Installing a Jotul 602 B need opinions on placement and clearances

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SeanBonham

New Member
Sep 25, 2014
7
Louisville, Ky
Hello all! First time poster, long time lurker.

Picked up a Jotul 602 B a few months back and I am finally getting around to planning the install. I was going to pay a contractor to do this install, but after spending many hours on this forum, I think I can handle it. Using duravent DVL in the house and triple wall through the attic and roof. I bought a kit for the support box roof flashing etc...

I am planning on using 22 gauge sheet metal spaced 1 inch off the wall and 1 inch from the floor. Hearth pad is still being worked out. Most likely 2 sheets of 1/2 inch durrock with 22 gauge sheet metal over the top plus this cast iron base we found.

The problem I am running into is the window near the corner where I am planning to install the stove. With the sheet metal I can reduce my clearances to at least 12 inch from the rear of the stove and 16 from the side with the pipe with go through the top of the stove. The wooden window sill is combustable and I am wondering what you think the safest placement of the stove would be in regards to the window. See pictures on placements. Also adding a picture of what I want my hearth pad and wall shielding to look like.

#1 The back corner of the stove is about 13 inches from the sill.
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#2 I can get the side of the stove about 18 inches or a little more from the sill.
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#3 Maybe can get back of the stove 14 inches from the sill.
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My inspiration:
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The two walls you see will have the spaced sheet metal. The wall with the window will have the shielding from the corner to the window.

something like this great drawing I just made :)
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Thanks in advance for any advice!

Sean
 
It is in the right place. It just takes a little time for somebody with answers to pass through.

Paging @begreen the clearances expert to aisle three.
 
It looks like you could pop rivet or screw on a small box extension to wrap around the window sill where needed. Make a slit in the wall shield to clear the sill by 1". With the diagonal install the front clearances would be fine.
 
I like #1.
 
Late reply here. I used 1/2 durock spaced 1" off the floor and the wall. Made a little shield for the window sill, but I am not very happy with the way it turned out. It's super chunky and obtrusive. I hate to do it, but I might pull it all down... The lady is not liking it...

Wondering what your thoughts on free standing shields are? Something that sits closer to the stove to reduce clearances.



This kind of idea:
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http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...fyo2iRe1IAP_ndFCyaERpmgD8Rc1MwizoYaApjw8P8HAQ

I could buy this one, or make one out of sheet metal or doubled corrugated roofing metal. It would shield the back and sides from the window sill and walls.

Any ideas would be much appreciated!
 
Metal is just as acceptable as Durock as long as it is installed on 1" spacers and open at the top and 1" bottom to permit free airflow behind it. Or consider tiling the Durock for a finished look and a smaller metal cover for the sill. The metal cover can be removed in the off-season. The lady of the house might like to get involved in the tiling project. It can be very creative. If you use metal I would first get approval and let her decide the color it will be painted. Use a good high temp paint. Forest Paint's Stove Bright paint has a range of colors. Be sure to have the top edge of the sheet metal hemmed. Note that if you want to leave it raw metal and not paint it, copper is pricey, but a very attractive classic style. Stainless steel could be used for a more contemporary look.

paint colors: http://forrestpaint.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/SBCC-1a.pdf

I'd also considering repainting the stove with the same product. Metallic Black is a common stove color. If you do decide to paint be sure to do a good prep job on the stove first by going over it with coarse, then fine steel wool. Vacuum clean, then wipe first with a tack rag, then with alcohol or lacquer thinner. Paint outdoors or in a very well ventilated space like a garage. The fumes from this paint are very strong and can do brain damage.
 
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Thanks for the reply!

Is there any issue if it is not attached to the wall but free standing more than 1" from the wall? The one in picture above is meant to be free standing. Its 24 gauge and would provide enough coverage.
 
It should be attached to make it permanent, even if removed in the summer. It needs to have that 1" airspace at the bottom and attaching it will prevent it from tipping over or moving if a pet (or human) accidentally knocks it.
 
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