraplus and figure out a chase.

 

[Sawset]

This is what 10.5ft of class A would look like outside, except this is on a 12-12 pitch and in Wisconsin. Its in from the side wall about 6ft. I debated about a chase, because that's a lot of exposed pipe, and it can get cold here. Ends up the draft is fine, backdraft due to cold hasn't been a problem, and the looks seemed to be ok, so the chase issue was dropped. Also with the class A, the bracing required was 5ft from the top, making for only one set of braces.

 

[Smitty75]

You didn't say if you were going to install it yourself. If not, I have a guy in Asheville who is really good.

Reece's Kleen Sweep

828-298-2713
ashevillechimneysweeper.com

Ask for Travis Reece. I am up in the mountains west of Asheville and he installed my stove last September. I built the house myself but was scared of the wood stove install, it was up so high. A 12:12 pitch metal roof, way up high it is 16 feet off the ground to get to the edge of the roof.
Tricky install, Travis did a real good job for me.

Thanks for the contact, will give him a call tomorrow.

 

[Smitty75]

This is what 10.5ft of class A would look like outside, except this is on a 12-12 pitch and in Wisconsin. Its in from the side wall about 6ft. I debated about a chase, because that's a lot of exposed pipe, and it can get cold here. Ends up the draft is fine, backdraft due to cold hasn't been a problem, and the looks seemed to be ok, so the chase issue was dropped. Also with the class A, the bracing required was 5ft from the top, making for only one set of braces.

I think I could live with that, doesn't look nearly as bad as I was thinking. Only issue now is with the duraplus that came with the stove. Looks like I would need 2 supports, one at each 4 ft interval. I doubt that will fly with the wife so may have to check into the duratech. I believe it only requires 1 support at 5'. Either way, thanks for the picture.

 

[Sawset]

I ordered Selkirk piping from:
http://www.dynamitebuys.com/
After doing some investigating and talking to the owner, I ordered and had everything trucked by common carrier to the house. I think he's out of Indiana. That was 7 years ago. I see he still offers the same line of materials.

 

[Smitty75]

Thanks for all the help so far. We have decided to stick with the duraplus we have, and have our builder put up a 9' chase for the 10.5' of chimney we will need above the roof. I've been looking at a lot of the chimney chase posts and still a little unsure on the best construction method. My main concern at this point is how to best seal off the house from the chimney chase. For reference it is a 10/12 roof pitch and cathedral ceiling with no attic. The duraplus manual shows to cut a 14.5x14.5 hole in the roof directly over the ceiling support box framing and push the ceiling support box through the roof surface into the chase. Then it shows to cut the corner edges and fold the overlapping support box over the roof surface and nail in place. It looks like the duraplus then extends out the top of the chase, through a chase cap and storm collar, and finally into the chimney cap. Is this all that is necessary? Seems like something more should be used at the to seal off the house from the chase others that a folded over flaps of the ceiling support box. should I add a fire stop directly above the ceiling support box to better deal off the space? I'm a little confused as the best method. And I apologize for my ignorance in the subject, having not found much specific construction info.

 

[BamaRama]

i think you're asking what insulates the living space from the air inside the ceiling box and chase? I know Selkirk uses a fire proof insulation tucked into the ceiling box. Fire stops are made to use as the pipe transitions through living/occupied spaces.