Installation question

[Niko]

Ok so i might be putting a balze king princess in this spot. Using the same black pipe but with a adapter. The black pipe goes into the chimney with its own dedicated flu so nothing is sharing it. Dont have the money for the class A chimney yet but next year in the spring ill be running that straight up and threw the roof.

for this winter would i loose all the performance on the princess just running it direct into the chimney? Chimney is clean as i clean it every year.

 

[begreen]

That should be a nice improvement. The hearth will need expansion of course and I have to say that wall thimble looks suspect. What material is the pipe passing through and how close is it to the window frame?

 

[Niko]

Yes i have tile for the hearth expansion. The material around the (maybe some type of wood paneling) black pipe not really sure but i will be taking that off for sure, Behind it is the cement block for the chimney. Window distance is 20 inches And ceiling is like 4 feet. Im just curious as this setup is not the new standard. Wiithout class A pipe will the stove lose any burn time or any negative effect on the stove?

 

[begreen]

Yes i have tile for the hearth expansion. The material around the (maybe some type of wood paneling) black pipe not really sure but i will be taking that off for sure, Behind it is the cement block for the chimney. Window distance is 20 inches And ceiling is like 4 feet. Im just curious as this setup is not the new standard. Wiithout class A pipe will the stove lose any burn time or any negative effect on the stove?

There are two important aspects to a good installation, safety and performance. Single-wall connector pipe needs to have 18" clearance from combustibles. The wood paneling represents a hazard due to it's proximity to the hot stove pipe. The chimney could also present a safety hazard depending on its construction and condition. Is it tile lined? If yes, do you know the inside dimension of the flue tile? How tall is the chimney.

 

[bholler]

Dont have the money for the class A chimney yet but next year in the spring ill be running that straight up and threw the roof.

Why not just line your masonry chimney with an insulated stainless liner. It will work as well (other than the elbows) and it wil probably cost allot less. Also you then would not have an unused masonry chimney there

 

[Oldman47]

Why not just line your masonry chimney with an insulated stainless liner. It will work as well (other than the elbows) and it wil probably cost allot less. Also you then would not have an unused masonry chimney there

Read post #1. No money to run a new class A.

 

[bholler]

Read post #1. No money to run a new class A.

Yes i get that but they then go on to say they are going to run a class a next year. I am saying why a class a at all? Begreen has already covered the original question pretty well. The only think i have to add is make sure there is enough masonry where that pipe passes through the wall. Because there rarely is.

 

[Chinneysweep187]

Why not just line your masonry chimney with an insulated stainless liner. It will work as well (other than the elbows) and it wil probably cost allot less. Also you then would not have an unused masonry chimney there

Not probably it definitely will cost way less

 

[Niko]

Why not just line your masonry chimney with an insulated stainless liner. It will work as well (other than the elbows) and it wil probably cost allot less. Also you then would not have an unused masonry chimney there

If i do a liner and run it down the chimney how do i connect it to the black pipe, all the liners i have seen connect direct to the stove themselves. its a single wall black pipe and i should of stated it will be replaced with double wall.

The stove is a 2 year old blave kin princess parlor that im buying for 1600 bucks.

My chimney is clay lined and im not sure of the dimensions yet(but will get, if i had to guess its 8x6)when i cleaned it this year i saw no sines of cracks. The chimney height is 15ft tall and pretty awesome shape as the stove thats thier now was rarley used compared for its age.

So by not putting a liner in or using a class A am i going to kill my burn times? I know its hard to judge and to give a accurate decision. Im just looking for opinions for those that maybe have installed a stove and used a existing clue lined chimney.

I have a king ultra installed downstairs in my house but had to crank her up alot during cold months so the heat can make it upstairs. I did some fans and played with the scenarios and got it to work good. But in the middle of winter my downstairs was 80-90 degrees and upstairs was 68-75. My ideal setup would be have 2 stoves (one up one down)on a very low setting to keep the house around 70. Im in the process of spray foaming my garage ceiling as the the bedrooms above are the coldest. Hence the hotter temp of downstairs to compensate with the cold garage. Sorry to get off topic.

 

[begreen]

The liner terminates at the thimble level with a bottom-capped tee with no snout. The snout is put on thru the thimble hole. The stove pipe joins to the snout.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Chimney-Liner-Installation-Step-By-Step-Guide/

 

[bholler]

We dont have enough info to tell you if it will work well or not. Having a qualified pro out to evaluate things would be a good start

 

[begreen]

Agreed. We can't judge the condition of the chimney.

Is it tile lined? If yes, do you know the inside dimension of the flue tile? How tall is the chimney?

 

[Fake coal burner]

Ok so i might be putting a balze king princess in this spot. Using the same black pipe but with a adapter. The black pipe goes into the chimney with its own dedicated flu so nothing is sharing it. Dont have the money for the class A chimney yet but next year in the spring ill be running that straight up and threw the roof.

for this winter would i loose all the performance on the princess just running it direct into the chimney? Chimney is clean as i clean it every year. Yes you will loose a lot of efficiency if you do it like your picture shows on its side. They go vertical up and down.

View attachment 160409

 

[Niko]

The liner terminates at the thimble level with a bottom-capped tee with no snout. The snout is put on thru the thimble hole. The stove pipe joins to the snout.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Chimney-Liner-Installation-Step-By-Step-Guide/

Begreen that is pretty sweet man thanks! Any way to put icing on the cake and have a video lol? The only part that looks a lil confusing i guess cause i dont have the product in front of me would be getting the tee connection lined up. I didnt know they had those adpaters or tee adapters for the flex liners. Ill check some websites then for prices. Now that You have shown me a new way, may I ask which one is better to use? When i mean better i mean more efficient for better burn times etc. Insulated liner or class A double wall?

First things first tho i will get up on my roof and check the measurement out of the chimney. Ill get back to you guys tomorrow.

 

[begreen]

If you have room for an insulated liner that is the way I would go. Liner companies may have install videos too. Note that the chimney should be completely cleaned first.

 

[Niko]

Thanks man gonna do some homework and report back with my findings!

 

[Michael6268]

Its not bad lining the tee up.
Just drop the liner through the hoop.Two people helps. Once its through, just reach in, line up and tighten the clamp.

 

[bholler]

Its not bad lining the tee up.
Just drop the liner through the hoop.Two people helps. Once its through, just reach in, line up and tighten the clamp.

well most of the time its no big deal every once in a while it is a real pita